what do i need to service a 420 autooxb + bonus pictures

[silverstreakNZ]

hi . i have read the service manual etc and have an understanding of what does what and why . what tools do i actually need before is start
something to lock the clutch ?
and what else are we on the look out for inside . the sweede we bought it off says every 20 hours pull it apart and inspect and clean sprags and hack saw the grooves .

it all functions perfectly atm so will pull it apart before something turns to shit . also make a spring retainer for the main springs

also bouns pictures from sunday club day

 

[silverstreakNZ]

 

[stormer254]

Love the photos, but if you are referring to the manual on here, it is for a 360/390 gearbox and there are several differences that will cause you problems!

 

[silverstreakNZ]

oh rude . ive read the 430 manual aswell and most of the service bulletiens in between . is locking the crank the only special tool i need ?

 

[fran...k.]

If I recall correctly I used a metal bar perhaps 1/4 inch by one inch, tapped two holes for 1/4-20 bolts, used ones with about an inch of non threaded protion with the hex part cut off. Had to notch the bar a bit so the socket fit on the nut. There are hinged tools to fit multiple distances between the pins but I only had one with smaller pins. Then one of those generic pullers that can be used with two or three attachment points and 6mm bolts and washers. I usually fit a soft coin over the end of the crank to press against with the cupped option for the main screw. With the 430 I had a spare clutch and necessary stuff to swap it out to carry but it seemed to like to fail where pushing and cleaning first seemed a better option. It does tell you in the manual to re torque similar to the stuff on the electric taper doesn't it?

Was the guy talking about prying out the bronze bushings on the first gear clutch and cleaning out the starting one way clutch? I have left that second shaft alone (or took it apart part way and stopped) and never had a problem, looks to me like there are some teflon bearing surfaces, at least as I recall, that looked easy to damage. I also have heard those one way clutches in there will fall apart upon diss-assembly before they cease to function.

 

[stormer254]

This is all you need to know about working on the gearbox including tools. This is a 250 military model that has the same gearbox as yours. http://www.teamnorrland.se/Renovera AE.htm

 

[fran...k.]

This is all you need to know about working on the gearbox including tools. This is a 250 military model that has the same gearbox as yours. http://www.teamnorrland.se/Renovera AE.htm

To be honest I don't see anything about the second shaft with the free wheels. The one that comes out with a plate over near the drive sprocket. Or the starting free wheel. Am I missing something.

 

[troy deck]

4 HUSKYS AND A GASAGAS THAT SEEMS LIKE A GOOD MIX TO ME

 

[silverstreakNZ]

yea that was just for 2 of us a ride too haha

the maico and the tm400 got left behind . and dont get me started on the BSA 650

 

[silverstreakNZ]

Gearbox fluid: the manual recommends 1.2 or 1.3 liters, but I have it from my factory contact at Husqvarna that 1.0 liter is enough. The smaller volume helps the oil carry away the heat better, when you ride hard. If you put in 1.2L the gearbox runs hotter.
The gearbox lube I use is called "Statoil 131" in Sweden, and it is a very high VI hydraulic fluid with no zinc.
Mobil Univis, nowadays called Mobil HVI 26 (or something like that) is supposed to be good too.
I could find none of those oils in NZ, but instead used that 5W and 7.5W fork fluid from SCA in Rangiora with reasonable good result. Rowan told med he uses a Shell gearbox oil for his 430Auto, the red "Dexron" stuff, can't remember the product name right now.
Gearbox Maintenance: The gears/sprags in the secondary gearbox shaft need regular cleaning/inspection, every 15-20h or so. The shaft/geaars can be pulled apart (leave the sprags on the inner races, they may fall apart otherwise), and use a toothbrush to brush off any brass filings from the sprags. If the ladders holding the sprag segments get worn, the segments fall out or lie flat. This is bad and that sprag will need replacing asap. Otherwise loose parts will scratch the race surfaces. Sometimes the long spring around it all that holds the segments in can come loose, but then you just replace the spring, if the rest of it seems ok (the segments and the "ladder").
There is also a large sprag in the small clutch on the left side crank pin. If you tap out one of the brass discs, this large sprag can be accessed/cleaned. More important ther though is the oil channel that fees oil from the end of the crank pin into the center of the sprag. The manual says to clean the channel by blowing compressed air in through it, but tobe certain to get all the gunk out, it is recommended to take a thin welding rod/piano wire with the end shaped into a "spade" and scrape out any gunk from that channel. Otherwis your large sprag may get not enough lubrication. Please note that there is an aluminium end piece on that crankpin - it can be pulled out for this cleaning operation, as it is a light press fit.
It has a magnetic oil plug, but brass is not magnetic, so it is wise to every now and then open the left engine cover and clean out any sedimentation in the cover before you put fresh oil in it (it leans that way on the side stand, so solids tend to settle there when parked)