• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

TE310R Oil Drain Plug Question

Tinken said:
This is why I made my breather tanks out of a one piece billet. I couldn't risk debris from oxidation or welding.
Click to expand...
In your opinion, could oil flow back into the head from the breather tank, or will it only return through the sump line.
 
I'd still be reluctant to put a filter on the head line though, not sure it would flow well enough for the system to ventilate appropriately.
 
Just installed the ZT kit. There were no issues whatsoever. I didn't even drain the oil, just undid the old plug quickly, plugged the hole with my finger and then installed the new plug. Lost only an ounce or two of oil. The new oil fill cap went on easy by hand turning the barbed part and the cap together a quarter turn, then holding the hex part and turning the barb back, then repeating until it was in all the way. I do have a couple questions: I routed the drain back hose around the left side of the motor, between the mid pipe and the cylinder, then over the starter and into the new cap. Anyone see a problem with that routing? I liked it because it required no trimming of the hose. I want to be able to return the bike exactly to stock if I have to take it in for warranty work. I moved the hose shield back a bit so that it covered the section between the mid pipe and motor where it might get hot. Also, it took a shocking amount of torque to remove the old plug, should I apply that much on the new one? I put a decent amount on it but nothing like what it took to get it off. Lastly, should the screen/filter by the plug have come out when I removed it? I did not see it, if it shouldn't come out, how do you remove it for cleaning? Thanks in advance for the help.
 
The prefilter will now stick to the new drain plug by design. To change your oil, you can either remove the fill cap or use an inexpensive gear oil pump when refilling.

image_18737.jpg
 
On my 2011 310 the lowest connection off my frame oil catch section has a screened filter attached to the barbed hose end the drain back hose is attached to.
When I flushed my oil catch out there was a few chunks of rusty crap on there.

Have a look at urs :)
 
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