• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

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TE310 valve problem!

s.hutchinson84

s.hutchinson84

Husqvarna
B Class
So my 2011 TE310 wouldn't start the other month, so I had a quick look & couldn't work it out so I took it to my local shop they told me that the valves needed adjusting, wich they did. Less than a month later, same thing, but this time they tell me I have sunk a valve? And the next time it doesn't start I'll need the head off & new valves. Is this a common thing? What causes it? Is it only the inlet valves that need replacing or both inlet & exhaust? Thanks in advance for your help
 
It can only be one of two things, stretched valve or worn/wearing valve seat. When valves start to move they usually carry on. Sounds like it's been left too long without checking the clearances as once you are having trouble starting due to tight valves it's usually too late and the damage to the seat or valve has already been done. I've never had the head off mine but imagine your next cost will be new valves and valve seat re-cutting.
 
As Above.

I don't think this is a common Husky problem. One of my old bikes has 150+ racing hours and Valves are still good.
It can be caused by High RPMs, Dirty Air and incorrect / poor Fuel.
Often the problem is only on the Inlets, you may be "lucky" and only have to replace them.
 
Great thanks guys, it's got 4500kms on it, I brought it second hand with only 1500kms, I have ordered the inlet valves from Halls(a friend recommended them) and have a friend that owns an engine reconditioning shop. Fingers crossed its only the inlet valves! I plan on pulling it down when the parts arrive. I usually change the air filter every second ride unless its been a real dusty ride. Is there such thing as too much filter oil? I plan on putting a new set of rings in it while its apart, hopefully the bore is ok, anyone had one apart with roughly the same kms?
 
yes mine has been apart the bore was good and the piston was good the mechanic ran a hone thru the bore and we stuck in new rings - the inlet valves were also good - the reason i re built it was the exhaust valves were wearing from the tip not the seat and valve clearances were increasing so the auto de comp would work this was causing estart issues which took us a while to diagnose. we put it down to an earlier issue with the water pump seal failing and the bike ran extremely hot on a few occasions. why the water pump seal failed is a bit of a mystery but the bike may of sat round for extended period prior to my purchase the pump is up high and the the seal dried out is one theory? these bike should not use any coolant so check it regularly as you will not notice the coolant disappearing gradually into the engine as it gets past the seal - in my case i noticed it too late and the motor got extremely hot you will not see any boiling as the coolant will be totally gone.
 
gergte310 said:
yes mine has been apart the bore was good and the piston was good the mechanic ran a hone thru the bore and we stuck in new rings - the inlet valves were also good - the reason i re built it was the exhaust valves were wearing from the tip not the seat and valve clearances were increasing so the auto de comp would work this was causing estart issues which took us a while to diagnose. we put it down to an earlier issue with the water pump seal failing and the bike ran extremely hot on a few occasions. why the water pump seal failed is a bit of a mystery but the bike may of sat round for extended period prior to my purchase the pump is up high and the the seal dried out is one theory? these bike should not use any coolant so check it regularly as you will not notice the coolant disappearing gradually into the engine as it gets past the seal - in my case i noticed it too late and the motor got extremely hot you will not see any boiling as the coolant will be totally gone.
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I haven't lost any coolant, just the valves went out of adjustment, and then wouldn't start! However I have ordered all the water pump related seals and gaskets too, whilst its apart probably wouldn't hurt to change them
 
The valves in these are good i can only assume that the first 1500km may have been run with a dirty air filter - having said that the metal mesh can be an issue with these bikes its a bad design and it may not always seat correctly and the dust can track thru from the edge i have removed mine all together and have been running without it - or perhaps no oil in the foam? Dust is the main cause of inlet valve wear 4500km is too soon if the bike was maintained correctly. You should always remove excess oil from the filter and dry it prior to installation. good idea about the pump parts you may as well do it while the thing is a part.
Good luck mine will be tested this weekend at the wattagan rally.
 
gergte310 said:
The valves in these are good i can only assume that the first 1500km may have been run with a dirty air filter - having said that the metal mesh can be an issue with these bikes its a bad design and it may not always seat correctly and the dust can track thru from the edge i have removed mine all together and have been running without it - or perhaps no oil in the foam? Dust is the main cause of inlet valve wear 4500km is too soon if the bike was maintained correctly. You should always remove excess oil from the filter and dry it prior to installation. good idea about the pump parts you may as well do it while the thing is a part.
Good luck mine will be tested this weekend at the wattagan rally.
Click to expand...


Let's just hope the rest of the engine is ok, I have 6 air filters I swap out every second ride, once the parts get here I will know the full extent of the damage, you will have fun at the Watagans, I was there last year, was a good weekend away!
 
robertaccio said:
FYI,
The OEM (Husqvarna) sources Del West valves for these machines, they are one of the top tier manufacturers of four stroke engine valves.

http://www.delwestengineering.com/

http://www.delwestpowersports.com/
Click to expand...


Yeah, so far I have ordered the inlet valves @ 140us each they weren't cheap! I was told that they weren't done aftermarket, I brought the gaskets I need in Aus from r&d as the price was nearly the same. Wish I had of known about delwest, does anyone know if they will sell to the public?
 
I pulled the head off the bike today! Wow! I can still see the cross hatching in the bore, I'm taking the head to the appropriate people tomorrow! It was an easier job than I thought! The bike has done 5000kms
 
s.hutchinson84 said:
Yeah, so far I have ordered the inlet valves @ 140us each they weren't cheap! I was told that they weren't done aftermarket, I brought the gaskets I need in Aus from r&d as the price was nearly the same. Wish I had of known about delwest, does anyone know if they will sell to the public?
Click to expand...

From what I was told they will only sell to Husqvarna and must be purchased from a dealer although I've seen Husky valves on Ebay...
 
Valves on these bikes seem solid but obviously will not last forever. Fuel quality, air filter maintenance, how you ride (bouncing off the rev limiter), oil quality and service intervals, and other factors are what determine how long they last. It is usually the intake that go first as they are larger and have stiffer valve springs which make it hit the seat harder and dish out the softer valve itself causing your gap to go away and bike to not start well.
 
Yeah I could only find genuine valves, I brought them from halls, the head is at the shop now being done, after 5000kms of hard riding, the hone marks are still in the bore, the top of the piston is clean, I'm impressed! I'm pretty on top of mantinence, I put a new air filter in it every ride( I have 6 on rotation) and use motorex 10w/60 & filter every 500kms
 
I forgot to ask, when I pulled the stator cover off the oh side of the engine to find tdc, there was oil in there. Is this normal?
 
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