TE630 dyno results and thoughts

[DYNOBOB]

With 500+ miles and an oil change on the new bike I decided to put it on the dyno for some testing. It was eye opening and a little disappointing...

Some thoughts in no particular order.

Part of me cannot understand why you would take a new vehicle with a modern closed loop fuel injection system and turn it into a open loop "blind" system by removing the O2 sensor and plugging in a resistor. No one would buy a new car and do this. The point of a closed loop system is to monitor the AFR real time and adjust the mixture to an optimum setting, not too rich and not too lean. I realize that when you modify the exhaust/intake systems that you may need a mechanism (ie. power commander/JD tuner) to adjust the fuel delivery and compensate. However, in stock condition I have an expectation that my new vehicle is running efficiently and has good driveability. Based on what I've found I'm a little disappointed in the product Husky sent me out the door with.

Since my TE630 had the PU kit installed when I bought it new I dyno'd it in that condition first. It made ~35hp and the roughness of the graph curve made me guess it was lean. I pulled the plug out of the O2 sensor port and screwed in the O2 sensor to my Innovate LM-1 AFR meter and did some pulls watching the A/F ratio. At idle the bike was running ~14.2 afr (not horrible) and under full throttle it went to 15s and 16s (rather lean). That would explain the jagged power graph.

I had intentions all along of removing the PU kit and checking the bike with the O2 sensor back in (restoring the closed loop FI system). Note: putting the stock O2 back in meant I could no longer use the Innovate to watch A/F ratio, the exhaust pipe probe with the Innovate will not fit in the Husky exhaust. Well, it's not news that these bikes run like crap w/o the PU kit and this was evident on the dyno. Power output fell to ~30hp and the graph looks terrible. I think it's safe to say that the bike was now ungodly lean. So lean, that I think operating the bike under a hard load in higher gears for long periods of time could hurt the bike.

Reality is reality though so I'll be purchasing a PC-V or JD tuner to hopefully get this thing in the low-mid 40hp range. I'm leaning toward the JD (wish someone close by had one I could try or dyno their bike...). It burns my butt a little that I have to buy a $300 part to make my new bike run decent...I would not have to do this if I bought a F800GS or Tiger 800XC.

Here's an interesting tidbit. I did a free-air calibration of the Innovate before installing the sensor. I installed it and warmed up the bike while watching the AFR. After a few minutes I turned on the cooling fan that blows on the front of the bike and when I did the AFR went goofy (40-50). I'm guessing there is a exhaust leak somewhere so I tightened everything and found the bolts a little loose at the head. The other possibility is the AFR was affected by the cold air blowing on the header pipes (however this is a condition you'd encounter just riding the bike). Anyway, pulled the sensor and re-calibrated and it then acted better. The reason I mention this is it makes the argument for switching to a open loop system (the PU kit and JD tuner) and putting the settings where the bike runs best/makes the best hp...you'd have no exposure to the O2 sens making a faulty reading.

Anyway, there's more than you wanted to know about what I did today. Don't get me wrong, I love my TE. It checked off more boxes for me than any other on/off road bike out there and this little wrinkle can be corrected. I'll report the dyno results once the tuner is added.

A few pics of my setup.

HP

Torque

Tach signal wire is white/red stripe at ecu.

 

[Fast1]

I have to ask ... have you compared your 630 to another 630 side by side on the road to determine if there is something wrong with yours?

Did you remove the air restrictor from the intake?

The reason I say this is that there is no way in hell my 630 is only making 35 hp and performing as well as it does. I've been on enough motorcycles in my lifetime with various outputs to make this statement.

Also I can not imagine how the engine makes maximum torque at less than 5000 rpm and then drops off from there. Your chart shows that in non-power up mode the engine makes maximum torque at 3500 rpm and then drops off.. that can not be correct.. no way. The engine in non-power up mode at 3500 rpm barely has any torque to maintain speed on the highway.

 

[kirbybikes]

This is perfect timing. My bike is set up stock with restrictor removed and a PU kit. I have been thinking along the lines of what you are experimenting with reconnecting the O2 sensor. I have just picked up a JD tuner and was going to try this but do it in a more seat of the pants dyno test and then spluge on dyno runs at the end to get the final tuning. Having you run these tests will definitely help sort things out in a more scientific fashion. Good luck with the tests, wish I lived closer as this looks like fun to play with.

Kirk

 

[DYNOBOB]

Have never compared to another 630 (never even seen another 630). It does feel reasonably strong when I'm riding it.

Yes airbox divider is removed.

HP and torque always cross at 5250 rpm when overlayed (and they do so here). I printed them separate because its easier to look at. I'll put up the graph later w/ both on it. Without PU the bike is bad, bad lean. Peak TQ w/ PU is between 4-5000 which is what I'd expect. Pulls were done in 4th and I didn't roll to full throttle until after 3000. Rev limiter hits right at 8500.

Needless to say I'm not happy with 35hp. I was expecting low 40s with stock exhaust. Only other 630 dyno sheet I've seen online was a bike w/ full Leo at ~47hp I think. I'd love to see what others have dyno'd.

Some will say it's hard to dyno a bike w/ knobbies due to slippage. I don't think that was an issue here. You can tell when the tire spins or clutch slips because the graph will have a missing area. The rate of change in rpm and tire speed don't make sense to the computer and it leaves a gap in the graph.

Does anyone have a thought if changing the value of the resistor could richen it up?

.

 

[bpowa]

keep the dyno commung boys. its great to see this info. dyno runs are just so expensive here

 

[Fast1]

Yes airbox divider is removed.

.

Did you re-install the airbox divider when you tested it in stock non-power up mode?

 

[DYNOBOB]

No but that's a thought...

Combined graph

Here's the bike w/ the Leo system and mapped PCV at 47hp.

 

[Xpat]

Hello there

You may find the following interesting - I have posted some time ago the below in the JD Tuner settings thread - don't know how to cross-reference it in this thread so I just post it again:

Oi. I have got my TE630 back from dyno yesterday. They have played with JD Tuner to smooth-en the power curve (you can see dyno chart - before and after - at the end of this post). My bike has the following performance mods:

• Power up kit
• Arrows with new ECU
• Drilled airbox with EHS filter
• JD Tuner.
• 43 rear sprocket (well that is not for performance, but that was the only steel sprocket I found to replace the aluminium POS).

The bike was pulling very strongly before the dyno, however there was big dip in power/torque at about 3000 rpm and quite a bit of hesitation when I went quickly off and on throttle. This made control of the bike a bit tricky.

I have to say that have done very good job and the bikes pulls very strongly and smoothly throughout the whole rev range. The throttle hesitation and dip in the torque are completely gone. I have checked today the settings they put on the JD Tuner and I was quite surprised:

• Green - 2
• Yellow - 6
• Red - 1
• green/blue - 2.5
• Yellow/blue - 1.5
• red/blue - 1.5

I'm quite surprised that in majority of settings they went actually down compared to standard JD settings set-up. And I'm very surprised that with red at absolute minimum, the bike still pulls very well at high revs.

Based on my seat of pants dyno, I was quite disappointed to see the actual numbers (see chart below). Maximum power at the rear wheel 47 HP seems really low. However I have to qualify that a bit:

• The bike was dyno-ed in Pretoria (SA) which is at about 1500m above the see. The guys recon that at the see level it should have about 10-12% more HP. So let's say 52hp at the rear wheel.
• The bike has knobbly tyres. My understanding is that this affects the numbers and may bring 1-2 more HP. So the most optimistic scenario is 54hp at the rear wheel at the see level.

I did hope for more, considering I have basically all the TE630 performance upgrades known to mankind - but at the end of the day it is not the numbers I ride, and the bike feels really strong and smooth now.

Dyno chart:

 

[DYNOBOB]

Thanks for posting.

It looks like 47hp is about what you can expect on a modified 630. Your bike must have been rich w/ the PU and Arrow ecu, the JD was used to get the A/F to normal. Your torque curve is good (peaks at 43 ft/lbs with a large area over 40 ft/lbs) and looks like what I'd expect the shape to be. The Leo torque curve I posted doesn't make sense to me. Peaks at much higher rpm and only 36 ft/lbs? At 4500 rpm you have 43 ft/lbs and they have 32 ft/lbs. Something is weird there.

Your graph indicates 21-22% dyno correction so I suspect it is already corrected to sea level.


.

 

[alpha26]

It is disappointing that Husqvarna can't make the TE630 to perform with a closed loop system. The dual exhaust system is also a very stupid idea as it adds unecessary weight. My BMW F800GS produces 85 hp with a closed loop system and consumes a lot less fuel than my TE630. Unfortunately it weight tons more, and not as dirt capable. KTM 690 seems to have done a better job at it but it costs $4,000 more in Australia!

 

[CJBROWN]

Everyone is spot on, I agree with all of these posts. Very intuitive bunch. The arrow ECU is set to richen for their pipes so the JD tuner just fine tunes it for max output.

The graph with PU only feels like what I get, my butt-dyno. Power is fine for what I want to do with the bike though, could not be happier. And it runs like a clock - easy start hot or cold, never a cough or sputter, does not overheat, just smooth power. But it does taper off after about 5300. I normally just keep it between 4K and 5500. It just works good there.

The bike is super lean as delivered to meet pollution regs, so you have to just know and expect that. KTM's are the same way - at least the carbed bikes are/were. Unfortunately there will be a few clueless individuals that will expect it to run perfectly as delivered and could possibly experienced a shortened engine life due to overheating. Oh well, eh? That's why god invented the internet.

The GS and XC are pigs in comparison for off-pavement, and both are a LOT more money. I just don't look at my TE and think, "Gee, why isn't it like a bmw or a triumph?" Although I am thinking about a Tiger 800 or a Super Tenere for a roading tourer for 2-up. Wifey is starting to come along and enjoying our time on the Versys. It's just a bit small for the two of us.

But all of this is why the Italian motor is no more. It just cannot be made to run efficiently enough to meet EU or US emission regs. So the BMW chinese rotax knock-off is what's coming. I doubt it will make any more power, and it will probably add at least 10 lbs. plus other ancillary doo-dads you know they'll tack on as well. Expect it to be 350lbs min. I keep watching for a new TE650 announcement. Looks like it's taking longer than we expected.


EDIT: On the two cans...I suspect they were looking for a balanced look and good flow with two cats. I've gutted mine and replaced the cats and silencer with SS perf pipe, glass wrapped. It dropped about 5lbs and sounds great, plus they are cool to the touch. Or you can spend a grand to drop 10 more lbs with vince's or arrows, or about half of that for a single fmf. I'm not unhappy with the modifed factory cans, they are well built and very nice looking, especially with the gun-sight husky logo molded into the outlet caps.

 

[MotAd]

Hey mate. The other chart u posted is mine and from a 610. 630 should have more hp right? Anyway don't know much about dynos but have been reliably told tyres do affect it a bit. Twin pipes should give more airflow too so should give more hp.

 

[MotAd]

The discrepancy in torque could be due to the cc the 630 has over the 610?

 

[DYNOBOB]

Cool. I couldn't even remember where I found that chart and didn't catch that it was a 610. Well I guess that's pretty good if your 610 has similar hp to a modded 630.

I'm almost wondering if I have some bad fuel in addition to being lean. I'm going to drain and refill tomorrow and see what happens. And test it w/ the airbox divider back in. And dyno the KLX to see if it has what I expect (17-18hp).

@ CJ, I wasn't so much comparing the 630 to the BMW/Triumph as bikes, just pointing out that all 2011 bikes have to play by the same EPA rules but most run fine off the showroom floor. I think ours is a case of bad computer code not bad design. If I lived closer to a dealer I'd be talking to them about what could be done to richen it up. BTW, I sat on a S10 the other day and was surprised how light it felt.


.

 

[MotAd]

the 610 def runs lean as stock, even with PU kit fitted, my dyno chart shows that - the section at the bottom showing the fueling. that dyno chart is full system and PU kit vs full system, PC5 and custom map. they've done 2 other 610s there both with very similar results, they showed me their charts. actually one was carbed and made slightly better power once you get that leanness sorted i'm sure you will get more power but will need a JD or PC5 to do it.

 

[MotAd]

ok so my dyno shows the torque measured in ft/lbs and Xpat's is in Nm. my max torque is 36ft/lbs or 48.8 Nm which is 8 Nm behind Xpat's. Pretty sure that'll be down to the difference in cc. so the 630 has more torque but pretty much the same hp, all sounds about right.

 

[DYNOBOB]

Yep, you have to convert his Nm to ft/lbs. Yours seems down on torque more than I'd expect but if it was similar to another 610 on the same dyno then it's what it is. If however your graphs don't have the same approximate shape as another 610 than it could indicate cam timing is off. In any event, the absolute number produced on the dyno isn't as important as adjusting your settings where the bike is happiest.

I did find this chart which shows a torque curve peaking at 6300 so that must be normal for a 610.

 

[MotAd]

interesting to see that. hmmm yeah mine does seem to be a bit down on torque but there again their hp figures seem optimistic.

i love my husky but it's gotta be said, if you want a road friendly SM then the 690 is the one. still expensive over here though. in fact my husky was about £1500 cheaper than what i would've paid for a 2nd hand 690. and my husky looks a lot better

 

[pinocono]

All I can say is, good thing I don't ride a dyno.

 

[alpha26]

Here is the Dyno graph from Leo Vince - for SM630 with and without their single pipe full titanium exhaust system. Without any other modification - I think.