Went a little crazy last night...

[MEGA_MAX]

Hi there, new to this forum and to Husky ownership. Last Friday I traded my '98 KX250 for a street legal '93 TE610. The decompression cable is missing, no speedo, no mirror, and the turn signal and brake light wiring isn't hooked up.

Last night I decided to look at fixing the decompression cable, and I ended up completely tearing it down. I plan on powder coating the frame and replacing or refreshing the bearings as they have years of dirt in them.

I figure I should work on the engine while I have it out of the bike, but I'm hesitant to do anything without any access to rebuild kits for both the top and bottom end. Do you guys know if these parts are available? Or at least remotely affordable?

Lastly, I think I may have been exposed to way too much gasoline fumes last night, but right now I'm pretty dead set on wanting to install an ecotron small engine EFI system.

Overall I was pleased with how the disassembly went, so far this has been an easy bike to work on.

BEFORE:

AFTER:

 

[justintendo]

awesome machine. altho made in italy after the italian takeover, still a very swedish machine. ill let others more familiar clue you in about parts availability for the motor but great bike! once some of the plastic is off, it looks very much like its late 80s true swede brothers, and thats a good thing. love those chassis. very comfortable and stable

 

[MEGA_MAX]

awesome machine. altho made in italy after the italian takeover, still a very swedish machine. ill let others more familiar clue you in about parts availability for the motor but great bike! once some of the plastic is off, it looks very much like its late 80s true swede brothers, and thats a good thing. love those chassis. very comfortable and stable

Cool! Good to hear, I appreciate the info on it! I'll take all the info I can get on this bike.


Do you guys know if this crankcase splitter tool will work with the Husky? Also, are there any other tools I should get for rebuilding (or at least refreshing) the engine?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Crank-Pulle...Parts_Accessories&hash=item2a499573ae&vxp=mtr

I have the cylinder, head, and valve cover off the engine right now. Cam shaft looks great, valves look great, timing chain, piston, cylinder and crankshaft all look great.

 

[Motosportz]

I love the old single cam huskys. In fact one just like yours got me started on huskys. Had several single cam monsters. They vibrate a lot but the power is super fun. I miss mine. I do have a old FE501 berg that is similar and fun in the same beasty way. You will have a lot of fun with that, good trade.

 

[MEGA_MAX]

I love the old single cam huskys. In fact one just like yours got me started on huskys. Had several single cam monsters. They vibrate a lot but the power is super fun. I miss mine. I do have a old FE501 berg that is similar and fun in the same beasty way. You will have a lot of fun with that, good trade.

Beautiful bike! And thanks! I've been worried about whether or not it was a good trade because of the condition of the kawasaki vs the husky, but I think being street-able tips the scales in the Huskys favor.

Getting the frame powder coated soon, any color scheme ideas? Also considering having the plastics hydrodipped by the same guy.

 

[MEGA_MAX]

I'm working on getting the clutch basket nut off, but it's on really tight and I have no way of keeping the basket from spinning. Is an impact wrench really the only way to go at this point?

Also, I was wondering if you guys could help me figure out this clutch bearing I removed? It has this weird collar and flathead slot, and I can't seem to figure out what it's purpose is, other than maybe adjusting the baseline tightness of the pressure plate?

 

[reveille]

An air impact gun should make quick work of the nut if you have one.

 

[Motosportz]

I'm working on getting the clutch basket nut off, but it's on really tight and I have no way of keeping the basket from spinning. Is an impact wrench really the only way to go at this point?

Also, I was wondering if you guys could help me figure out this clutch bearing I removed? It has this weird collar and flathead slot, and I can't seem to figure out what it's purpose is, other than maybe adjusting the baseline tightness of the pressure plate?

Simply for adjusting the pushrod / bearing in range.

 

[Motosportz]

Yes, impact wrench on the clutch hub or center hub holding tool.

 

[rancher1]

Put a copper penny between the gears if you do not have the holding tool, it is an old timers trick.

 

[justintendo]

yes, or some aluminum shim stock.. prefer to blip it quickly with the impact..
when the clutch is all assembled, the piece you are looking at adjusts the play present at the lever on top of the cases. this is a critical adjustment if you want to minimize drag. at the other end of the shaft theres the cam which gets beat up pretty good sometimes. check that out as well...

 

[MEGA_MAX]

Thanks for the advice everyone, I really appreciate it! Will look into getting an air compressor/impact wrench, any excuse to get new tools

Interesting info about the part I posted, do you guys know of any guides that would instruct me on how to optimally adjust this when it comes time to re-assemble? My google-fu with this bike is horrible.

Justintendo: I looked at the other end of the shaft for the cam but couldn't find it, the other end just had a hole with a ball bearing in it. Or does the clutch basket need to be fully removed in order to see it?

Thanks again for all your help.

 

[justintendo]

look on the top of the cases by the lever, there should be a screw that holds the shaft in. leave the clutch arm attached so you have something to pry against and it will pop up and out. the seal will come out with it. this all sits on the other side of the bearing you saw. you can see the "cam" through the center of that bearing. im going by my swede teardown knowledge, so there may be differences. when its all back together you will want about 4-5mm of freeplay at the end of that clutch arm, adjusted by that center push rod. these motors can be done almost blindfolded once you have done them a few times, but a manual is helpful for the first time.

http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/vintage-husqvarna-1987-1988-4t-motors-manual.4988/

check over in the vintage left kicker tech reference, the later four stroke stuff should be enough to help you get it together right

 

[MEGA_MAX]

look on the top of the cases by the lever, there should be a screw that holds the shaft in. leave the clutch arm attached so you have something to pry against and it will pop up and out. the seal will come out with it. this all sits on the other side of the bearing you saw. you can see the "cam" through the center of that bearing. im going by my swede teardown knowledge, so there may be differences. when its all back together you will want about 4-5mm of freeplay at the end of that clutch arm, adjusted by that center push rod. these motors can be done almost blindfolded once you have done them a few times, but a manual is helpful for the first time.

http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/vintage-husqvarna-1987-1988-4t-motors-manual.4988/

check over in the vintage left kicker tech reference, the later four stroke stuff should be enough to help you get it together right

That manual is awesome! Didn't expect the engines to be so similar but they look the exact same! I really appreciate it!

 

[justintendo]

yeah dont take it as religion as the italians could have changed a shim or whatever but should explain most of it. very cool that motor is really a 2 stroke bottom end converted to run as a 4 stroke. the genes of that motor go back to the 70s but if you look at the 80s 2 stroke you see it.