• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
    TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Top End Rebuild Of Txc 310r (2013)

The Gazzman

Husqvarna
AA Class
Hi Guys, well I have been able to get 190+ hours before a top end rebuild. The oil usage has remained constant but I am not going to risk it. I have all the parts and probably more than I need.

I am looking for a reference to doing a top end rebuild for this bike as the workshop manual covers engine removal and complete disassembly which is a bit extreme.

Any advice guys? References to material and/or real world experience gratefully accepted.

Regards
The Gazzman
 
It's a pretty straightforward process.

If you are not splitting the cases for a rod replacement and the motor is running good, frankly I'd leave it.
The only thing that might be an issue at 190 hours is the rod and if you are not going to replace it then I'd leave it.

If you kept the oil and airfilter clean and don't race the bike hard then just keep listening for noise in the bottom end and split the cases once you hear the least bit of low end knocking.

I bet if you pull the piston the ring end gap will be within spec anyway. You could change the piston and rings and then hear bottom end noise the next day only to have to do it again.

I'd say change the rod or don't bother.

if you split the cases remember to put the small e-clip back on the shift fork shaft.
It's easy to miss. Get a case splitter and take your time on a clean work bench.
 
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