• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

weak starting..runs like a demon once started?!?!?!?!

ripnriding

ripnriding

Husqvarna
AA Class
ok..baffled..was thinking either bad battery or worn starter...hear me out. Bike is a '07 TE 450. Almost drain the battery to get it started with electric start and only way it will catch is after the 3rd or 4th try..rolling throttle slightly. Wanted to rule out starter and battery today so decided to kick it over. Starts easier but still needs a little throttle WITH choke (of course when cold). When started, throttle response is beautiful, low speed is mint. I stop and chat for a few minutes with some riders and then when I start...have to roll throttle with electric start..fires up beautifully and then off to the races again. SO...where should I start..it may be important to note that the display on my speedo/tach (stock) is now impossible to read. I was thinking of a compression test as a buddy has the tool to check it. Also thinking it could be valve adjustment as this was similar to the spring prior to having 3 of 4 valves adjusted (2 zero clearance). High mileage...could be time for a rebuild? Throw it at me....just got it back from shop after paying $1200 for rear end bushings/bearings, carb clean, horn fixed (I know....), and new drivetrain. Not really wanting to put it back in shop as the season is coming close to an end here in Kingston Ontario, Canada ;)
 
Might be a tiny intake leak, having to roll on the throttle a bit to get it some extra gas to mix with the extra air. with the bike started and idling evenly, spray some starting fluid around the rubber intake manifold boot, starting at the top and rotating down one side, then go over and do the other side. Listen for any increase in the idle.

Might be a head gasket leak. Any time you encounter a hard starting episode, especially after a short break in riding, pull the plug and have a look at it, if there are droplets of water on the plug, you'd have a small head gasket leak.
 
The intake boot is showing signs of wear...looking brittle...will WD40 work as "starting fluid"? I may just smear some RTV sealant around the gasket to keep me riding for the next couple of week prior to initiating the winter long project of gradual rebuild. I have had a weeping of oil around the base of the cylinder where it meets the casing on the right side...head gasket leak usually results in overheating right and high idle? My idle is super low at start up to the point where I have to keep a little throttle on until it stabilizes....hmmm...this seems to be pointing more to the intake manifold boot. Will pull the plastics off and get a good look at it tomorrow morning. Thanks OHS ;)
 
OlderHuskyRider said:
Might be a tiny intake leak, having to roll on the throttle a bit to get it some extra gas to mix with the extra air. with the bike started and idling evenly, spray some starting fluid around the rubber intake manifold boot, starting at the top and rotating down one side, then go over and do the other side. Listen for any increase in the idle.

Might be a head gasket leak. Any time you encounter a hard starting episode, especially after a short break in riding, pull the plug and have a look at it, if there are droplets of water on the plug, you'd have a small head gasket leak.
Click to expand...


I'm starting to think more towards top end...It seems pretty easy to kick over...don't have any issue with significant tension through the range..smeared some RTV around the suspect intake boot and will fire it up once I can get in the garage without wife giving me the "evil eye".....The strange thing here is this.....when it's running/warmed up...it's a ROCKET..throttle response is amazing in all ranges...it's just the estart procedure that seems weak...could be battery...ok...will get back once I try and start again. I'm going to go straight to the kick start routine: fuel on, choke, two twists of throttle, kill switch off, find TDC, kick three times..4th kick with a crack in throttle. If it fires right up with low idle...i'll spray starter to rule out air leak...ahhh the fun of self diagnosing..better start putting my pennies away for a rebuild
 
ok. Just started it up with the usual limping to start difficulty with choke on..a mix of estart and kickstarting. Only starts with throttle rolled on (yes negates the choke). Sprayed the heck out of the carb boots...no difference. Let it get up to temperature until fan came on..throttle response was great with light revving. turned off and estarted back up with some difficulty (had to roll on throttle) but fired up brilliantly and maintaining idle without fluctuation. Leaning towards valve adjustment or top end at this point...question...should the kickstart be really easy to kick through range...it has minimal resistance or what I would expect the kind of resistance to be expected from a 4 stroke? Any thoughts you may have here are appreciated ;)
 
Could be tight valves.
Could be pilot circuit dirty (or alge in circuits)
Could be fuel mixture screw off on adjustment.
Could be just plain old horomone inbalance and the bitch just doesn't work for you.
Later George
 
Up-tite said:
Could be tight valves.
Could be pilot circuit dirty (or alge in circuits)
Could be fuel mixture screw off on adjustment.
Could be just plain old horomone inbalance and the bitch just doesn't work for you.
Later George
Click to expand...


hahahaha now THAT is a response ;) Will look into the valve clearance, clean pilot (in winter;) and if that doesn't fix errrrr..will refrain from visiting dealers to trader in and wait until the phase passes...I'll be more sensitive and listen to her needs even when she acts irrational...in it for the long run hehehehehehe
 
ahHA..so...confirmed..valve clearance as follows:

1 .008 (in spec)
2 .003 (tight)
3 and 4 less than .002 (whoa nelly)

So...good thing I didn't start farting around with the carb. Think I'll bring into shop and have them check valves (shim short term) and opinion on rebuild..Luckily the weather is brutal (wet and cold) Kept me from taking her out last couple of days. Had valves shimmed in spring as there was zero clearance in both exhausts if I recall...guessing it is pointing towards a rebuild..
 
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