• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

What part/part number is this?

gandalf

gandalf

Husqvarna
AA Class
So, as a couple of you may already know, I finally got around to checking my valves today and since they were in spec, I wish I hadn't. After putting the valve cover on and having it leak, I took it off again to inspect and since it looked good, I put it back on and over tightened the front right bolt on the cover and assume I stripped out the U shaped piece in the pic. I'm going to call Ferracci on Tuesday and see if they can just fix it for me, but I'd like to know the name and part number before hand. I am assuming I'll need to ask them to replace it and put on a new valve cover gasket too. I've got the part numbers for the gasket, new screw(just in case) but not the part the bolt goes into because the pdf doesn't have it labeled. Does anyone know? EDIT: I annotated the pic, but apparently that didn't stick when I exported the pic to a jpg. The part I am talking about is between 3 & 4 and is what the valve cover bolts thread into.
TEValveCover.jpg
 
It's a camshaft cap, usually is set up and line bored to the bottom half which is the head so that they are matched sets with the proper clearance for the shaft. I have never seen one that could be ordered off of a Japanese microfiche, but Husky might do things differently.:excuseme: If it were me, I'd take that little piece off and have a good insert put in it.
 
? Where to do that though? My thinking is just take it to my husky dealer which is not usually my first instinct, but I really want to make sure it's done right and hopefully in time for the DS ride I'm supposed to do next Sunday.
 
Too bad you are way back east. I know lots of good local automotive machine shops and some motorcycle repair places out here that would do a good job, although I keep the tools and inserts to do that sort of thing handy in my toolbox in the garage.
 
I have a friend with a very small shop and he's saying he can fix it with a helicoil. Sound like the right thing to do?
 
Have your friend take care of it. Don't tighten the little cover bolt much more than about 4 or 5 foot pounds though. You can tighten the camshaft cap bolts to about 8 foot pounds max usually. But, I suppose you have a manual with torque values for those parts....
 
I definitely need to be careful. Still concerned though because I only gave it a little more because it was good and snug but I was able to watch oil leak out about an inch from the right on the front. The gasket looks and feels good but maybe I should try and get another? Maybe I'll try the helicoil and then carefully tighten down in an X pattern in even steps.
 
You dealer is closed until Tues, but maybe some of them check the emails on the weekend? Send an email and hope for a reply before Tuesday?
 
Coffee;35697 said:
You dealer is closed until Tues, but maybe some of them check the emails on the weekend? Send an email and hope for a reply before Tuesday?
Click to expand...

Good idea. I think given I really want to make sure this is done by the weekend so I can make the DS ride on Sunday. I'll probably call both my friend and email the dealer tomorrow to cover my bases.
 
Email sent. Hopefully they'll do what they can for me since I bought my bike there, have been a great customer for many things, and have dealt with parts issues since last summer.
 
I'm not sure if they only go on one way, but just in case, if you plan on removing the cap yourself, mark one side with a "sharpie" cap & base, so you know exactly how it goes back together :thumbsup:
 
Dirtdame;35672 said:
It's a camshaft cap, usually is set up and line bored to the bottom half which is the head so that they are matched sets with the proper clearance for the shaft. I have never seen one that could be ordered off of a Japanese microfiche, but Husky might do things differently.:excuseme: If it were me, I'd take that little piece off and have a good insert put in it.
Click to expand...

Smart Lady here. Shes totally right, you have to buy the complete head to get the cap.

Go for the Helicoil. :thumbsup:
 
I guess that's why they don't list a part number for it. I'm planning on pulling it out tonight as I have a friend that says he can help with a helicoil. Thanks again Mimi and everyone else too!
 
And since the cap holds the cam in place, before removing it be sure the lobes aren't lifting either valve.

Also, not sure if the 6mm bolt hole in the cap is a blind one, but if it's not make certain the helicoil is red locktited so it's certain not to move when screwing the bolt in. (Wouldn't want the bolt to work the helicoil further into the cap 'till it rubbed the cams machined surface).

dave
 
bower100;35730 said:
And since the cap holds the cam in place, before removing it be sure the lobes aren't lifting either valve.

Also, not sure if the 6mm bolt hole in the cap is a blind one, but if it's not make certain the helicoil is red locktited so it's certain not to move when screwing the bolt in. (Wouldn't want the bolt to work the helicoil further into the cap 'till it rubbed the cams machined surface).

dave
Click to expand...

Is making sure TDC the way to make sure the lobes aren't lifting the valve? Or a better question is how to make sure given this is the first time I've ever looked inside this engine?

hammer;35731 said:
http://www.timesert.com/

Better than a helicoil, just my 2 cents.
Click to expand...

rajobigguy;35740 said:
I'll add another nickle to the pot. Don't use Helicoils on critical pieces, there are much better thread inserts available. IMO Timeserts are the best.:thumbsup:
Click to expand...


So, am I better off letting my friend, who has experience with helicoils, do this with a Timesert or, doing it myself? I'm moderately mechanically inclined(though I screwed this up).:doh:

Also, after watching Dean's video again, I see something different about what I experienced that I'm wondering is the cause of my leaking issue. In the video, the gasket stayed on the head. When I took my cover off, the gasket came with it. Might that have been the problem since the oil was leaking from between the head and the gasket?

And should I find a new gasket and replace it?

And if so, do I just lay it on or do I need to do something to seal it?

Sorry for the barrage of questions, but I want to get this right.:cheers:

Thanks again everyone****************************************!
 
In the video the seal was broken between the gasket & top, and also the gasket and cylinder. It just happened to be laying on the cylinder when I filmed it.

Mine leaked a little bit after assembly, maybe a 1/4 teaspoon, then stopped. If you can get a gasket by all means see if that helps but the old one should work.

I'd get someone else mechanically involved for a second opinion, at least to do the timesert. By this time tomorrow you will know if your dealer can help before the weekend.
 
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