• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

TE511 Front wheel Play

R. Stephen

R. Stephen

Husqvarna
Pro Class
Well here goes a long story but I'm stuck and have no idea what to do

2011 TE511
warp 9 SM wheels ( brand new bearings from warp 9)
brand new husky wheel spacer

I've tried every technique I know to get the play out of the front wheel but still can not get it. tried two sets of wheels still the same issue. you can wiggle the wheel just slightly side to side. the bike only has a few hundred miles on it and the axle look mint you can still see the machining marks on it.

Anyone had similar issues or tips?

with the bearing out on the axle you can rock them slightly side to side but it is about half as much as the play in the factory wheels spacer.
 
Did you ever solve this issue. Mine moves back and forth slightly with the axle nut tight and the threaded end flush with the fork leg. It's like the spacer on the brake side is not long enough. Warp 9 wheels on txc511.
 
The factory spacer is too short, despite Warp 9 claiming ignorance to any variances in size. I spaced my preload out a couple more millimeters on the axle with a shim on the right side-when looking at the bike in front of it. that eliminated my play and I have no brake alignment issues.
 
Standard Warp 9 quality, from my experience. I have a set of their wheels, and the work fine after I figured out on my own how to fix all the factory defects, but I will never give them another dime.
 
Kyle Tarry said:
Standard Warp 9 quality, from my experience. I have a set of their wheels, and the work fine after I figured out on my own how to fix all the factory defects, but I will never give them another dime.
Click to expand...

I know I need a front wheel bearing and a longer front spacer. What else should I check?
 
You're probably good on a 511. On my 610:

-Wrong axle seals
-Wrong caliper relocation bracket
-Wrong rear brake rotor
-Wrong front brake rotor

Motostrano made some of this right. Warp 9 eventually made some of this right. Some of it, I sucked up. Live and learn.
 
58Driver said:
I know I need a front wheel bearing and a longer front spacer. What else should I check?
Click to expand...
I installed a speedo magnet from some dual sport company. It comes with the dry JB weld type stuff, a small metal bracket, and a strong magnet. The offset bracket was drilled and tapped in a location that did not marry the speedo sensor with the oem magnet on the disc. Now my speedo is about 6 mph over when Im running the 17" rims but at least it works. Other than that, axle spacing was a little off and the front wheel seals were installed on the wrong sides of the hub. Easy swap but annoying. For the price of the wheels I guess I shouldnt complain much.
 
On a fighter i built, I used rare earth magnets with regular super glue to hold the first one and ended up stacking a second one to close the gap. No glue on the second one and I tested it to 120 mph on a 17inch wheel. If you are interested I can try and find a link for you.

Im replacing bearings and seals, haven't addressed the speedo on this one yet. Thanks for the insight.
 
Same problem here checked my bike out after its 50 mile ride. And lo and behonld my front wheel wobbles left to right. And no amount of swearing or overtorquing pinch or axle bolts is helping!


I may have another 1mm shim I had to make one for the rear, so I think I remember I made 2....maybe that will get me close on the front....
 
Just for some help to others. I went and purchased a 1" id and 1 1/4" od "machine bushing" from Orchard supply and hardware. I placed this bushing on the outside of the spacers on the braking side of the bike. It went, wheel hub- factory te511 spacer - bushing/washer about 1mm thick - fork leg.

So far working perfectly but will check torque and re-tighten every ride to be sure the bearings are not "sinking" into the hub more.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top