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Hi everyone,
As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.
When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.
Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.
Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.
Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.
Thanks for your patience and support!
TE310R rear axle stuck
- Thread starter 310 newb
- Start date
Yeah, i thought about that too, but I dont know if you can see in the pics, but the sides of the chain are worn too.. the outer links are chamferred and the rivets are worn. One side more than the other admittedly, but i thing the guide block is worn too deep that it is enveloping the whole chain and its getting to the point there are ridges that reach between the links up into the o-rings. Ive ordered a new one.
Ok, just a sanity check; that is with the back wheel off the ground, yeah?
shawbagga
Husqvarna
Pro Class
Nah I just do it on static stand(partial weight off suspension but not fully off ground)
NCSteve
Husqvarna
Pro Class
Me too except I do it with the bike on the stand. Easy to confirm it's right with bike on the ground, belly on the seat, reach down and check chain slack. Same here, been doing it this way forever without issue
Ok so the RHK* chain guide, is pretty much dimensionally identical to the stock guide, except due to lack of wear it has exacerbated the problem of lifting the chain up against the larger rear sprocket due to lack of wear (the stock one is nearly finished, maybe 5mm left to go?
Is this kind of savage angle normal?
If i pull the chain taut to create a straight line, it seems the guide needs to go down a good 20-25mm for it to rest against the chain gently.
I can make up brackets but it seems like a lot of unnecessary naffing around, although if i did I could just get a new OEM guide and be done with it.
Or am I being overly fussy? Is it normal for the guide to lift the chain that much? It seems like there would be quite a lot of force acting between the block and the chain at that kind of angle.
*RHK Taiwanese made, about the only aftermarket parts you can get over here. Market is flooded with them. Seems ok quality, the blocks are milled from the proper nylon plastic. Much less friction than the stock one. The stock one really wants to grab the chain when i slide it over by hand.
Just wondering if the TM Designs chain guides mount a bit lower to accomodate a bigger sprocket? I could swear the OE one is designed for the 40t sprocket.
Is this kind of savage angle normal?
If i pull the chain taut to create a straight line, it seems the guide needs to go down a good 20-25mm for it to rest against the chain gently.
I can make up brackets but it seems like a lot of unnecessary naffing around, although if i did I could just get a new OEM guide and be done with it.
Or am I being overly fussy? Is it normal for the guide to lift the chain that much? It seems like there would be quite a lot of force acting between the block and the chain at that kind of angle.
*RHK Taiwanese made, about the only aftermarket parts you can get over here. Market is flooded with them. Seems ok quality, the blocks are milled from the proper nylon plastic. Much less friction than the stock one. The stock one really wants to grab the chain when i slide it over by hand.
Just wondering if the TM Designs chain guides mount a bit lower to accomodate a bigger sprocket? I could swear the OE one is designed for the 40t sprocket.
shawbagga
Husqvarna
Pro Class
It's the chain guide, as in guides the chain onto rear sprocket so doesn't derail. All the drive force/torque goes through the chain above swingarm, below is generally slack so won't stress it much at all. Danger is bending chain guide from rocks/crashes so not aligned with rear sprocket properly. Just ride it!
Trenchcoat85
Husqvarna
Pro Class
your wheel is too far forward. move it back or get a smaller sprocket.
^ yeah I know. Im waiting on a master link. Local parts desk took 4 hours to get back to me so bought one online from the other side of the island-continent lol. Hasnt arrived yet.
Like buggalugs says, I think ill just ride the effin thing lol. On a side not it turns out the tabs on the swing arm are holding both chain guides outboard waay too far to the point the chain drags on the inboard side and doesnt ride on the "gunsight" at all. Looks like a job for the big shifting spanner. Funny thing is there are no signs of damage or big hits,, and even if there were it should be bent the other way.
The tabs themselves look like they are cut from an extruded section and welded on,, pretty hard to get wrong. Maybe this one was welded on a friday afternoon?
Like buggalugs says, I think ill just ride the effin thing lol. On a side not it turns out the tabs on the swing arm are holding both chain guides outboard waay too far to the point the chain drags on the inboard side and doesnt ride on the "gunsight" at all. Looks like a job for the big shifting spanner. Funny thing is there are no signs of damage or big hits,, and even if there were it should be bent the other way.
The tabs themselves look like they are cut from an extruded section and welded on,, pretty hard to get wrong. Maybe this one was welded on a friday afternoon?
Trenchcoat85
Husqvarna
Pro Class
chain guide: if it's rubbing on the side, it could be for one or more reasons: mounting tabs are bent, it's mounted wrong, or the sprockets or axle spacers are mounted wrong. I think on your xlite the spacers (with the lips) are the same for both sides.
if the slider is rubbing: wrong slider or one of the above problems.
my '14 came with a 40z rear sprocket and the stock chain guide handles a 52z just fine.
if the slider is rubbing: wrong slider or one of the above problems.
my '14 came with a 40z rear sprocket and the stock chain guide handles a 52z just fine.
Ok thanks. Yeah that is pretty much all ive been asking for the most part of this thread. 40t to 50t is a pretty big size difference though. Did the tc's and txc's come with the same guide? I believe they came with a 50t stock where as the te came with a 40t and an optional 50t included.?
As to the guide brakets being skewed, it actually works in my favour if i decide to make a braket.. it looks like i can simply bolt a 5mm aluminium plate to one side of both brackets.
Will wait until i have my extra link to put the axle where its supposed to be first though. Been flat out with work and next ride is not next week but the week after (i think?) so not in much of a hurry lol.
Trenchcoat85
Husqvarna
Pro Class
not only will you need an extra master link, but you'll need an inner female link to connect it. press out the pins of a compatible used chain, get some o-rings (don't worry about about x-ring or z-ring or whatever) fill the center with a dab of grease and you're good.
TC and TXCs used the same guide.
TC and TXCs used the same guide.
rschneider
Husqvarna
AA Class
I have the TM Deisgns block on mine with a 52 sprocket. I can confirm that it pulls the chain up slightly as well. I run my rear axle almost all the way back so it is not quite as bad. I was kind of surprised at how short the wheel base on the these bikes is. Right after I got it, I had my buddies RMZ250 loaded in my truck next to it and the wheel base was probably about an inch longer on the RMZ than the TXC. I never actually measured it, but it was very noticeable. For me, the bike seems to get better front end traction with the axle farther back.