• 2 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     WR = 2st Enduro & CR = 2st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

All 2st To reiterate, check your sprocket bolts often, or else...

Crocus Paper

Crocus Paper

Husqvarna
AA Class
Husky sproc2.jpg


Anyone know who makes a replacement Hub?

Bolts had lock nuts and loctite on. I always check them for a few rides after disturbance, they havn't been touched for ages, obviously need checking every ride. Damn.
 
Wow!
I've never had a problem with this but I purchased the motion pro torque adaptor
this year and use a torque wrench on the backside nuts instead of holding the nut and
torqueing the hex on the head side. Good way just to make sure proper torque.
Paint mark the nuts and check each ride.
Also did some checking and noticed that it is real easy to use sprocket bolts that have a
longer shank that ends up having the nut bottom on that shank instead of torqueing properly.
I've been using Hub-Savers branded euro hub savers sprocket bolts pn#2401-0858 and these
work perfect in length for wr and cr hubs.
I sent you a pm also, I might have a hub for you.
Thanks
 
Crocus Paper said:
View attachment 82951


Anyone know who makes a replacement Hub?

Bolts had lock nuts and loctite on. I always check them for a few rides after disturbance, they havn't been touched for ages, obviously need checking every ride. Damn.
Click to expand...

The lock nuts should have held...

but my italian husky's stock sprocket bolts were 34mm total length (everybody elses in the world are 31mm. if you're using aftermarket sprocket bolts, you cannot use the washers that sometimes come with them. even still, with final torque you will only get half a thread out the end of the nut. check them every time until you get them to stay tight for at least 3 rides- then you'll probably never have to worry about them again.

I can't remember if I compared nut heights.

<hate to suggest this--> you could probably ride with the broken hub flange while you wait for a new wheel or hub.
 
I would name this thread do your sprocket bolts up properly . That involves doing checking on them until they no longer require checking as mentioned above .
You can spot movement easily because there will be aluminum paste around the holes in the same way rust stains appear around loose wheel nuts on big trucks
 
Seen this a few times on RHS drive huskies. I guess torque from sprocket is constantly trying to undo them. I check them periodically with spanner but generally just check the thread protrusion out of nut is similar on all 6. I'm sure halls, bills or motosportz mike would have a spare hub
 
The ironic thing is, about a month ago I found my sons RM125 rear sprocket bolts loose so took him under the 'tree of knowledge', he promptly tightened them and keeps them tight.

Bolts were all tight the last time I checked, and before that, and before that etc, correct length bolts were fitted, although I lost one ages ago and replaced it, the replacement was slightly longer but not thread bound, maybe something there? Also I tightened the chain before going out, defo not over tight, but maybe with the gritty mud or even a stone (was a few rocks and stones on the circuit) between chain and sprocket, could have had something to do with it.

Seems like I made a basic error here. But a search on this forum does reveal a few broken.
 
Trenchcoat85 said:
The lock nuts should have held...

but my italian husky's stock sprocket bolts were 34mm total length (everybody elses in the world are 31mm. if you're using aftermarket sprocket bolts, you cannot use the washers that sometimes come with them. even still, with final torque you will only get half a thread out the end of the nut. check them every time until you get them to stay tight for at least 3 rides- then you'll probably never have to worry about them again.

I can't remember if I compared nut heights.

<hate to suggest this--> you could probably ride with the broken hub flange while you wait for a new wheel or hub.
Click to expand...

The new hubs that husky went to in 2011 require the longer (34mm) bolts, the rest of them I believe are 31mm.
 
Crocus Paper said:
The ironic thing is, about a month ago I found my sons RM125 rear sprocket bolts loose so took him under the 'tree of knowledge', he promptly tightened them and keeps them tight.

Bolts were all tight the last time I checked, and before that, and before that etc, correct length bolts were fitted, although I lost one ages ago and replaced it, the replacement was slightly longer but not thread bound, maybe something there? Also I tightened the chain before going out, defo not over tight, but maybe with the gritty mud or even a stone (was a few rocks and stones on the circuit) between chain and sprocket, could have had something to do with it.

Seems like I made a basic error here. But a search on this forum does reveal a few broken.
Click to expand...

Crocus, if I were you- I would just resign myself to taking an extra 23 seconds before every ride and putting a 12mm wrench on every sprocket nut. Once you establish that habit, you will probably never have an issue again. (and forget what I said above about the tight-for-3-rides thing... there's something else going on here).

IOW- putting gas in the bike? check the nuts. Coolant check? then check the nuts. Air pressure gauge is out? check the nuts. Peek at the air filter? check the nuts. Once this gets burned into your brain, you won't be able to go anywhere without a wrench on sprocket nuts.

BTW, just use a light torque 15ft/lbs (~20Nm??) at the most... because you're just trying to detect loose nuts. But once you find one- tighten it up, of course.
 
I loaned my 2005 TE 510 to a friend to do the Idaho City qualifier and the rear hub ended up with a broken ear just like that. I had it fixed and continued to use it on my 510 and it is now running around on the back of my TE 449 more than 10 years later.
 
rancher1,

do you think the newer hubs were designed to have thicker flanges when husky (or beta, GG or whoever uses 'em) noticed a high number of breakages? or hell- do they even have thicker flanges? The sprocket bolt would indicate that they're 3mm thicker, I guess.

and i wonder why the right-hand drive bikes did not get new hubs? (less torque? too many in stock? too expensive? no huge problem?). Is flipping the wheels around possible (IOW, will a 510 wheel work on a WR300)?

while I'm at it: why is a 125 left hand drive, since the '90s I guess?
 
Trenchcoat, the newer hubs were produced to go to "japanese indexing" for lacing the spokes. I believe the flanges are thicker but I have not measured them. I am guessing the WR 250/300 was to be done later with the new hubs, but maybe they had an excess ? You can run the wheels on the other machines but you would need to replace the rear chain guide with something like a BRP guide that has more clearance for the chain. The 125 motor was redesigned for 1998.
 
rancher1 said:
Trenchcoat, the newer hubs were produced to go to "japanese indexing" for lacing the spokes. I believe the flanges are thicker but I have not measured them. I am guessing the WR 250/300 was to be done later with the new hubs, but maybe they had an excess ? You can run the wheels on the other machines but you would need to replace the rear chain guide with something like a BRP guide that has more clearance for the chain. The 125 motor was redesigned for 1998.
Click to expand...

thanks for taking the time for such a complete response to my dam-burst of questions. I'm 60, but I think I drove my dad nuts with questions when I was a kid... and I've never stopped. :oldman:
 
rancher1 said:
I was fortunate enough to have a good connection for information for quite a while and I do not mind sharing it. I also help locals with their husky stuff to save them money since I have a lot of husqvarna shop tools.
Click to expand...

well, I very much appreciate your contributions- I learn a lot. and I too will occasionally lend specialty tools to help a fellow husky rider out, but I don't have many to lend. Actually, a fellow Washingtonian has my entire inventory right now (a flywheel puller and holder- which I bought off a Cafe Husky member who was leaving the brand).

There was another CH member- Caferacerman, that was leaving the brand and had about 5 new K&N oil filters. He sent them to me free and wouldn't let me pay the shipping (thanks Shawn). Months later he sent me a bunch of new gaskets.

The members here are great. rancher1, thanks for the years you've put in (member #18! not many left in front of you 'cept maybe robbertaccio #10)
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top