The best way to remove broken off bolts/screws (stainless)

[duggoey]

I need to remove two snapped off stainless bolts from the WR, both look like they were way over tightened and have broken off deep in inconvenient places. One LH upper for triple clamp bolt, and one sprocket bolt in the rear hub. Generally I have just drilled them out with a conventional or reverse bit.

Any ideas?

 

[johnnyboy]

You can still drill them out just go slow, start with a nice sharp small drill bit and use plenty of lube and go slowly or your gonna burn the drill bit out, go a bit larger each time again slowly till you can get a easy out in them and job done. I personaly do not llike stainless nuts and bolts as they can gawl up real easy and are not as stong as good quality steel items.

 

[duggoey]

You can still drill them out just go slow, start with a nice sharp small drill bit and use plenty of lube and go slowly or your gonna burn the drill bit out, go a bit larger each time again slowly till you can get a easy out in them and job done. I personaly do not llike stainless nuts and bolts as they can gawl up real easy and are not as stong as good quality steel items.

Great thanks. That's exactly what I'm about to do. I agree about the stainless galling problem, for some reason though one of the many previous owners replaced the two bolts with the stainless ones that have broken off. The bike has had a few hero bush mechanic owners I think.

 

[MorrisBetter]

I use brass tubing to guide the bit in the hole. It assures that you drill in the center of the bolt. Most hobby shops sell lengths of brass tubing that the ID of one size matches the OD of the next smaller size. You can use several tubes nested inside one another to accommodate and bolt hole/bit size. Left hand drill bits can be bought at any machine shop supply. Frequently the bolt chunk will come out with just the LH bit.

 

[huskylove]

I usually try to drill the middle out a bit, then hammer a square drive bit in there or a torx bit/star bit. Hammer it in as hard as you can then try to turn it with a socket/extention and a electric impact.

Sounds like it wont work in this case.

 

[troy deck]

I need to remove two snapped off stainless bolts from the WR, both look like they were way over tightened and have broken off deep in inconvenient places. One LH upper for triple clamp bolt, and one sprocket bolt in the rear hub. Generally I have just drilled them out with a conventional or reverse bit.

Any ideas?

doesn't the sprocket bolt go all the way thou???

 

[duggoey]

Yep with a nut. Looks like it broke when someone was putting it in or removing it and just left it. Lots of stuff is in that sort of condition sadly.

 

[bigmo]

I bought a set of Craftsman bolt extractors several years back and have used them about a dozen times with good success. As long as the steel holds up, they seem to work pretty well. Basically, they are just a VERY strong backwards drill bit that takes a super sharp and very sizeable bite on the bolt. I heat and cool cycle the bolt a dozen times shocking it with a blow at the end of each cycle. I then go to work with my extractor and my mini hammer drill. I am about 90% on bolts - not bad.

 

[Clete]

I use brass tubing to guide the bit in the hole. It assures that you drill in the center of the bolt. Most hobby shops sell lengths of brass tubing that the ID of one size matches the OD of the next smaller size. You can use several tubes nested inside one another to accommodate and bolt hole/bit size. Left hand drill bits can be bought at any machine shop supply. Frequently the bolt chunk will come out with just the LH bit.

Like the brass tubing idea!

 

[Big Timmy]

Be sure to always use an Anti-Seize lubricant on any bolt threads going into Aluminum. Regardless of what it is made of, S/S, plated steel, grade 8 hardware or black oxide steel fasteners. You are setting up yourself for Dissasimilar metal corrosion. Its as simple as that. Stainless steel fasteners will almost always seize into aluminum.

Don't you use a bit of Anti-Seize on your spark plugs threads before installing them into the aluminum cylinder head? If you don't you better start. I believe more "Heli-coil" thread repair kits are sold for just the common spark plug threads sizes than all other bolt sizes combined. Thats just one common "Brand" of thread repair kits.

If you don't have a jar or tube of Anti-Seize lubricant go get some or you can use "Phillips Milk Of Magnesia". Yes it will get rid of the sour stomach also from having to use easyouts to get those broken bolts out as well. Phillips Milk Of Magnesia used to be the "Only approved assembly anti-sieze agent" back in 1992 when I earned my FAA Airmens Certificate for Airframe and Powerplant maintenance as a Mechanic Technician. Its all that was allowed on Turbine Engines in the FAA (Federal Aviation Administration) Regulations ( FARs) . Seriously, these Jet, Turbofan, Turbojet and Turboprops, Turbine sections have many, many small S/S fasteners in the circumference of the fan and turbine sections from front to back and nothing else was allowed... These hundreds of Stainless fasteners in each assembled engine will go through many thousands of thermal cycles in their lifespan during the course of operation and they very seldom break off during dissasembly.

 

[troy deck]

believe it or not i knew that

 

[duggoey]

Be sure to always use an Anti-Seize lubricant on any bolt threads going into Aluminum. Regardless of what it is made of, S/S, plated steel, grade 8 hardware or black oxide steel fasteners. You are setting up yourself for Dissasimilar metal corrosion. Its as simple as that. Stainless steel fasteners will almost always seize into aluminum.

Don't you use a bit of Anti-Seize on your spark plugs threads before installing them into the aluminum cylinder head? If you don't you better start. I believe more "Heli-coil" thread repair kits are sold for just the common spark plug threads sizes than all other bolt sizes combined. Thats just one common "Brand" of thread repair kits.

If you don't have a jar or tube of Anti-Seize lubricant go get some or you can use "Phillips Milk Of Magnesia". Yes it will get rid of the sour stomach also from having to use easyouts to get those broken bolts out as well. Phillips Milk Of Magnesia used to be the "Only approved assembly anti-sieze agent" back in 1992 when I earned my FAA Airmens Certificate for Airframe and Powerplant maintenance as a Mechanic Technician. Its all that was allowed on Turbine Engines in the FAA (Federal Aviation Administration) Regulations ( FARs) . Seriously, these Jet, Turbofan, Turbojet and Turboprops, Turbine sections have many, many small S/S fasteners in the circumference of the fan and turbine sections from front to back and nothing else was allowed... These hundreds of Stainless fasteners in each assembled engine will go through many thousands of thermal cycles in their lifespan during the course of operation and they very seldom break off during dissasembly.

The bike im talking about is a project bike, it is 16 years old and has had about 8 owners. I would never treat a bike the way it has been treated. Everything you said about steel into Al and using anti seize comound I already do, but its good for everyone to know thank you.

 

[Big Timmy]

I know you didn't break the bolts off and the bike was old and had been mistreated in the past. just putting the information out to the others. The "Phillips Milk of Magnesia' isn't well known as an anti seize agent, and can be useful when in a pinch.

 

[duggoey]

I think I know the stuff, havent heard the term milk of magnesia though, we call it Magnesium Hydroxide here. At the moment we have a few thousand litres of it as our company handles bulk chemicals. Surely they wont miss a jar of it..

 

[troy deck]

I think I know the stuff, havnt heard the term milk of magnesia though, we call it Magnesium Hydroxide here. At the moment we have a few thousand litres of it as our company handles bulk chemicals. Surely they wont miss a jar of it..

you mite wana double check that the stuff Tims talkin about is an otc anti acid ie heart burn treatment not the kinda stuff you find at a bulk chemicals outlet

 

[duggoey]

you mite wana double check that the stuff Tims talkin about is an otc anti acid ie heart burn treatment not the kinda stuff you find at a bulk chemicals outlet

The stuff we have is jokingly called industrial mylanta, mylanta is a medical antacid, milk of magnesia sounds like a common name for it?

 

[Big Timmy]

The Brand name "Phillips Milk of Magnesia" as it is called in the U.S. and is sold as since before 1900 is a laxative and assists bowel movements. It can be used to treat some stomach ailments as well. It is Magnesium Hydroxide but has a trace amount of Zinc, both of which can be beneficial to the skin so it as well can also treat Acne by drying up the oily skin. It can also be used for skin rashes and soothes sunburn even.

 

[troy deck]

The Brand name "Phillips Milk of Magnesia" as it is called in the U.S. and is sold as since before 1900 is a laxative and assists bowel movements. It can be used to treat some stomach ailments as well. It is Magnesium Hydroxide but has a trace amount of Zinc, both of which can be beneficial to the skin so it as well can also treat Acne by drying up the oily skin. It can also be used for skin rashes and soothes sunburn even.

damn Tim your a wealth of information lol