• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

TE310 oil seepage fixed w pics of starter

D

DougW

Husqvarna
AA Class
As I had posted in my 57hour checkup post I have had a oil seepage problem around the starter area. It turns out it was at the rubber wire seal where the magneto wires exit the left hand cover. I ordered a new side gasket just in case and did replace it but I'm not totally sure I really needed to. What I ended up doing that seems to have worked after cleaning up the oil is replaced the gasket, removed the rubber wire insulator, then put a small about of red high temp liquid gasket material around the groove in the insulator and replaced it. I wiped off any access gasket material from inside the cover. After I re mounted the side cover I then put some gasket material around the wires on the outside. So far so good as it hasn't leaked yet.

In this picture you can see the oil that seeped past the gasket between it and the cover. Plus you can see how the starter motor lines up and works as well.

P1020394.JPG


Here is the cover side and you can see oil on the rubber wire insulator as well.
P1020395.JPG


In this picture what is interesting is the flywheel has teeth on it but one of them is machined off. No it is not broken<G>.
P1020396.JPG


In this picture you can see the gear behind the flywheel that the starter gear engages with.

P1020398.JPG


Here is just an overall photo just because.

P1020393.JPG
 
DougW said:
In this picture what is interesting is the flywheel has teeth on it but one of them is machined off. No it is not broken<G>.

P1020396.JPG
Click to expand...

Great pics, thanks for posting them, first time I've seen the worm gear that is key to the x-lite e-starter design.

Do those teeth engage anything? If not, I'd think the design of the teeth was to allow them to machine off a tooth or more on the heavy side of the flywheel when it was balanced. You can see a punch mark on the rim area near the missing tooth, possibly indicating the heavy spot.
 
My thought was maybe the missing tooth was for timing of tdc.

And if anyone needs into the starter it is pretty easy to do. With a little effort you can remove the starter without removing anything else other than the mounting bolts. Once removed its easy to get it disassembled, if anyone cares.
 
Great write up and pics, thanks!

That isn't how I pictured the starter/worm config.

I need to do this next oil change. Did you let the RTV dry before you mated the parts, or no?
 
Man, those pics answer a lot of questions I've had about "how it works". Helps explain that unique starter sound we x-lite folks get asked about. Thanks for taking the time to do so and sharing your fix.
 
I'd suspect regular silicone on the outside would be just fine on the outside only. It never leaked alot, worth a try, nothing to loose.

I put the red rev on the rubber seal, put the cover on lightly, then in the morning finished tightening it. For me it was to make sure I didn't have any rv inside the cover before I seated it down. I didnt want any chance of the rtv floating around.
 
Great pics Doug to answer the question of the missing tooth this ia what is called the chopper wheel and the teeth tell the ECU how many revs the engine is doing and the one missing is the TDC reference. I suspect the pick up or engine speed sensor is part of the box above the stator most likely the blue and white wires. This is how the engine works out fuel timing along with the other info from the rest of the sensors.
 
I just had the exact same issue on my TE250. When I opened it up I found that dirt had gotten between the rubber wire plug and the cover. Cleaned it out added a little grease and put it back together. Seems to have fixed it. I will find out for sure later today when I go for a ride. If not I will likely go with liquid gasket as well.
 
Excellent info here! Thank you.

So, what's the black stuff on the stator?
image.jpg

Anyone know where the little rubber pieces (in the center of this pic) came from?
image.jpg
 
Those little black rubber/plastic bits are most likely from your clutch dampers, on these very hot running bikes they get brittle and start to crack. Eventually you will need to pull your clutch basket and do this.

http://www.ziptyracing.com/husqvarna-clutch-cushion-kit/

you will start to find your clutch get some chatter and a sort of loose feel from all the play in the back plate as those bushings collapse, it will no longer be as smooth engaging as when it was new.
 
I've had mine off in the last month or so a few times. Not sure what the rubber washers are for? This bike doesn't use a lot of rubber washers on it.

Did you take the stator off? could it have been used with those two allen head bolts. That black stuff is a sealer, I think to protect the wire connections to the windings.
 
The little round rubber washers in the pic are not clutch dampers.
I've had a few of these engines apart and don't recall little rubber washers as in the pic.
 
Thanks Husky maniacs. robertaccio, I'll look into that after I get more use out of the bike. Everything looked primo when I dropped the Rekluse in a while back.

As soon as I saw them I was reminded of the little rubber anti-squeal pieces on the Rekluse clutch hub, but they appear to be slightly different in dimension and shape. I'll have to check just in case.
Untitled-1.jpg

glangston said:
Maybe just check a schematic of the stator to see if those pieces are foreign or domestic.
Click to expand...
:thumbsup: Haven't found them yet. p40... http://www.halls-cycles.com/fckimages/file/TC-TE-TXC 250-310.pdf

need2boat said:
I've had mine off in the last month or so a few times. Not sure what the rubber washers are for? This bike doesn't use a lot of rubber washers on it.
Did you take the stator off? could it have been used with those two allen head bolts. That black stuff is a sealer, I think to protect the wire connections to the windings.
Click to expand...

Sealer eh? I was sooooo glad to see another pic from the OP with the same thing, haha.

Excellent guess as to where they came from, but I found one in the case outside of the stator area on the worm gear. I don't see them in the schematic either, but I'll definitely check to see if they fit the allen bolts.

I just set the gap on the clutch but I might have to open it up and make sure it's not the pieces that go on the hub. Rogue rubber. Hmm.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top