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Tread wear limit for rear tires

Brian Scott

Brian Scott

Husqvarna
AA Class
Just curious about what everyone thinks is the recommended minimum tread depth/percentage from original depth they run before changing to new shoes. On my '11 wr300 I'm currently running Kenda Parkers front and rear. The front is still nearly new looking w/500 miles or so. The rear is a 120/100-18 w/1,000 miles on it. Although the rear looks very worn, the center knobs still have 9 mm of tread left. Tread depth on center knobs on my new (un-mounted) rear is 16 mm, so I still have a little over 50% tread left. The rounded edges of the center knobs are visually deceiving making me think I have less tread than what actually remains. Traction hasn't been an issue so far. I got a pinch flat recently on the rear while riding, so I bought a new rear tire thinking 1,000 miles was enough to set it out to pasture, but was surprised when I measured the tread depth of the old and new, so thinking I'm going to run the tire in the other direction (it's bi-directional) to get a couple more hundred miles out of it.

Also, does anyone wrap their tubes w/old tubes for more pinch flat protection? I run Moose super heavy duty tubes front and rear (10 psi front, 8 psi rear for single track in the woods), so was surprised by the pinch flat (first one ever for a rear) and am thinking of using the old tube to wrap around a new tube...
 
I run tires until they are done. Either knobs chunking off or feeling like they don't work. This is a definite YMMV issue because tires are a personal thing. I saw a kid at a race complaining to his dad that his bike needed a new tire because it had 2 motos on it. He's in for a surprise when dad stops buying tires, but I digress.

I was recently turned on to a great way to reduce the chances of pinch flats. The talcum powder method is OK, but it eventually loses effectivness. A second tube adds weight and if not done right, creates bunch spots. Ajaxauto here on the Cafe told me to use tire soap. Yes, the same stuff you use with moose inserts. Working well for me so far on sharp rocks and other desert type terrain. Put lots in and wipe off the excess.
 
Huskynoobee said:
I run tires until they are done. Either knobs chunking off or feeling like they don't work. This is a definite YMMV issue because tires are a personal thing. I saw a kid at a race complaining to his dad that his bike needed a new tire because it had 2 motos on it. He's in for a surprise when dad stops buying tires, but I digress.

I was recently turned on to a great way to reduce the chances of pinch flats. The talcum powder method is OK, but it eventually loses effectivness. A second tube adds weight and if not done right, creates bunch spots. Ajaxauto here on the Cafe told me to use tire soap. Yes, the same stuff you use with moose inserts. Working well for me so far on sharp rocks and other desert type terrain. Put lots in and wipe off the excess.
Click to expand...

Bought some enforce tire soap as Ajax and chilly and several others recommend. Running the fatty goldentyre and had a valve stem rip off. Tire soap made the tire change effortless and took less time than any other method I've tried. Also running low tire pressure causes the tube to work inside the tire and get pulled around, that's how my valve stem got removed.
 
So do you just lather up the inside of the tire w/the soap before putting the tube inside, or do you also later up the tube? Lathering the tire bead w/it is a no-brainer.

I've been using the baby (talcum) powder method for a few years and it definitely makes the tube install much easier than w/out it as you can shift the tube and tire some if needed. I put the powder in the tire and smear it all over inside and also rub powder all over the tube before putting in the tire. It makes for a sweet smelling job. When mounting the tire I'll squirt WD-40 along the bead and the tire slips on nicely and then it dries up leaving no mess to deal with.
 
When using a tube I how use Enforce tire soap and put it inside the tire and also on the tube Really seems to work on the pinch flats Next best thing is a mousse the tire soap is avalible thru Zip Ty Racing

Call them 760 244 7028
 
ajaxauto said:
When using a tube I how use Enforce tire soap and put it inside the tire and also on the tube Really seems to work on the pinch flats Next best thing is a mousse the tire soap is avalible thru Zip Ty Racing

Call them 760 244 7028
Click to expand...

That's how I did it. Both tube and tire. Cleans up super easy, just plain water.
 
No im from a small island in the channel called Gurnsey its very small.
Im just lazy im in no rush too put new rubber on it improves my skill spinning everywhere.
 
juicypips said:
No im from a small island in the channel called Gurnsey its very small.
Im just lazy im in no rush too put new rubber on it improves my skill spinning everywhere.
Click to expand...
ive heard some good excuses as to avoiding replacing a tire but thats a good one.
 
Unless you're bloody pissed of course. Then it's just a bimble in the brambles. Not bad for a Kentucky confederate in King Arthur's Court eh?
 
Nah spinning slows me down but loss of traction encourages me too look for dryer terrain too hook up on.
I will do it for next enduro, or the one after.
 
its all good juicy but once the canvas starts showing i reckon youre down to ya last 500km mate:D. i hate wasting stuff(tyres/brake pads/chains/sprockets/consumables) that i think i can get the most out of but havent. but then once i put new tyres/pads whatever on i think 'gee i should have done that ages ago!'
 
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