• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Where do i find parts that interchange cheaper?

dartyppyt

Husqvarna
Pro Class
Thought I would start a thread on where to find parts that interchange alot cheaper.

This will help alot of us restore our old vintage bikes with alot less money.

Example.

For stainless steel cheese head screws.You know them ones with the round heads/slot to hold on the chain buffer pads, etc.... I size them up through FASTENAL. I bought several in different sizes/ lengths for under $10.

http://www.fastenal.com/web/product...ipcode=&filterByStore=&r=~|categoryl1:"600000


For heim joints in top eye of piggy back ohlins and both eyes in ohlins ITC's. I use part number GE12E through BEARINGS DIRECT. Currently they are $5.75 each.

http://bearingsdirect.com/GE..ES-Series-Metric-Plain-Ball-Bushing-Bearing.html

For Metric O rings (Swing arm, shock heims, etc.....) I use THE O-RING STORE. Last time I ordered swing arm o rings, they were $.50 each.

http://www.theoringstore.com/index....th=368&zenid=9b2212705d20383faca0e97855476e58

For crank seals, remove old seal/record info on seal (size and type) and contact METRIC SEALS, INC. Phone # (317) 896-3555 also, they have online catalog as well. Last time I price the ignition side seal, was like $10. They also have better than original seals, as well. Have fork seals, copper washers, and o rings. I even sized up kicker and shifter seals.

http://www.metric-seals.com/catalog/AdvancedWebPage.aspx?CategoryText1=Shaft Seals&SBCatPage=&FromPage=1&sbt=

These are just some ideas to get started and you may have some better resources at better prices.

Anything:

Tires (Especially 17 inchers)

Bearings

Cables

Magura Levers

Throttles

You name it put it down along with part number, size, contact info, website, brand and you name it.

Even if you find a sale on something.
 
Here is another couple of things. For tank/air box grommets. Locate a brass snap handle drain plug (They are used on lawn rollers/tank sprayers) for a couple of bux. You want the 5/8" size. Unscrew the brass parts and you have one. I also am using some push in grommets from McMaster Carr. I stack washers the same length I need in a vise (to get a straight edge and cut the length off with a sharp razor blade. I got a whole bag of 25 for $14. The head is. A shade bit smaller but I don't think someone is going to get a ruler out and measure. The brass snap handle drain plugs are same size heads. I got those @ Menards part # 84044.

Also, if you can match up nylon loc nuts ( Same style, flange and etc..... ) but they have white nylon in them. Get the blue Sharpie permanent marker and just color the nylon part. Matches perfect.
Fastenal seems to be a good walkin source matching stuff up.

When ever you install your chain tensioner spring and don't want to scratch your paint job up, even after your spring is installed. Use a piece of clear vinyl hose to push on over the spring arms.
 
My bike's a late vintage left kicker...

Boyesen 616 power reeds, cheapest I've found them is on Amazon.com.
Some tuning required, performance match for part #16-11-864-01.

The fuel petcock can be replaced by an Acerbis Universal Petcock, part #2044230997
 
Chain Tensioner roller, i just got a piece of solid nylon tube and ol mate wacked it in the lathe and turned in the bearing carriers and the lip edge, all good.
 
Chain Tensioner roller, i just got a piece of solid nylon tube and ol mate wacked it in the lathe and turned in the bearing carriers and the lip edge, all good.
Skateboard wheel is working good on mine, so far. I need a good long, fast ride to see if the bearings can hold up. The wheel is tough enough- wont be any issues there.
 
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