• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

TE310 ECU/FI changeout

my_urban_chaos

my_urban_chaos

Husqvarna
AA Class
What is the best route to updating the 2012 ECU/FI? I've read that the TMX combo of ECU and 12 poing FI is best. Others have said the JD Tuner. Other said Powercommander. I don't want to spend money uselessly so any input would be helpful.
 
I personally found the Jd tuner easy to understand and it made real results. I also know that many people found the 12 port injector to work well. I believe that if you got he Jd tuned correctly you wouldn't need the ecu reflashed/replaced.
Avoid wetting the Jd if you can.
 
I've done both JD Tuner first then 12 port injector and ECU, the latter is the way to go and is literally plug and play. The JD Tuner did improve things but in my opinion just masked the original issues, you can get better performance but nothing like the smoothness, response and extra power of the ECU and injector.
 
So the PCV is a Power commander V, is that just plug and play or does it need flashed? Also install the 12 port injector? How does the Power Commander work with the 6 port?
 
Freaky said:
I've done both JD Tuner first then 12 port injector and ECU, the latter is the way to go and is literally plug and play. The JD Tuner did improve things but in my opinion just masked the original issues, you can get better performance but nothing like the smoothness, response and extra power of the ECU and injector.
Click to expand...
Does the new ecu change the ignition timing?
 
I haven't seen too much noticable difference with JD Tuner on my 2010 TE250. As Freaky stated - it seems to mask the issues rather then completely fix em
 
Hi guys
Long time lurker (and learner) but want to add my 2cents of results.

Have a 2012 TE310 which was powered up by the dealer (all the stuff taken off, o2 sensor eliminator, cat out, throttle stop gone, I assume adjusted with the computer etc).
Had it since new, and while it ran well, always had a real snatch in the throttle around 3000-5000rpm when rolling off of, then back on to the throttle. It was only happy slowing down, or accelerating, the in between and the transition was rough. Somewhat typical to what I have read others have found.

Decided that the best route would be a Powercommander V as it was slightly more advanced then the JD and adjustable. Had debated about the ecu/injector but figured with the adjustibility of the PC would be more useful...Got it, installed, did some playing and loading of maps and it helped (say a 25% improvement) but didnt cure the problem. Somewhat disappointed, as didnt feel like dropping more $$ towards something else that may in fact not work either. My idle and whatnot was all fine too, cables tight etc.

So, just for kicks, I had the old O2 sensor around, reinstalled it (removing the eliminator plug), didnt touch the setting on the Powercommander (had bumped up fuel in the 3000-5000rpm/ small throttle range) and BOOM smooth as butter. She now rolls on and off the throttle smoothly and there is no rough transition or surge of power down low any more. Can say problem solved. Not sure how much effect the PC is having on it as I haven't tested it with a 'zero' (stock) map, but think it will be good for tuning/adjustments now that the throttle snatch is gone as it can be tuned for power.

Not entirely sure why this solved the problem, would guess that now the ecu is getting some feed back and now adjusting accordingly where as before the eliminator was telling it only a specific value, which in fact for whatever reason (the programmed fuel map i guess) had a bit of a lump in it or was cutting fuel/adding fuel when it really shouldnt have.

I can imagine this set up might be similar to that of the Powercommander with autotune as it adjust the fueling according to what it sees at the O2 sensor that comes with that, but at least this option was much less (ex free).
 
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