• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

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    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

TE511 valve cover removal tools and valve adjustment questions

Freekman

Freekman

Husqvarna
AA Class
So everybody talks about how easy it is to check valves on this bike, but it has been a nightmere for me. Probably my own fault cause I don't have a full garage of tools, but it is annoying non the less. I was able to get the cover screws out using a small ratcheting wrench. I thought maybe i could lift the cover straight off with the spark plugs attached, but there wasn't enough clearance. I also didn't have enough clearence to take the spark plug out with a socket and it was too deep to use the wrench. should I just go out and by a super shallow 8mm or do you guys use something else that I don't know about?

also I have a feeling that the valves need to be adjusted, because it usually takes a few starts to get the motor running, other than that it runs fine. can I still ride until i get the tools and shims I need or should i really just let the bike sit?

thanks
 
First thing I do before attempting something I am not familiar doing is read the manual. A set of on sale sockets and wrenches from Sears and a couple of hand tools and your good to go.. The shop manual is pretty good, take it one step
at a time, don't hurry. I have had mine off a couple of times, and yes remove the air box (lower part) and I took off
spark plug wiring and relays on the right. Be careful and take your time reinstalling, make sure gasket is properly placed.
 
Freekman said:
also I have a feeling that the valves need to be adjusted, because it usually takes a few starts to get the motor running, other than that it runs fine. can I still ride until i get the tools and shims I need or should i really just let the bike sit?

thanks
Click to expand...

I doubt that you will find the valves far enough out of adjustment that it would effect the way the bike starts. I would check the air adjustment screw and do a Throttle Position Sensor reset. And if you haven't done so you should remove the evap canister, it acts like a vacuum leak. And you should ride the bike. I doubt it will break but if it does you can fix it.
 
Radar said:
I doubt that you will find the valves far enough out of adjustment that it would effect the way the bike starts. I would check the air adjustment screw and do a Throttle Position Sensor reset. And if you haven't done so you should remove the evap canister, it acts like a vacuum leak. And you should ride the bike. I doubt it will break but if it does you can fix it.
Click to expand...
not going to lie that is what I wanted to hear
 
Freekman said:
So everybody talks about how easy it is to check valves on this bike, but it has been a nightmere for me. Probably my own fault cause I don't have a full garage of tools, but it is annoying non the less. I was able to get the cover screws out using a small ratcheting wrench. I thought maybe i could lift the cover straight off with the spark plugs attached, but there wasn't enough clearance. I also didn't have enough clearence to take the spark plug out with a socket and it was too deep to use the wrench. should I just go out and by a super shallow 8mm or do you guys use something else that I don't know about?

also I have a feeling that the valves need to be adjusted, because it usually takes a few starts to get the motor running, other than that it runs fine. can I still ride until i get the tools and shims I need or should i really just let the bike sit?

thanks
Click to expand...



No need to remove the spark plug, it can stay in and you can still easily take off the valve cover. Just unplug and take off cap/coil assembly. I never even mess with the airbox to get the valve cover out.
 
First, if you haven't done it, go to this thread.. http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/husky-shop-manuals-spec-sheets-and-more.17158/page-16#post-345226

If you don't have a cheap set of metric feeler gauges, try Harbor Freight. I used an 8mm ratcheting box wrench to get everything off as its just four bolts for the cover and one for the spark coil.
However, Radar had a good point. If you haven't tried a TPS reset, ditched the can, etc. don't go in just yet. How many miles do you have on it?

I checked mine for the first time after 1200 mi and they were exactly in the middle of spec.
 
Huskynoobee said:
First, if you haven't done it, go to this thread.. http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/husky-shop-manuals-spec-sheets-and-more.17158/page-16#post-345226

If you don't have a cheap set of metric feeler gauges, try Harbor Freight. I used an 8mm ratcheting box wrench to get everything off as its just four bolts for the cover and one for the spark coil.
However, Radar had a good point. If you haven't tried a TPS reset, ditched the can, etc. don't go in just yet. How many miles do you have on it?

I checked mine for the first time after 1200 mi and they were exactly in the middle of spec.
Click to expand...

I have like 1500 on mine now. I am less worried about them being out of spec now, but I still want to check them out. I definitely feel like it is the engine map which is kinda annoying, because I have a Bazaaz on it. So when using the bazzaz fi software should I be incresing the percentage, or lowering it. I don't really know this stuff I thought it was just plug and go and it is once im riding, but I would like it to be good all the time.
 
You either need a dyno in order to tune the Bazazz or you can get the o2 sensor and reflash your ecu, then let it run.
 
Also does the fact that the bike is only hard to start the first time make it more likely to be the valves? I still think it is probably the fuel map, but why wouldn't that effect the start up when the bike is war.?
 
I have about 1500 miles on my bike and it has always at least 2 times to start except when the bike is warm or air temp is over 100. 3 or 4 when air temp below 60. The ECU reflash didn't make much difference for me either. Based on what most guys have said on here, I hopefully won't be checking my valves for a long time :applause:
 
I think it's the fuel pump prime. If you tap the button and wait for the pump to prime and it goes through its paces,
bike will start easier. As most state bike starts good warm (fuel primed). If your valves are really tight, it will usually
Be harder to start when warmed up (metal expanded, less clearance). Mine take 2 or 3 tries if its not primed.
 
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