• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
    TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Valve Check

SwitchThrottle

Husqvarna
A Class
Well, I did my first valve check ever @ 1300 miles (shhhhh...don't tell the dealer). ;) Boy was it easy. Both exhaust were in spec. One intake was at the top end of spec (.15mm), and one intake was out of spec (.17mm). I don't have pads right now, so I will have to wait till next weekend to swap it. Soups to nuts....30 minutes (give or take 5-10 minutes):D

Very helpful (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uf0AKO-_tI4) ;)
 
Whats that song...."paranoia runs deep, into your life it will creep" (Buffalo Springfield). Bike didn't wanna idle at first. Now I am hearing my valve train more than ever (sounds like little birdies chirping) when I am at revs. The Husky always made noise, but now I am hearing more of it....damn:(

Oh....and Coffee......GREAT SITE....thanks so much for putting it togeather.
 
Coffee;3105 said:
That guy sure puts out some helpful videos :D


Hope he gets around to doing some more! :)
You made that look way too easy. Let's see you do a 610 that easy. :D

Actually getting to it is all the trouble.
 
Okay....got the shims and filters from Kelly today (shipped very quick I might add). Pulled the cover, re-checked, and had one exhaust that was comming in between .203 (slid in) and .223 (would not slide in). Pulled the shim only to find that it was a 2.35 (max size in Kelly's shim kit). Mic'ed it against a new shim just to make sure, and they were exact. So... here is where I need your input. Based on my understanding, it means that the valve is not opening all the way (2/100s less than what is considered in range). Am I correct? If it is not opening all the way, then I should not be in any harm of burning a valve that stays open....correct? This means that it is not staying open as long as it should...right? The intakes are on the edge of spec too, and they are already 2.30 and 2.35, and are at the high end of the feeler gauge reading (.15)
 
SwitchThrottle;3917 said:
Okay....got the shims and filters from Kelly today (shipped very quick I might add). Pulled the cover, re-checked, and had one exhaust that was comming in between .203 (slid in) and .223 (would not slide in). Pulled the shim only to find that it was a 2.35 (max size in Kelly's shim kit). Mic'ed it against a new shim just to make sure, and they were exact. So... here is where I need your input. Based on my understanding, it means that the valve is not opening all the way (2/100s less than what is considered in range). Am I correct? If it is not opening all the way, then I should not be in any harm of burning a valve that stays open....correct? This means that it is not staying open as long as it should...right? The intakes are on the edge of spec too, and they are already 2.30 and 2.35, and are at the high end of the feeler gauge reading (.15)

Took a day to digest what you wrote - yes.

The valves are not going to open as far or as soon as they should... not sure what that means as far as the engine is concerned exactly.

Have not checked my notes for my bike but your situation sounds a bit weird *to me*.



MOTORHEAD;4013 said:
That needs a sticky at the top of somewhere! Seriously.

AWESOME, what else can you say.

If you mean the video - there will be some really cool stuff happening on this site and work will continue at a rapid pace... but it the results of that work will not be soon.

.
 
Guess I got excited. Yes, the video is too cool.

I love that there's no dialog, it's just straight forward and shows what you got to do. And, if you don't get it from that then you probable don't need to be doing it yourself.
 
Coffee;4015 said:
Took a day to digest what you wrote - yes.

The valves are not going to open as far or as soon as they should... not sure what that means as far as the engine is concerned exactly.

Have not checked my notes for my bike but your situation sounds a bit weird *to me*.

Not really weird, but it is unexpected. I would expect the valves to get tighter not looser. My searches have come up with looser is better than tighter, so I am not gonna worry about it too much. Anyways...I need to score some 2.40 and 2.45 shims to make everything okay. Shouldn't be to hard to find them. What I do need to do is get the power up kit. The spark plug was showing the tell tale signs of the emissions that are choking my bike (very light brown residue, not the nice dark dry color I was looking for) :(
 
SwitchThrottle;4028 said:
Not really weird, but it is unexpected. I would expect the valves to get tighter not looser. My searches have come up with looser is better than tighter, so I am not gonna worry about it too much. Anyways...I need to score some 2.40 and 2.45 shims to make everything okay. Shouldn't be to hard to find them. What I do need to do is get the power up kit. The spark plug was showing the tell tale signs of the emissions that are choking my bike (very light brown residue, not the nice dark dry color I was looking for) :(

Plug color meant something in the 1960s - not anymore, at least for 4st engines... lots and lots of things done to the fuel these days. Of course you may be using non-pump gas in which case it might still be meaningful.

At least I would not try to determine how well a bike is running by the spark plug color.
 
Leave it. The valve do get tighter as they wear into the seats. Your not hurting anything leaving it at the high end of the spec IMHO. The chirping is from your spark arrestor in the muffler.

- Note make sure you stuff the oil holes and cam chain opening when doing the valves as dropping a shim down there can be a major PITA.
 
Motosportz;4031 said:
Leave it. The valve do get tighter as they wear into the seats. Your not hurting anything leaving it at the high end of the spec IMHO. The chirping is from your spark arrestor in the muffler.

- Note make sure you stuff the oil holes and cam chain opening when doing the valves as dropping a shim down there can be a major PITA.

LOL....I pulled the arrestor out, and the sound went away (at least I think it did....bike got louder too). As for the oil hole.....I had a round magnet that i put right in front of the hole. That way the shim wouldn't go to far. :D

Coffee...I am not running anything special for fuel. Just your run of the mill 93 oct pump gas. The bike is lean. It pops on decel, and occasionally stalls just off idle (which I find highly frustrating as that is when the light turns green, and there is always a line behind me). :o
 
Hey, Kelly cup cake get back to work on that dampener for the IMS tank. Posting at 6:00pm, there is still day light at that time. No really I have a grociery list of stuff I would like to get and would like to put it on one order. :D
Coffee, do you know the guy well enough to get a video for the 08, or is it the same? :)
 
The valve check is the same - although I have not done an 08. Please keep in mind that the video shows the feeler gauge going in the wrong spot.

The video show between the cam and the arm, it should be between the arm and the shim - think there is about 1 thousands difference when measured.
 
SwitchThrottle;4037 said:
Coffee...I am not running anything special for fuel. Just your run of the mill 93 oct pump gas. The bike is lean. It pops on decel, and occasionally stalls just off idle (which I find highly frustrating as that is when the light turns green, and there is always a line behind me). :o

That sounds like the typical "before power up kit" lean (but good gas mileage) symptoms. Mine ran much better off idle after powering up. No iBeat adjustments yet either.
 
ioneater;4073 said:
That sounds like the typical "before power up kit" lean (but good gas mileage) symptoms. Mine ran much better off idle after powering up. No iBeat adjustments yet either.

Yeah, I am torn between the lean fuel economy, and the better running machine. I would love to just richin it up a hair without the power up kit so it would run better and keep the fuel economy. But then again....it is a race bike with blinkers, and I already run it hard enough that mid 40 mpg is now average. (50 mpg when I got it). Still gets better MPG then a Prius :D
 
Well, I did my first valve check ever @ 1300 miles (shhhhh...don't tell the dealer). ;) Boy was it easy. Both exhaust were in spec. One intake was at the top end of spec (.15mm), and one intake was out of spec (.17mm). I don't have pads right now, so I will have to wait till next weekend to swap it. Soups to nuts....30 minutes (give or take 5-10 minutes):D

Very helpful (
View: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uf0AKO-_tI4
) ;)
I have searching for a video like this for long time. Thanks. looks so much more easy than I was thinking.
 
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