• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

TE511 Engine Ticking Noise

Apri11

Apri11

Husqvarna
A Class
Hi, I had a few dramas of late with my particular ride (2013 TE511 - approx. 6,500km), biggest issue is the torque limiter gear bearing in the side cast casing letting go, unleashing quite a few deadly balls and metal fragments from hell into the crank case and destroying a few teeth in various gears. So after I had replaced what I thought needed to be replaced i.e. torque limiter gear, clutch basket, control gear Z=32, complete new side crankcase cover, new piston rings, gaskets etc. and reassembled the motor, the motor now has a a very evident ticking noise. The ticking noise varies upon throttle response, that is as rev's increase so does the frequency of the ticking noise. My only theory I can possibly come up with is that maybe the oil pump is not working as it should and the hydraulic cam chain tensioner is not seeing sufficient pressure maybe being the cause of the possible noise??? How would one actually test whether the oil pump is working as it should on these bikes as I can't seem to find anywhere in the workshop manual explaining how to do so? Any advice will be much appreciated.

Mods performed - ZipTy recirc kit
 
Your fellow Aussies have discovered that some 449/511 rotor bolts (I think they attach the 1-way starter clutch to the flywheel IIRC) can back out- destroying the stator and sometimes the rotor ($400+USD). It makes a very regular ticking sound.

check out this thread: http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/449-511-important-urgent-flywheel-inspection.45218/

I did not realize that the cam chain tensioner was hydraulic; I assumed it was sorta a spring/ratchet design- thanks.

There is a FB page for your bike too.
 
Trenchcoat85 said:
Your fellow Aussies have discovered that some 449/511 rotor bolts (I think they attach the 1-way starter clutch to the flywheel IIRC) can back out- destroying the stator and sometimes the rotor ($400+USD). It makes a very regular ticking sound.



check out this thread: http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/449-511-important-urgent-flywheel-inspection.45218/



I did not realize that the cam chain tensioner was hydraulic; I assumed it was sorta a spring/ratchet design- thanks.



There is a FB page for your bike too.
Click to expand...



Thanks, didn't realise this was a potential issue. I had the stator out obviously during the repairs but didn't check those bolts, although I think the issue is unrelated to my latest concerns, I will remember to have a look at these bolts :)
 
Hoping for the easy win for you. I'm sure you've got the valve train and clearances in spec after the rebuild, but a quick look under the valve cover will take care of that as a problem, plus ensuring that oil is indeed making it up top.
 
Thanks mate for your advice. I have the valves getting looked at shortly to ensure in spec, but how would I test to know whether oil is making its way up to the top? Is there an inspection screw on the side of the head I can take out to see when the bike is running for example, I can't seem to figure out and the workshop manual does seem to be much help either.....
 
There should be ample evidence of oil all over the top end thanks to the cam chain. It will be a nice coating over pretty much everything. Not heavy mind you, but certainly not dry. Since you're running the Zip-Ty oil system, you should have more than enough oil in there. You could loosen the front screen plug (don't remove) and run it for a few seconds to see if there's pressure, but that's a messy way to do it. The quick way is get it warm and stand it up straight. Look through the window on the right hand case and check for flow. No guarantee as both pumps will make oil move, but another quick check.
 
If it has run for any length of time while short on oil, it should have had an issue by now.... Motors typically don't like running on low oil pressure.

Are you confident that you found all the damaged gears during the work? If you had one damaged tooth on a gear it would make an engine speed related noise.
Is the noise still apparent when in gear with the clutch pulled, if not its in the gear train somewhere, if it continues it will be engine/ crank /clutch related.
Having had a flywheel bolt come out and eat the stator, I can vouch for an expensive sounding loud rhythmic ticking sound.
Hope that helps you.
 
Dangermouse449 said:
If it has run for any length of time while short on oil, it should have had an issue by now.... Motors typically don't like running on low oil pressure.



Are you confident that you found all the damaged gears during the work? If you had one damaged tooth on a gear it would make an engine speed related noise.

Is the noise still apparent when in gear with the clutch pulled, if not its in the gear train somewhere, if it continues it will be engine/ crank /clutch related.

Having had a flywheel bolt come out and eat the stator, I can vouch for an expensive sounding loud rhythmic ticking sound.

Hope that helps you.
Click to expand...



Thanks mate. I have actually ridden it for about 3 kilometres and the ticking noise is proportional with rpm change as well, but I do agree that the motor would have shown issues if low oil pressure is experienced, so that alone gives me a little confidence. As far as the flywheel bolts are concerned,, I will check them when I have a chance, painful pulling that stator cover off though :( There still exists some minor damaged gears in the gearbox but the worst ones that had broken teeth etc. were replaced. I just didn't see the sense in replacing every gear as the rebuild was quite expensive on it's own, plus I have about 6,500km on the clock now anyway and was confident it should be fine. The reason why I had sort of pointed towards the cam chain tensioner is that I had pulled it out the other day, cleaned it out, slightly re-oiled and put back in. When I started the bike back up, the ticking sound was not there, not until I started reving it, the noise began to return. I've since pulled back out and filled completely and pressurising the tensioner by completely submersing in engine oil by operating the tensioners piston. I had also inspected the sliders. I haven't placed back in yet though to see if any change.....
 
I've owned a mechanic's stethoscope for about 25 years. I've used it 4-5x's and it's totally worth the 8 bux I paid for it back then. It is able to pin-point noises insanely good... and I'm hard of hearing. Seems like this would be a good time to get one; I also see the price on ebay has dropped to a bit over $3 delivered in the US. You will never go back to the screwdriver-trick again... just about guaranteed.

good luck.

s-l1600.jpg
 
Trenchcoat85 said:
I've owned a mechanic's stethoscope for about 25 years. I've used it 4-5x's and it's totally worth the 8 bux I paid for it back then. It is able to pin-point noises insanely good... and I'm hard of hearing. Seems like this would be a good time to get one; I also see the price on ebay has dropped to a bit over $3 delivered in the US. You will never go back to the screwdriver-trick again... just about guaranteed.



good luck.



s-l1600.jpg
Click to expand...



A bloke at work has suggested the same funnily enough, I'll look at purchasing one I think, thanks.
 
Even a piece of hose placed up to one ear is often enough to locate the area of concern.
It's possible it's the tensioner as you mentioned...
Do you recall if it is there at all times, or only with the clutch out?

The stator cover takes about 10 mins to remove as long as you have a 14 front sprocket.... That allows you to to remove the gear lever without splitting the chain.
When the bolt ate my stator in the forest, I layed the bike on its side, pulled the cover and removed the debris from in there.
I was then able to complete 3 more hrs on the ride by swapping out batteries with my buddies
 
Dangermouse449 said:
Even a piece of hose placed up to one ear is often enough to locate the area of concern.

It's possible it's the tensioner as you mentioned...

Do you recall if it is there at all times, or only with the clutch out?



The stator cover takes about 10 mins to remove as long as you have a 14 front sprocket.... That allows you to to remove the gear lever without splitting the chain.

When the bolt ate my stator in the forest, I layed the bike on its side, pulled the cover and removed the debris from in there.

I was then able to complete 3 more hrs on the ride by swapping out batteries with my buddies
Click to expand...



The ticking noise is quite distinct. hasn't always been there. It's in the shop now though having the valves looked at, so hopefully the guys there can provide a little insight. I had bought a stethoscope as you had suggested, the noise is coming from the cam chain area, possibly from the hydraulic cam chain tensioner, still unsure though.
 
It's normal to have some gear train rattle / roll-over noise definitely, if it's a single ticking noise and it stops when the clutch is pulled, then it's unlikely be the cam chain.

Either there is a damaged gear or bearing making noise (bent gear tooth, pitted bearing etc) or there may be a clearance or thrust race issue on the crank.
(operating the clutch pushes the crank to the left of the engine)
Removing the RH engine side covers should reveal the issue.

A cam chain related noise really should not change in relation to the clutch operation.
 
Supposedly one of the valves has quite a large clearance issue, why, I still don't know. Should know a little more next week hopefully.
 
Dangermouse449 said:
It's normal to have some gear train rattle / roll-over noise definitely, if it's a single ticking noise and it stops when the clutch is pulled, then it's unlikely be the cam chain.

Either there is a damaged gear or bearing making noise (bent gear tooth, pitted bearing etc) or there may be a clearance or thrust race issue on the crank.
(operating the clutch pushes the crank to the left of the engine)
Removing the RH engine side covers should reveal the issue.

A cam chain related noise really should not change in relation to the clutch operation.
Click to expand...

local mechanic said because clutch dampers made from rubber had been loose.....
 
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