• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
    TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

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TE510 and Rekluse autoclutch

kjclark7

Husqvarna
AA Class
just looking for feedback from anyone who has a 08-10 te510 and a rekluse autoclutch. it seems that there are mixed reviews with the rekluse on husky's but i have not found many reviews (good or bad) with the 08-10 te510's.
the guys with the ktm's seems to really like the rekluse clutch so i'm hoping they work just as good on our husky's. its definately on my list to get if its all cracked up to what its supposed to be. i see that there are some issues with guys with the newer 310's in the last few weeks, but is that a small percentage of guys or a majority that have issues?
 
I've got a Rekluse in both my 2005 TE510-now my supermoto and my 2009 TE450. Both have the Z-start Pro, zero problems with either. Auto clutches aren't for everybody and took me a while to get used to, it's something you just have to try and give it a chance to see if you like it. I can't see any reason a Rekluse would work any different in different brands.
 
I've never heard that they don't work in Husky's, either. And I've got a Z-Start Pro in my 09 TE 450... works great. I like them. Also have one in my KTM200 woods bike.
 
2006 TE510 with Rekluse Z-Start Pro. Took me a while to set it up properly, now it's working good. Best to start with a new set of clutch friction plates and a properly jetted bike - as low idling speed as possible and consistent whether hot or cold.
I am also using 7 thicker friction plates instead of the oem 8 pcs - find it easier for downshifting the gear.
 
i didn't mean that they don't work on husky's but there have been a bunch of threads on here about them not working right on 310's specifically. i just wanted to see if there were many guys on here that use them on the 510's, especially the 08-10's.
what are the cons of a autoclutch and is there really hard to get used to?
are you able to pull the clutch in like a normal clutch and kill the power?
 
kJ,
I have a Rekluse z-start installed in my 07 450 TE. Simply put, AWESOME****************************************!
I live in Vermont and we ride quite a bit of steep, tight, wet, rocky, single track, don't get me wrong, there is plenty of incredible 5th 6th gear double track as well, but the auto doesn't make much difference in that stuff.
It will change your world in technical terrain....
Easy breezy to install and adjust, the kit was dialed, well marked and the directions are well done. Thumbs up to Rekluse !!
The Z-start is infinitely adjustable, just swap a spring or the ball bearing configuration and you can have the clutch engage anywhere you want it to, from 1400-2000 rpm.
I do recommend having relatively fresh(within tolerance) clutch friction plates and a fairly well tuned bike, especially on the low end. If you have a controllable idle (with idle screw) somewhere in the 1500-1800 range with no major gaps in the acceleration, thats a good starting place,not mandatory for the clutch to work, but it will help if you want to fine tune the clutch to your riding style.
Some call them cheaters, some say they are for old men, some say why?
I say the technology is Sweet and well executed, I am an old man and the only game I would be cheating at, is the game of me not adhering to rule #4 - keep the shiny side up...

There are two problems 1-you have to figure out what to do with your left hand, it has been very involved with your riding up until now and he it seems kind of pissed that his job has been downgraded from the senior VP of power dispersant and traction, to the assistant to thing that holds the knucklehead to the bike.
The second and more serious problem... Left hand controls, what to do?
I'm keeping mine stock and ready to go, so if I ever want to switch back to a standard clutch i can do it in 20 min not 4 hours.
Hey have you seen those sweet left hand rear brake kits, mmmmmm maybe I have to rethink that whole stock left hand control thing.

I do love this forum, The people have helped and saved me a thousand times over****************************************!!
Happy trails.
 
Most of the problems I've read about are for the EXP. I read there is a problem of slippage, especially on big bore bikes. I had an EXP core on my TXC250 and it was ok, I like the z-pro much better. It looks like Rekluse is only focusing on the EXP for the new bikes coming out.
 
kJ,
I have a Rekluse z-start installed in my 07 450 TE. Simply put, AWESOME!
I live in Vermont and we ride quite a bit of steep, tight, wet, rocky, single track, don't get me wrong, there is plenty of incredible 5th 6th gear double track as well, but the auto doesn't make much difference in that stuff.
It will change your world in technical terrain....
Easy breezy to install and adjust, the kit was dialed, well marked and the directions are well done. Thumbs up to Rekluse !!
The Z-start is infinitely adjustable, just swap a spring or the ball bearing configuration and you can have the clutch engage anywhere you want it to, from 1400-2000 rpm.
I do recommend having relatively fresh(within tolerance) clutch friction plates and a fairly well tuned bike, especially on the low end. If you have a controllable idle (with idle screw) somewhere in the 1500-1800 range with no major gaps in the acceleration, thats a good starting place,not mandatory for the clutch to work, but it will help if you want to fine tune the clutch to your riding style.
Some call them cheaters, some say they are for old men, some say why?
I say the technology is Sweet and well executed, I am an old man and the only game I would be cheating at, is the game of me not adhering to rule #4 - keep the shiny side up...

There are two problems 1-you have to figure out what to do with your left hand, it has been very involved with your riding up until now and he it seems kind of pissed that his job has been downgraded from the senior VP of power dispersant and traction, to the assistant to thing that holds the knucklehead to the bike.
The second and more serious problem... Left hand controls, what to do?
I'm keeping mine stock and ready to go, so if I ever want to switch back to a standard clutch i can do it in 20 min not 4 hours.
Hey have you seen those sweet left hand rear brake kits, mmmmmm maybe I have to rethink that whole stock left hand control thing.

I do love this forum, The people have helped and saved me a thousand times over!!
Happy trails.


thanks for your feedback. i'm kinda lost when you mention about the clutch engaging from 1400-2000 rpm? do you mean that if your idle is set at 1400 and your clutch closer to 2000 then there will be a lag before you start to go?
if thats the case, i would think you would want the two pretty close to each other, prob just a few hundred rpm's higher than the idle right?
as far as the stock clutch lever, can you still pull it all the way in while going and kill the power...(eg. if you have whiskey throttle, just pull the clutch in to save yourself)?
as far as the terrain i ride, i'm in northern nj and its full of steep rocky hills and great single track.
maybe it was the exp that guys were having issues with.
this may be the next thing on my list for the bike!
 
kJ,
When I said
"The Z-start is infinitely adjustable, just swap a spring or the ball bearing configuration and you can have the clutch engage anywhere you want it to, from 1400-2000 rpm.
I do recommend having relatively fresh(within tolerance) clutch friction plates and a fairly well tuned bike, especially on the low end. If you have a controllable idle (with idle screw) somewhere in the 1500-1800 range with no major gaps in the acceleration, thats a good starting place,not mandatory for the clutch to work, but it will help if you want to fine tune the clutch to your riding style."

I meant that you can adjust the clutch to engage at any rpm you want it to. Meaning if your bike is jetted and idled to 1500 rpm you can adjust the clutch to engage at 1550, 1600, ,1700 etc the higher revving motocross riders like them to engage at higher rpm 1800,1900,2000. There is only lag if you want it. Wherever your bike idles you can make the clutch come in just above that
My bike idles at 1500 rpm and with a pretty much infinitely adjustable clutch I have it engage at about 1600 which means when I touch the throttle I'm moving.
the hydraulic clutch still Works, so yes if you have whisky grip you can pull the clutch and save yourself.

as to 510's question, yes you still have engine / compression Braking, but better..
You can lock the rear wheel with out stalling cause the clutch disengages and then you can freewheel or a little throttle and the clutch reengages for full engine braking.
 
I have Rekluse Zstart pros in two of my bikes and a Zstart in another, so obviously I'm a fan of them. I have talked to tech support several times when setting them up. The thing that seems to come up consistantly is that to eliminate slippage, heat and disc wear, tuning the clutch for good solid lockup is important. Setting your disc gap correctly and having the bike just barely trying to creep at idle help insure solid lockup. Like what has been pointed out, by changing springs and ball configurations there is alot of tunability. The instructions are very good and easy to understand.
When I put the first one in I didn't really know what I wanted and ended up changing the setup several times. I really think some (at least) of the people who try a Rekluse in their bike and don't like it, haven't taken the time to adjust it and get it the way they'd like it.
 
well i just orderd one and it should be here next week.
then i gotta figure out the install process and tuning. i've got an 08, i wonder if i can adjust the idle easily?
i wonder if i should get a new set of friction disks. how much do they go for?
 
well i just orderd one and it should be here next week.
then i gotta figure out the install process and tuning. i've got an 08, i wonder if i can adjust the idle easily?
i wonder if i should get a new set of friction disks. how much do they go for?
Get new disks! With new friction plates the gap should be about perfect with a new Rekluse if you follow the instructions. OEM clutch disks are way over priced, they are the same as many Honda clutches, if you get a clutch kit for a 2009 CRF450 they will fit and save you $150. I just replaced mine and got the Tusk kit from Rocky Mountain for $50 (the drive plates wont fit, just the friction plates).
 
I caled my local dealer today and they said that i would have to purchase a kit (frictions and drive ) and that would cost $150. He said that i couldn't just buy the frictions. So what other bikes will be the same fit as my 2008
te510
 
for those of you who installed the zstart pro, how many had to replace the clutch basket? and if so, how many hours/miles were on the bike?
 
I installed the Z-pro at 3000 miles. Original clutch and basket looked like I had never run the motor, although I am admittedly not a very aggressive rider. Packaged it up and put it on the shelf for if/when I sell the bike.

The Z-pro I installed was purchased used with a claimed 800 miles on it. Was in perfect condition except for the replacement Rekluse INNER clutch hub: The inner splines were almost gone and it rattled on the mainshaft in an unacceptable way.

I called Rekluse to find that there is an "A" revision and now a "B" revision to their inner hub, although they could not tell by looking at it what that revision was. Anyway - had to purchase a new inner hub and now all is well - fits appropriately snugly on the shaft and the Z-pro is awesome. Running Mobil 1 15w-50 since the original fill was dumped at 200 miles.
 
i checked my clutch basket today and did not see or feel any notching. i also ordered a set of rekluse crf450r friction plates to use when the zstart pro arrives. hope they both come together so i don't have to wait to install.
 
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