What I learned Restoring a Husky WR430 and WR250 Restoration tips

[MikeDi]

I'm posting this thread for anyone in the future that may or probably will run into the same issues so feel free to add what you know. I'm no expert, i'm a hack that loves to mess with machines.
My Husky was a total roach. it had been ridden hard for 18 years then stored basically in a barn.
The starting point of most restos should be thought out. I mean, based on your skills and budget, don't bite off more than you can swallow.
Anyway starting from scratch.

• Power wash the bike, Strip off the plastics.
• Take photos of the wiring, cable routing and anything else you will forget in 5 months.
• Pick up a parts diagram and manual. http://hva-factory.com/catalogue
• strip down bag and tag all parts, clean them ahead of time so they are ready to re-install or put them in a separate box for replacement
• before removing the engine drain the oil and fill the gear box with kerosene. this will unstick and clean the inside. remove the side covers, crack loose the main gear and flywheel while the engine is in the frame.
• remove the chain, save it so you can measure up the new one and save time. last step you're going to want to get this over with.
• Strip the bike down to the frame, remove the wheels, remove the hockey puck tires and check the rims for cracks in the seam. if it's cracked a little on each side, no big deal. Check the spokes. I polish the spokes using about 400 grit paper backed by packing tape like a shoe shine. Clean the hubs, get all the rust out of the brake drums. I like to restore the wheels when the frame is out to sand blast. Again it's a last step in re-assembly and by then you want to get it done and over with.
• Pipe and silencer: take apart the silencer, scotch brite and re-pack.
• Pipe, mine was rotten from mouse pi$$. had to chuck it.
• By the way, a 82 83 XC500 pipe does not fit a 83 430.
• Shocks: I've only built one set of Fox shocks and hated it. I sent mine to a buddy who like to restore shocks. It cost me some bucks but they are like new.
• Motor, Splitting the cases on my 250 was a first time event for me. If you take your time and invest in the right tools, it's not that difficult. Again, the right tools. Buy the right gasket set, don't skimp. Take your time and prep the gasket surfaces. I didn't and have some weepy areas. I rushed it like a dummy. Replace everything you can afford. Maybe other guys with more experience can chime in.
• Top end: I sent my cylinder to a quality shop for first over bore. the 430 needed it, the 250 didn't but I sent it anyway. All in with piston and bore it runs about $300. I won't have to do it again and i know it's right.
• Bottom end; crank and bearings were good, didn't mess with them. Big bucks if you do.
• replaced crank seals and bearings, I borrowed my buddies electric griddle to heat the case halves. I worked well. Froze the bearings of course. Cases on my 250 were rotten. had to find a matching replacement set.. Again Matching set of cases for any of you guys searching this site.
• Frame: you can do it yourself with aircraft stripper or sandblast if you have the equipment. I sent mine to a local shop for blast and powder coat.
• check the foot peg mounts for wear. lay a weld bead down and build them back up so they don't sag.
• Tip: degrease the frame before you send it for powder coat. Sandblasting just drives the grease into the metal. You will save them time and get a better quality paint job. Also check the frame for cracks under the seat stays. if the tail section is bent, which both of mine needed a tweak, then wedge it in a tree and rail on it! Make sure the powder coat company doesn't cover up your frame number. Write it down ahead of time...
• you may want to put old bolts in the holes that you don't want powder coated.
• NO your down tube is not bent! it's supposed to be that way to clear the head of the pipe.
• Re-plating hardware and pcs. I sent out my parts for plating. was worth it. You need to wire wheel everything and degrease beforehand. TIP: don't have your axles plated. Yeah, that was dumb. I had to grind off the plating.

 

[MikeDi]

Front Suspension: Disassemble and drain the old oil. Remove the bottom bolt and disassemble. Before you disassemble put some kerosene in the forks and soak a bit.
Use the jelly type aircraft stripper on the lowers. I painted mine with Primer then bright white appliance epoxy paint in a spray can from the hardware store.
install the fork seals dry or they will pop out... anyone have a better way?
Make sure all the crud is removed from the bottom of the fork leg, or they will leak.
When you reassemble, compress the forks then tighten up the bottom bolt so the washer centers itself.

 

[MikeDi]

Took my 43mm seal driver. Used PVC to step it down. Worked well.

 

[MikeDi]

Dowel

 

[MikeDi]

When you reassemble, make sure you grind off the powder coat or paint from the motor mount contact surfaces. This will ground the motor to the frame. I'm not sure this is critical but I do it anyway.
Don't have a heart attack, No Your front tube or down tube is not bent, it's supposed to be that way in order to clear the exhaust port. Message to all you first timers from a noob!

 

[MikeDi]

Set the timing while the head is off the bike. On the 84 there is a little timing hole in the flywheel. (yes, my chain guard is upside down, fixed it)
I can post something on this later.

 

[MikeDi]

Paint stripper, white primer and epoxy paint for lowers. Probably works well on frames also.

 

[jimspac]

On Rustoleum Appliance epoxy the instructions on the can say not to use primer.

I used the Appliance Epoxy on the frame for the 84 250WR I have. It is not like powdercoat in the respect that the paint chips easily. But still suitable for a machine to be ridden and it can be touched up where powdercoat can not.

 

[MikeDi]

I think the most satisfying part of a build is mounting the shocks. So my buddy Nate restored these for me. Disassembled, sand blasted powder coated and rebuilt. Shocks, not my favorite to restore, but love to look at them.

 

[dnietsche]

Mike,

Nate does a great job. I have know him for years and he did mine also. If anyone needs work done let me know and I will get you in contact with him.

 

[MikeDi]

Suppliers list:
husqvarna-parts.com Phillip had everything for this build
HVR Racing shock rebuild
kenoconnorracing.com top end bore, Ken had done 4 top end bores for me. All were done right.
I sent one to a guy down south, broke a fin on me. I was pissed.

 

[MikeDi]

One quick detail about plastics and graphics.
I bought a set of DC plastics for my 430. Okay, they are not like factory but happy they still make them for these old machines.
I washed the plastics in alcohol before applying decals. didn't work. They peeled right off.
Also I used heat.
Also, Vintage Roost decals have a lighter color yellow than original. It's more of a sunshine yellow than golden yellow like original.
EVO Graphics makes the original color. You can see the color difference between the graphic and side panel.
I wasted some money on graphics and just wanted to point out the difference.

 

[MikeDi]

Carbs: Some guys will argue all day about using old carbs. Restoring them rebuilding etc. Restoring carbs seems to be a hobby in itself to some.
This guy, not so much.
I've spent time trying to sort out old carbs and this last build taught me something. buy a new one.
Went to SUDCO and bought a new perfectly jetted Mikuni.

Third kick, fired up and idled off. Just what you want after 5 months of work. I'm a believer.

 

[MikeDi]

Decal Examples: The correct color

 

[slosh]

Great thread.

 

[ajcmbrown]

I found the same thing with decals Mike, Evo-Mx do great replicas in awesome quality and their after sales service is way above expectation.
My 85 400 decals were ordered with my club name and number, the left sidecover decal looked like it was for a twin shock though.
A couple of emails later to identify what was needed and five days later it was on my doorstep, from England to Australia, printed, packaged and no charge! I was seriously impressed!



As much as I love what Phil does for this community, this is the colour difference in the supplied decals, and they are rice paper thin, everything else I've bought from him has been great but these are a disappointment.
Tony.

 

[suprize]

hey Mike, you forgot two simple tips..1. photo photo photo every little thing before and during removal. 2. buy a parts manual, have a printed copy in the workshop as it will tell you what length bolts go where! only a few spots on a husky this can be an issue but they are there! nice summary thread.

 

[MikeDi]

Great suggestion: I photo pretty much everything especially wiring.

hey Mike, you forgot two simple tips..1. photo photo photo every little thing before and during removal. 2. buy a parts manual, have a printed copy in the workshop as it will tell you what length bolts go where! only a few spots on a husky this can be an issue but they are there! nice summary thread.

 

[MikeDi]

Hey Guys, feel free to post restoration tips.
Tips like, cleaning parts, paint tricks, modifications, suspension tuning, motor building etc.
Tools and what to use.
There's some real talented builders out there, let's hear some tips.

 

[MikeDi]

Case splitter and crank puller: Bought a Tusk brand combo. I need it for other bikes so it was a good investment. Just so you know, the case splitter works well. The crank puller does not fit Husky. I knew this in advance. My buddy bought and ground down a flywheel nut to use as an adapter for the crank puller. Grind the edges off to make it round and it fits well with the Tusk puller.
On the primary gear side I used the nut with one of the old bearings to pull the crank into place. I hated this so please someone post a better way. I know there's a Husky tool but where? P.S. having a more experience buddy with a torch helps.. thanks Dave!