125-200cc Where all the Sm125s Buffs at?

[Luxe]

Hi All!

Firstly really sorry if these have been asked before but I've searched for Sm125s threads and there are about 8. All pretty much of no help to me at all.

Info about me. I'm a noob. I know nothing. Completely new to SM style bikes. Not completely new to 2 strokes as I have owned a 1997 Suzuki TS for a few years. Mine was a complete machine. Air cooled, never broke, never let me down and didn't have any problems at all.

Now I own a 2011 Husky Sm125s, And I feel like i have a multitude of questions just blazing about my head. So I thought id give it a go at voicing them here.

1) What bike (If any) does the Sm125s share parts with. Whenever I look up trying to get aftermarket or slightly custom parts for my bike I get... NOTHING. Literally nothing. I see loads of things for the WR125, like custom grips, and brake/clutch levers, pegs, tail tidy, hand guards, mirrors, chain guides and engine guards etc... but nothing for the sm125s.
I just want it to feel like my bike and look original. (I mean i know it will be anyway, trying to find huskies in the UK is like trying to find rocking horse poop) but I just want something more.

2) What engine oil, two stroke, and coolant should I run? And any ideas on where i can buy this from in the UK? I want to flush out and change all this before going for a proper ride.

3) I noticed that my Husky does not have a tachometer. Or it does and I have not found it yet. The dash only has one button on it. Does anyone have a manual for this? Or can tell me how to use it to its full potential. Or is it literally one click and hold to reset mileage etc..

4) There are also various parts and items that look slightly weathered. Just nuts and bolts holding plastics on, reservoir covers, bolts in the disks, and just general cosmetics. Id like to clean all these up or replace them. Whats the best way to do this?

5) My main worry at the moment is spokes. They are Aluminium and have corrosion on them. Is it possible to clean them up and coat them with something? Lacquer them to stop them oxidizing again?

Thanks in advance for your help.

Luxe

 

[R-J van Hulst]

welcome to the forum

there are a few on it here with a sm125 and most of them from the UK

Question 1: for non engine aftermarket parts all what you can fit on a CR WR WRE from 2009 and younger will fit on yours.

lots of stuff for the older models (till 2000) will also fit

Question 2: where you get these fluids in the UK I would not know precisely yet engine oil 10W40 (motor oil will do) you might look for scooter engine oil as that works in my bikes very well.

coolant the same as that you fill in a car (probably you can buy that at every petrol station) the radioactive green stuff or any other color (mine is purple).

2 stroke oil you have to look what is available at your place (when I lived in Europe I used Castrol and was content with it) the guys from UK on this forum will probably chime in to point out what works for them.

Question 3: I have a owners manual and a work shop manual in PDF of your bike (PM me Its a big file)

Question 4: what works fine is sand blasting them
it gets a all even matte finish if all are done like that, it looks pretty cool

question 5: as above or use some weak acid (lemon juice or vinegar) to clean it after that you can use wax to protect it from oxidizing again but when you drive in the winter and salt is being used on the roads its pretty aggressive for anything that get's in contact with

Robert-Jan

 

[Luxe]

welcome to the forum

there are a few on it here with a sm125 and most of them from the UK

Question 1: for non engine aftermarket parts all what you can fit on a CR WR WRE from 2009 and younger will fit on yours.

lots of stuff for the older models (till 2000) will also fit

Question 2: where you get these fluids in the UK I would not know precisely yet engine oil 10W40 (motor oil will do) you might look for scooter engine oil as that works in my bikes very well.

coolant the same as that you fill in a car (probably you can buy that at every petrol station) the radioactive green stuff or any other color (mine is purple).

2 stroke oil you have to look what is available at your place (when I lived in Europe I used Castrol and was content with it) the guys from UK on this forum will probably chime in to point out what works for them.

Question 3: I have a owners manual and a work shop manual in PDF of your bike (PM me Its a big file)

Question 4: what works fine is sand blasting them
it gets a all even matte finish if all are done like that, it looks pretty cool

question 5: as above or use some weak acid (lemon juice or vinegar) to clean it after that you can use wax to protect it from oxidizing again but when you drive in the winter and salt is being used on the roads its pretty aggressive for anything that get's in contact with

Robert-Jan

Thank you for the reply man. Ill message you.

 

[juicypips]

The fluids you can get from any motorfactors, oil try a bike shop i run a wr360 on putoline mx5 two stroke oil, silkoline comp 2 is also very good.

Oil you can run atf dextron 2 or any oil suitable for wet clutches i would stick with 10w40 as stated but im using 0w40 same thickness just takes no time too warm up.
Parts are as stated bar the engine thats an electronic pv set up i think.
Gazamacfaz seems too know his stuff so does jonnyboy theyre uk based too with 125's.

Where you located? Am in gloucester if your local be good too meet others.
Welcome too the fold

 

[Luxe]

The fluids you can get from any motorfactors, oil try a bike shop i run a wr360 on putoline mx5 two stroke oil, silkoline comp 2 is also very good.

Oil you can run atf dextron 2 or any oil suitable for wet clutches i would stick with 10w40 as stated but im using 0w40 same thickness just takes no time too warm up.
Parts are as stated bar the engine thats an electronic pv set up i think.
Gazamacfaz seems too know his stuff so does jonnyboy theyre uk based too with 125's.

Where you located? Am in gloucester if your local be good too meet others.
Welcome too the fold

Thanks for the reply man. Sorted all the fluids today. Went with 10w40. Got some all season coolant and some castrol 2stroke.
Sweet. Definitely going to look for some parts soon.
I'm London area. Would be awesome to meet up with some other sm125s riders!

 

[R-J van Hulst]

The Power valve is mechanically actuated on the later models (from 2009 onward)

oil pump is electrical

and there is a rev meter on the original cockpit arrangement

Robert-Jan

 

[Luxe]

The Power valve is mechanically actuated on the later models (from 2009 onward)

oil pump is electrical

and there is a rev meter on the original cockpit arrangement

Robert-Jan

Thanks again for your Help Robert. Legend.
Is the rev meter access shown in the manuals?

Another thing i need to replace is one of the number plate screws and sleeves. I seem to have had one fall out on me!
I guess a normal screw would do but would like to get an original if possible.

 

[R-J van Hulst]

Hi Luxe

both documents are send to you.

Robert-Jan

 

[R-J van Hulst]

Rev meter is explained on page 205 of the workshop manual.

Normal screw would do (have a look in the parts manual page 82) assuming that metric fasteners are an easy thing to get in the UK.

Robert-Jan

 

[gazmcfaza]

I know a bit, not very much about the later bikes, but first off I'd recomend you disconect that oil pump and mix oil in with the petrol, use 95 normal fuel and between 30/ 40 to one premix, if your oil pump goes like mine did you will wreck your engine, potentially lower end as well s the top and it's bloody expensive since a cylinder alone new cost 500 quid. Disc bolts, piss easy, get some granville loctite at halfords, then go on racedisc.co,.uk, they have uk made discs to fit your bike plus the bolts to fit [they're countersunk so they don't hit the caliper as wheel spins], genrally you can use pitbike or chinese made stuff on the bike, like brake levers, clutch perches, mirrors, radiators get chinese ones for under 70 quid, mine have gone on three years with zero issues, also coolant hoses, again ebay, you can use cr/ wr ones, they're the same apart from a thermostat tube[ silly to fit one anyway tbh,you need to have a working water pump!] you should have a wire hanging down attaching to the cylinder head on a golden bolt, pull that off and electrical tap it up, that should activate your water pump as son as the engine starts spinning. Piston kits, if you don't warm bike up before riding, get a cast piston like mitaka, gain ebay, if you warm it up before every ride and it's a play bike, get a forged piston, more expensive but less likely to kill bottom end if you pop the motor. Husky sport do most parts off the shelf, they're in cheriton, call up reece for parts. Oil for the engine, I use this with no problems and it's cheap ish too if you get the big container
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/EXOL-HIGH...KE-OIL-5-LT-/350586223232?hash=item51a0913a80

Coolant, I use on called ''triple x'' then just mix it up half water half coolant, cheap stuff but just change it regularly, really easy to do

I'm shit with electrics, especially the newer bikes, but I know the engine sends a charge from the left hand side /alternator thing up some wires into a rectifier, changes that current into battery current to keep it stored up, there's a guy on ebay in poland who sells genuine parts from the husky factory that might have stuff for you, like this thing might or might not fit, check out his items http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/291134107778?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

plastics, cheap, ebay search for UFO or MD racing products, they have stuff normally ready, bolt wise I just go to wilko or a building shop where they have loads in packets, nothing has fallen off to date! Not even me! Oh also, don't let these engines blip down through the gearbox like an older 2 stroke or any 4 stroke, you see loads of videos of people just letting the engine die down with it's revs, can't do that with these, you need to blip the throttle often to give it a good supply of oil, like a proper mx bike rider would[ that's what you tell plod when he pulls you ok? Sorry officer my engine needs lube I do apologise!] Also don't hold it flat out for too long like top speed, they're not designed for it, the sm is more of a hooligan get up to 60, drop down again, get back up again machine, think of it like an old granny hooker suddenly being tasered, she'll take abuse but at some point soon she's got to drop back down again

 

[gazmcfaza]

also go to venhill for clutch cables, they make one for the sm and wre, plus you can choose the colour!

 

[gazmcfaza]

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TDbdWc4978k
if you want to see my bikes

 

[juicypips]

Gaza the first thing i would do is cut them bars down by 2" then cut some more off!
And what was the bloke in the golf trying to do intimidate you to fall off??? Wtf just kick his wing mirror off next time.
Seriously i dont condine road rage but that was a good example of english car drivers.

 

[gazmcfaza]

I might cut them down but it's part of the challenge to get past everyone round here is complaining it's taken them two hours to get down that road, i did it in two minutes!!wahahaha! oh the golf was tailgating me before the roundabout, then see in vid he flashes his left indicator for a split second then moves across a lane? I reckon he realised he wanted to go left into the lane I was in, but was forced to go straight on cos he couldn't go left or he'd hit me, then decided it was my fault for his mistake so thought he'd shout something in his scary shorts

 

[juicypips]

I cut my bars cus i realised i hold the grips with my thumb against the donut bit leaving an inch or so unused to the outside of my hands... Cut them off grips cut down boom full speed filtering.