te310 chain tension help

[bensl]

i have a new (to me) 2012 310 and have just swapped out the rear sprocket for a change. i put the rear wheel back on and tensioned the chain as per the guide in the book (below), but to me the chain looks far too loose. normally i just do it using my best judgement but i thought being a new bike i would follow the book for once. i used a 35mm socket and even used ratchet straps to align the sprockets and swingarm axle.



as it looks:

any ideas? does that look ok to you? how do u guys do it?

 

[Bruce A]

That looks too loose. Did you use a 35mm socket or one with an outer diameter of 35mm. For my socket set that is a 27mm. Also make sure that the socket is all the way down on the chain slider and not resting on the side lip. How much did you change the rear sprocket size and did you change the chain length too?

 

[bensl]

thanks bruce. i did make sure i used a socket with an outer diameter of 35mm. i may have had it on top of the chain slider though now you mention it...(doh!) i went from a 52 to a 49 so used the same chain. i will have another go with the socket hard against the swingarm this time.

cheers

 

[OlderHuskyRider]

Did you use the socket under the chain at the same time that you tightened the suspension to align the axle, SA pivot and CS, or did you put the socket on top of the plastic rail?

I use a 33mm piece of PVC. I carved a semi-circle into the position where they say to measure the slack. I left about 2mm on the slider. The bike should be on a stand if you use the 35mm slack method. Tighten the chain to where it is snug at all positions with this technique.

 

[Aaron8]

OlderHuskyRider has this right.

The manual is misleading. Follow the "Fast Adjustment" method, allowing the swingarm to droop down as shown.

I think the Fig A image if just a final check to be sure the chain isn't too tight. It's not a method of adjustment. Fig. A should be observed without the spacer.

 

[OlderHuskyRider]

To me, the Fig A is what the tech writers at the factory HAVE TO DO to find out how much slack is needed, then they devise a methodology to check the slack, with spacers and such.

I use the 35mm spacer method, I have almost 15,000 miles on 2 chains, and I have never had to tighten the chain during the life of the chain, when I swap tires, and reinstall the wheel, the spacer fits in the same tightness thru the life of the chain.

 

[Kawagumby]

Why can't you just check it like most other bikes, i.e., just check for chain not quite binding with the rear suspension compressed (wheel furthest from cs sprocket).

 

[OlderHuskyRider]

Why can't you just check it like most other bikes, i.e., just check for chain not quite binding with the rear suspension compressed (wheel furthest from cs sprocket).

That method takes 2 people OR removing the shock. I have never checked my chain that way, it's just too much trouble when there is a proven methodology for checking it with a spacer.

 

[Johnrg]

I slide a 26mm 1/2 inch socket 5.7 inches from pivot as manual says and it's 35-36mm or 1.37 inches outside diameter. I had mistakenly grabbed my 22mm when I adjusted last though at 30mm. Funny thing (not) was when delivered new it was a lot tighter.

 

[Kawagumby]

That method takes 2 people OR removing the shock. I have never checked my chain that way, it's just too much trouble when there is a proven methodology for checking it with a spacer.

I just sit way back and bounce a bit with my hand on the chain and guesstimate the xtra slack it needs (I can get it pretty close). Never had a chain problem in 50 years of riding. I'm too lazy to be technical....LOL...
The husky chain looks a bit looser than most 12" suspensions using that method.