• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

TE310R Running Breaking in procedures

SiberianHusky

SiberianHusky

Husqvarna
C Class
I'm still working on breaking in my awesome new ride (i dont have much free time lately), so I've been doing it on the road. My question is what method do you use? There is sooooo much disinformation online, "run it in HARD or it will never reach full power", "be gentle never reach more than 75% for the first 10 hours", "Don't ride at any particular RPM for more than 10 seconds for the first 4 hours". What method do you all prefer? I try to follow manuals usually but to honest I rode my last bike (KTM 300EXC) like I stole it from day one and it was nothing but perfect on every ride. Opinions?
 
I rode mine from the beginning (22 miles on the odo) the same as I ride it now, except no single track for a few hundred miles, just so I could keep the tight engine cool. I opened it up early, I kept moving, I ran it up to redline, I rode it pretty hard. I've got almost 15,000 miles on it now.
 
On my 2012 I just took it easy for the first hour, changed the oil, and stayed under 7,500 RPM for the next 4 hours, changed the oil again, and no restrictions after that. I used a filter magnet after the first oil change, but not after the second. There just wasn't that much on it.
 
All things in moderation. Yes, you need pressure from combustion to seat the rings properly, which requires some application of throttle, but you also don't want to overheat the wear surfaces during break in. There are also other components in the lower end and transmission that will appreciate you taking things easy for the first hour or so. That said...your bike...break it in however you see fit.
 
While the "break it in hard" method may be fine for some machines, I would not recommend you do that to your TE310R. Just ride it normally and change the oil at 30, 100 and 300 mile intervals with a high quality synthetic oil. We run 0W40 Mobil 1 in all of our 310's here at ZipTy, but there are many great oils to choose from. After your warranty period, remap the efi to allow richer and cooler engine temperatures.
 
I like the break it in like you stole it method because it is waaayy too hard to putter around on a new bike that wants to rip. That being said I rode mine pretty normal, kept the revs below 7500 (I think) but other than that I rode the same trails at the same pace. My 310r stalled really easily in the first 30mins of the first ride but once it loosened up it got a lot better. The more I ride it the better it gets and the more I love it!
 
Tinken said:
While the "break it in hard" method may be fine for some machines, I would not recommend you do that to your TE310R. Just ride it normally and change the oil at 30, 100 and 300 mile intervals with a high quality synthetic oil. We run 0W40 Mobil 1 in all of our 310's here at ZipTy, but there are many great oils to choose from. After your warranty period, remap the efi to allow richer and cooler engine temperatures.
Click to expand...


+1

Modest revs, keep it moving (avoid hill climbs, mud bogs, etc).... Do a couple of 20-30 min sessions of this then do that first oil change....after that ride normally and follow Tinkens maintenance recommendations.
 
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