• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
    TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

TE510 Top End Gaskets

RideLI631

Husqvarna
AA Class
Alright, My te510 09 has a slow base gasket leak from the front left corner of my motor where the cylinder meets the case. Got a full top end gasket kit in the mail yesterday. Just asking for some advice from anyone who has torn down this style of motor. I know you can't pull the head unless the motor is out of the frame, or if you vice grip the studs out of the cases. I'm just wondering if there's anything anyone would care to share like, any issues they had or mistakes they made before I go and pull my top end apart.Torque specs? Any specific procedure for re-torquing the head? Any bolts that specifically should be locktited. Should i use gasket sealer.These bikes have auto can chain tensioner right? Bike only has 120 miles on it and runs like a dream so no internals need to be replaced or anything. I'm a little bummed cause the bike runs perfect but in the back of my head I know that it's oozing oil out of that leak whenever I ride. OHR help me out I know you have torn your 450 apart before. I'm going to flat iron test the cylinder and case to make sure it's not warped but I'm 90% sure it's not. When you run a razor blade along the seem you can clearly see and feel where the piece of gasket is missing. Any knowledge muchhhh appreciated! Will post pics when I get into it.
 
Anyone here use gasket dressing spray ? We use blue Hylomar
spray on all our VW diesels and they seal up perfectly, no more
premature oil leaks. Also available in tube.

As for opening up your motor Ride LI cleanliness and order is everything.
Get someone experienced to hold your hand if it's your first.
No need to get bummed, just plan it out and do the research.
Work patiently.
 
Just did mine (Cylinder and head gaskets) using factory parts. No issues, pretty easy to do, and runs great.

I did pull the motor from the frame though.
 
First thing from my own perspective: if the leak is small, don't sweat it, wipe it down and just ride it.

Next: if you tear it down, take the ACCT apart so that you can count the clicks that it is pushing the tensioner, this is so you can track how worn the chain gets over time.

Next thing: get the cams at TDC and mark them somehow or look at the dimples on the left side of the cams and photograph them, so you can get the cam timing exactly where it was originally. When you get the cams out, try re-torquing the head bolts, following the manual. Don't loosen them just get the torque wrench on the final torque setting and start there, see if any of them are loose, especially the front left. If they are loose, get them to spec and re-intall the cams and try riding it some more, see if the leak is cured.

Lastly, if you decide to tear it down, try to remove the wrist pin from the conrod and leave the piston and rings installed in the cylinder, removing that as one piece, unless you are an expert at getting a ringed piston back into the cylinder without breaking the rings!

017s.jpg
 
Will definitely count the clicks on the ACCT.

I have already re-torqued the head once to no avail :( still leaks.

Thanks for the heads up with leaving the piston in the cylinder. I have some ring compressors around from when I built 450cc quad motors back a few years ago but nothing that will fit this fat ass 510 piston I believe. I should get into it in the next few days ill post some pics and an update when I do.
 
Pay an AMAZING amount of attention to which way the base gasket goes on. It will happily fit upside down...for about an hour...until the cam chain chews the front edge of it to pieces.
Then you get to replace it, again. (by then you should be very adept at pulling the motor :banghead: )

If you do drop the piston out of the jug - you don't need a ring compressor to remount. Offset your ring gaps, start the jug on the studs, use both hands to compress the rings with your fingertips - and the jug will slide right down. A little film of oil in the jug will help. First time I did it I spent an hour trying to get the compressor to fit/work - and 30 seconds doing with my hands.
 
I ended up making a ring compressor from a roughly 5" diameter of aluminum; pulled from a HVAC cover i got at home depot. Bend the ends 90 degrees, and used vice grips to secure the item around the pistons. Very cheap, but maybe the finger idea would have been better.

I looked at standard ring compressors, but i needed a way to get it off the rod once the barrel was over it. Was thinking of trying an oil filter wrench that i could take apart.
 
Sooo what's wrong here....

image.jpg

image.jpg

Got the motor out in less then 2 hours. Pulled the cylinder off and what do you know the base gasket is on upside down... Internals look mint so I don't think the previous owner is responsible. I'm leaning towards a manufacturer defect. BS if you ask me haha. I will take some shots of it torn apart tomorrow when I re-assemble it. Really was a breeze getting it torn down no more then 3 hours from first plastic to cylinder removal
 
The OEM head gaskets I get are 24.95 you might want to but elsewhere if you are being charged $50, I know you like saving money.
 
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