• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

TE310R rear axle stuck

3

310 newb

Husqvarna
A Class
Ok so I procured a nice set of Talon sprockets and DID x-ring chain to replace to OE equipment that is still on.
Had to blow-torch the rear sprocket nuts to soften the thread lock as the spokes get int the way of anything other than an open ender (already ruined one open ender prior)
Front sprocket nut came off ok with the pneumatic rattle gun.

BUT the rear axle just wont come out. I've managed to get it flush with the RHS swing arm as thats as far as i could go using a soft drift and a BFH.

No amount of pulling, jiggleing, twisting yelling or swearing will get this bitch to come out 1mm more.
I even busted out the slide hammer (a BIG one) even though i was reluctant to use it and that has zero effect either.
Any tips?
The workshop manual seems pretty useless, it simply says undo axle nut and remove axle.
I think whatever grease was in there has turned to glue.
Makes me worry about all the other moving parts in the suspension although everything seems tight and zero play.

Bike has about 1300km of mud use but i suspect the PO never touched it apart from oil, filters and cleaning.
 
Ok I got it out. Bombed it with wd40, bashed it back in again, bashed it back out and finnished it off with the slide hammer using a bit of aggro this time.
Nothing in the way of grease in there, just rusty dirt. Ive worked on a couple bikes before, and this one is the newest, cleanest and least ridden by far but never experienced this before.
Hopefully it was just negligence on the dealers part when they put the 50t on, and the swingarm pivots arnt the same, although there is no play anywhere. Might order a bunch of bearings and do a bit of a teardown after the next ride. At least the axle should come out in a civilized manner next time
 
^ yeah my thoughts too. Whoever did the last tyre change must have been a bit of a cowboy putting the axle in dry like that. I would imagine all the other bearings and grease are OG Italian 2013 vintage.
Might invest in full set of bearings so they are there when i need them. Qick google and "All Balls" bearings are readily available. $99 for full swingarm kit. Are they any good?
 
All Balls Products are fine. Nothing lasts forever on a dirt bike. Water and dirt eventually get past all seals.
I check and re-grease all bearings and seals at least annually.
 
^Thanks lads, will shop around and see. Would like to get new bearings in there sooner than later. Ok so, there was some unusual wear on the chain. Along the sides. Pins are worn down, the links bevelled, and the master clip worn down so its like a razor blade. Hard to see in the pics but its substantial.
All the sliders look ok, I can only put it down to the lower chain guide/guard whatever you want to call it. It almost looks like it was designed for the 40t rear not the 50t that came as an oem option and been on for the life of the bike so far. Ive got a 52t on there now.
It looks like it needs to be at least an inch lower with this sprocket. Is this normal? Before i go and try to fab up a bracket to lower it down, is there something on the after market that suits bigger sprockets?chain guard 006.jpgchain guard 007.jpg
 
Also check the chain slider for wear. The outer chain links should not be touching the slider. The picture below is an example of a slider in new condition.
Beta 020-330150-000.jpg
 
310 newb said:
^Thanks lads, will shop around and see. Would like to get new bearings in there sooner than later. Ok so, there was some unusual wear on the chain. Along the sides. Pins are worn down, the links bevelled, and the master clip worn down so its like a razor blade. Hard to see in the pics but its substantial.
All the sliders look ok, I can only put it down to the lower chain guide/guard whatever you want to call it. It almost looks like it was designed for the 40t rear not the 50t that came as an oem option and been on for the life of the bike so far. Ive got a 52t on there now.
It looks like it needs to be at least an inch lower with this sprocket. Is this normal? Before i go and try to fab up a bracket to lower it down, is there something on the after market that suits bigger sprockets?View attachment 89701View attachment 89702
Click to expand...

chain guide: you probably need two more links in your chain; your axle looks pretty far forward (hows your mud flap wearing?). you might run your chain a bit looser too (hard to tell on your pic).

inspect the chain guide (after-market?) to see if it's pushed off-center, from a fall for example. If it is after-market, make sure it's the right one for an xlite like your bike.

Chain guide keeps the chain on the sprocket; chain slider keeps the chain off the swingarm pivot.
 
Thanks. Yes funny you mention that now i just came back out of the garage thinking the same thing. i think i should have taken two less links off the chain now too, and yes it was too tight (i adjusted it on the stand) now have adjusted it properly and the stops are a bee's dick from all the way in but the slop is fine, 35mm at 145 from the pivot with the bike weighted so axle, sprocket and pivot are in a straight line.
Havnt ridden it like this yet but i dont want to wreck my mud flap. Silly thing is ive only gone 2 teeth up and the same amount of links but adjustment was about in the middle before-- difference between new and worn and stretched?
Al the guards and sliders are OE as far as i can tell. The chain definitely rides on the slider to an extent when the chain is right, but looks like only the chain rollers contact, not the links. The guard on the other hand.... Just seems too high to me. It literally lifts the chain up.
 

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310 newb said:
Thanks. Yes funny you mention that now i just came back out of the garage thinking the same thing. i think i should have taken two less links off the chain now too, and yes it was too tight (i adjusted it on the stand) now have adjusted it properly and the stops are a bee's dick from all the way in but the slop is fine, 35mm at 145 from the pivot with the bike weighted so axle, sprocket and pivot are in a straight line.
Havnt ridden it like this yet but i dont want to wreck my mud flap. Silly thing is ive only gone 2 teeth up and the same amount of links but adjustment was about in the middle before-- difference between new and worn and stretched?
Al the guards and sliders are OE as far as i can tell. The chain definitely rides on the slider to an extent when the chain is right, but looks like only the chain rollers contact, not the links. The guard on the other hand.... Just seems too high to me. It literally lifts the chain up.
Click to expand...

That's TOO much slack in the chain, I believe.

The 35mm spec is usually for an unloaded suspension. When everything is aligned, you want the chain to be slightly taut. Actually, I go a little looser; and I will factor in mud at times too.

If you want, align everything, adjust the the tension to where you think it should be, and then with the suspension relaxed, measure the chain slack and use that number. That is how engineers at the factory do it- seriously.

Also with chains: better a bit loose than too tight.

The mud flaps were like $8 USD a couple of years ago (so, what... like $40 down under? :D)

My xlite is 112 links IIRC, (12z-52z).
 
13-52 and 112 links on mine. I just set the slack according to the book, what exactly do you mean by the suspension "relaxed"
Yeah the mudflaps sound fairly inexpensive,, but not too sure on availability though, will look into it.
I do have another new chain on the shelf, thinking about cutting that down to 114l and keep the 112 one for a smaller 48t sprocket (which i also have lol)
I do kinda like the idea of a slightly shorter wheelbase though.
I really am living up to my name as a newb here lol.
 
The OEM chain guide on my 300 ate the stock chain similar, but not as much as yours. At the time there was TM Designs available, not sure what you might find now.
:cheers:
 
Unloaded suspension is relaxed; which is when you use the 35mm spec.

...or align the sprockets and swingarm pivot (IOW, load the suspension) then make the chain slightly taut.

These are 2 different methodologies; you're combining them.

Now that I think about it, my chain might be 114 links.
 
310 newb said:
I do kinda like the idea of a slightly shorter wheelbase though.
I really am living up to my name as a newb here lol.
Click to expand...
I had the same thought at some point, for some reason :rolleyes: so ran smaller tire and shorter chain on the 300 and it was a mess. Maybe for just casual riding or dual sport you won't notice, but for me suspension and steering was way off and not worth the effort.
 
Oh yeah- my chain guide is the exact same as yours on my '14 310r. All-plastic with the husky gunsite molded in.

Your second image is clearer to my the fading eyesight.
 
Any reason not to use two masterlinks to put an extra link on? Maybe get a rivet one so it doesnt scream " look at the knob head who cut his chain too short", lol
As to the chain guide,, I dont like it. Its eating chains. If you look down the "gunsight" in one of the images i posted, you can clearly see the two tracks either side made by the links, and the two ridges either side that will now be eating my O-rings. Not to mention the side walls which are eating the pins.
I pressed the button on one of these;https://www.mxstore.com.au/assets/thumbL/RHKCG04-K.jpg?t=2018-07-07 14:51:25
Its a generic image so we'll see what it looks like when it lands.
https://www.mxstore.com.au/assets/thumb/RHKCG01-R.jpg?t=2018-05-14 09:36:25
 
310 newb said:
Any reason not to use two masterlinks to put an extra link on?
Click to expand...
That won't work ya knob :D Master links are outer/male, they join 2 inner/female links.
310 newb said:
As to the chain guide,, I dont like it. Its eating chains. If you look down the "gunsight" in one of the images i posted, you can clearly see the two tracks either side made by the links, and the two ridges either side that will now be eating my O-rings. Not to mention the side walls which are eating the pins.
I pressed the button on one of these;https://www.mxstore.com.au/assets/thumbL/RHKCG04-K.jpg?t=2018-07-07 14:51:25
Its a generic image so we'll see what it looks like when it lands.
https://www.mxstore.com.au/assets/thumb/RHKCG01-R.jpg?t=2018-05-14 09:36:25
Click to expand...
That looks pretty good, let us know how it works out.
:cheers:
edit: Oh you're thinking 2 masters with a link in between :doh: Def a big no-no, but could work at least for awhile.
 
^ yeah, was thinking to use a 2nd master to put another inner link in. Im thinking the master is probably the weakest link anyhow.. a 2nd one wouldn't hurt? Especially if its the rivet type (which are available for this chain) I do have a spare 8 links laying around lol.
Yeah i'll let you know how the guide works out.
 
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