• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

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    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

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Water cooled clutch covers

Dave Mills

Husqvarna
AA Class
Does anyone have any info on aluminum reproductions of the w/c clutch covers? I was looking for something to avoid the corrosion problem.
 
Just fill em with araldite (2pac)and fibre fill after cleaning them totally with blasting and manual labour. then you can machine em flat, bore the seal and away you go
 
The 87-88 clutch basket is larger and the kick starter parts are a bit different on the outside because of this. The 87-88 has steel inserts at the kickstart and the shift bores. I would think if you used pre mixed motorcycle specific coolant there wouldn't be a corrosion problem. I would note which water cooled version you are getting a copy of.

No one has clamped one of those covers to an engine case and put on a machine table with a centering indicator and stated how well located the holes are above the corresponding holes in the case. The water cooled ones have another bore to be located properly.

I seem to recall the place that markets them is identified on here in a past thread.

fran
 
No doubt the later covers are the better thing, especially with the strengthening about the kicker.
i also run an earth wire from the radiator to the frame. Dont know if it does anything but i read somewhere it can help reduce the electrolysis effect:confused:

I was able to bore the seal hole acurately as the bearing boss was still intact:)
 
The 87 2/stroke ones fit the 86 engine and look a bit better with bushes fitted in the holes from factory, don't know what material they are made out of but the one on my mates 240 is like new.

As Surprize says if the bearing boss is still in the right place then you can fix the covers a couple of ways depending on the amount of damage.
 
The early ones were magnesium and the later ones were aluminum
It is critical what water you use if you mix your own as in distiller water to protect the metal
I use the premixed motorcycle or snowmobile coolant
Drain it each season and replace it and you should do well
 
I have done a repair with JB weld, and new water pump seals and it seemed pretty good. The problem I am having is when the engine is running, it pumps coolant out of the radiator overflow. The temp of the coolant is not even hot yet. I pulled the top end to check for a blown head gasket, but it looks like it was sealing. I have tried different radiator caps too. I just dont know where to look next. The bike will lose a good bit of coolant but still will not run hot. The bike is a 500xc by the way. Since it is apart and could use a fresh bore, I'll have my machinist make sure the barrel and head are flat. When I pulled the top end, there was silicone used on the gaskets, maybe that is part of the problem. Like I said it looked like it was sealing though.
 
Bit of a trick with the radiator caps.
If you use a car one it will pump water out the overflow because the cap has nowhere the recommended pressure.
The car ones are about .9 [ about 13lb] while the husky ones go from 1.1 to 1.3 [ about 17lb].
 
You havent mistaken the equaliser joiner tube for an overflow have you:confused: i did and had water coming out as you describe as i put a "tee piece in". figured it out one day and fixed it.
 
I have done a repair with JB weld, and new water pump seals and it seemed pretty good. The problem I am having is when the engine is running, it pumps coolant out of the radiator overflow. The temp of the coolant is not even hot yet. I pulled the top end to check for a blown head gasket, but it looks like it was sealing. I have tried different radiator caps too. I just dont know where to look next. The bike will lose a good bit of coolant but still will not run hot. The bike is a 500xc by the way. Since it is apart and could use a fresh bore, I'll have my machinist make sure the barrel and head are flat. When I pulled the top end, there was silicone used on the gaskets, maybe that is part of the problem. Like I said it looked like it was sealing though.

I use silicone on my gaskets (sparingly) you can re-use your gaskets this way
is your cap oem as in Husky part or aftermarket, there are many caps that look similar and fit
if it is oem, look at the seal where it fits the radiator, what is the condition of this
 
i also run an earth wire from the radiator to the frame. Dont know if it does anything but i read somewhere it can help reduce the electrolysis effect:confused:
If you switch to XF coolant, there is no corrosion, no electrolysis effect, no changing out each season as it lasts the life time of the motorcycle. It will never boil over so instead of running upwards of twenty psi in your system, XF runs at 1-2 pounds of pressure which is easier on your radiators and hoses.


http://www.hva-factory.com/external-engine/husqvarna-water-cooled-clutch-cover
 
DC Plastics carries the HVA-Factory covers in the USA so in USA you do not need to order from the UK
 
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