• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

TE510, What is this plug for? (wiring aftermarket dash q's)

M

Mick

Husqvarna
AA Class
Getting ready to replace my standard dash with a trailtech, and found a plug that was pretty badly damaged, and not connected to anything. Was wondering if anyone knew what it was? Is sitting next to the speed sensor wires, then runs under the tank.

wiring.jpg

wiring2.jpg


Also, Is there a preference on which radiator hose i should mount it the water temp sensor to? And what should i set the pre-warning and warning lights to? Not to sure what the specified hot range is, and my local husky dealer doesn't want a bar of it because I didn't buy the unit from him.
 
On my '06 TE450 I put the TrailTech coolant sensor in the crossover hose going to the upper right radiator. It is positioned so it sits right in the frame so the hose clamps clear the tank sides. On my TE610 the fan comes on at 210F. On my TE450 I addeda 190F switch and the fan comes on at a measured 200F reliably. My fan temp switch is on the right radiator, same as the hose coolant sensor. I set the coolant temp warning at 195 to tell me my fan is running. The danger setpoint is set to 210F which means my fan is not working or doing the job.

I have a thread in this forum on my install.

I am not sure what the dead end plug you have is, but I figure it could be one of the resistors for fuel level current limit or one other, I forget. Since your frame is silver, I am assuming you have an 06 or 07 year bike?
 
That dead-end plug might be for installing the on/off switch for changing between SEL1 and SEL2, maybe, I'm not an expert on it.
 
It is an '07 so is carb'd.

It can't be fuel level as mentioned in my previous post, there is none on the TE450, I was thinking about my TE610. So rule that out.

I have and 06 and 07 TE450 here and just took a look at them. The wires are blue and pink. The cap is an empty plug cover, there is nothing in it. So it does nothing for you but keep the plug clean.

Looking at the schematic drawing, pink and blue in the area of the headlamp and speedo show part 29, "Scroll". This might be a connection for a remote handlebar speedo pushbutton to change the display, the same as the rubber button on the speedo. I will have to look at this more and try it. The pink wire goes to position #15 on the speedo connector. Blue is ground.

Adjacent to Scroll part 29 is part 28, "Velocity". It is the connection to the speedo rotor sensor for speed input.

So you do not need to worry about the damaged plug cover, no harm.
 
Beauty! Thanks for your help K7, very informative. Will continue with this install after I've fixed a few other things.

The first trip out today was a nightmare. Within 20 mins it overheated, let it cool, then it wouldn't start, normally, or with hot start. Flattened battery. Finally got it started on the kicker, took it back to the car, pulled the tank, tightened a loose radiator hose, topped up the coolant and off we went again.

Dropped it, broke rear right indicator.

We all got in to a bit of strife at the bottom of a hill, (there has been flooding recently, and there are washouts where there wasn't before) Overheated again. Let cool, wouldn't start again. We Had to carry out the TE, a WR450, and a G450X, broke off my number plate and holder carrying it over rocks. Got it started eventually with the hot start, then in coughed, and stopped on a hill. Dropped it, broke left rear indicator. Half an hour of kicking, waiting and kicking again and off it went, back to the car. Overheated again whilst sitting next to car.

Left tank boiling, right tank cold to touch. Will be getting some silicone hoses and a Y piece asap.

Both my bike and the WR did this constantly. The BMW didn't sputter once, and started every time. Which is good, because it doesn't have a kicker.
 
Both sides should be hot, even with the stock setup. Something is not right there. Make sure your overflow tank has plenty of coolant left in it.

See my thread http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/cooling-fan-on-a-06-te450-with-4g-ims-tank.13372/ for ideas adding a fan and fan switch. If you have the stock tank, you can use a pull fan on the back of the right radiator.

My '07 is stock cooling setup, no fan and seems to work OK, rarely overheating so far, even with the IMS tank on it recently. It has the stock louvers in front, my 06 had rad guards in front. I believe those louvers make a huge difference for the better.
 
Pretty sure it's due to the T piece flowing directly through to the left radiator. I'll try the Y piece and some new hoses. Would there be any benefit from running a small sucker fan on either side, or is it unnecessary?
Should have added, no louvers, it has radiator guards. Not that flow would have helped a whole lot at walking (or less than) pace.
 
I have found the louvers work, the rad guards required I put a fan on. At first I thought my oversize tank was the bigger reason for my single track overheating. I had rad guards and switched to a Y and engine ice, but no real change. The fan kicks in regularly. Flow is good. I have a temp guage to watch it.

When we got the '07 in stock form, no rad guards, louver installed, it did not overheat (no steam shooting out hte overflow tank) on the same singletrack where my '06 fan kicked in regularly. Later we added the oversize tank to the '07, and in Moab in varying temps and conditions, never overheated. It is the stock Tee. Not tight single track so not completely apple and apples, but still did lots of sand and rock steps and slow stuff up to 80F.

At this point I think the way to go with an oversize tank is a frame style rad guard and stock louvers, might not need a fan. If stock tank, can easliy put a puller fan on the back.
 
Stock tank, I'm going to replace the standard hoses with silicon and the T with a Y, then whack a sucker on the back of each radiator on a hard switch. That should solve the problem.

Anyone know what the compression spec is for this model? Wouldn't mind sticking the tester on it tonight and seeing how it goes. Have googled to no avail.
 
I doubt you will ever have need for more than one 4" fan (like the common SPAL). I suggest using a thermo switch rather than a manual switch to prevent running down your battery. If you are busy riding technical stuff when you need it on and off frequently, without a temp monitor you will not know when to use it until it is too late, and when to shut it off. Further, paying attention to it (with monitor or not) manually is a big distraction to your riding experience. I did this for a while, then finally put a thermo switch (very inexepnsive) and now I do not hardly think about it anymore. Much nicer. See my link for the part number and methos. It is very easy to do "right" the first time. You will be happier, and the fan will only run when it has to. I would prioritize the fan/thermo switch over new hoses for impact for your dollar. I run stock hoses, have no problem. I did change out the top cross over hose for FI hose.
 
I'm also wanting to know about this plug on my 07 te510? i thought it would have to do something with the scroll on the speedo to go through the functions of the speedo but when connecting it to a wire and a switch it did not do anything to change the functions on the speedo. Any one figured it out yet? Also my Neutral light doesn't work and have tried many things to fix it but cannot seem to get it to work when i'm in neutral - however the neutral light does come on after disconnecting the main fuse for about 2 mins then plugging it back in. When the fuse is plugged back in after about 2mins the speedo goes through a test phase of which the neutral light turns on for a few seconds. Anyone know how to fix this neutral light problem? Please help
 
RE Scroll switch: I have not looked at it any further myself.

As far as the neutral switch goes, there is a rotary switch in a black plastic cover that switches in different resistance values for each gear. It is located on the transmission cover down low. I would make sure the wiring does not look damaged, and if good, I would hook up an ohm meter and measure the resistance for each gear against the spec in the service manaul. Another method is to measure the voltage (bike turned on) to the speedo connector. Should show distinct voltage steps.
 
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