• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

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    Thanks for your patience and support!

TE250 2011 won't start??

jetmani

jetmani

Husqvarna
AA Class
Hey guys,

I went for a ride yesterday the bike was unusually hard to start , it did finally get going and was fine the whole day. I got the bike home ,now she won't start. Fuel pump is priming,
A couple of guys suggested valve clearances, what should I check first?
 
I'd check for spark, then valve clearances then sheared woodruff key on the stator.
Does the engine turn over fast or does the starter sound like it's slipping? It could be the one-way starter clutch.
Also try roll starting it.
 
spray starter fluid in the intake tract. also, when idling, spray it on the intake manifold to check for leaks (rpm raises==leak).

this also has a CTS feel to it... except that the symptoms are opposite: easy start cold, runs good cold, runs bad hot, hard starting hot. Maybe your cts has failed in the opposite way (shorted, not open)?
 
cts: coolant temperature sensor; or in some books: cylinder temperature sensor. sometimes WTS (water temperature sensor). yours is on the back of the cylinder, near the cam chain tensioner.

if the ecu thinks the motor is cool/cold, it richens the mixture- and hot would be leaner. you seem to be lean (?? running okay all day, ez hot start) so on a cold motor, starting fluid would help. If it does, it becomes a mission of finding out why you're lean (ie, cts, bad injector, low fuel pressure, regulator, pump, filter, intake leak, ad nauseam). If it doesn't help, we need to look somewhere else

cts failure usually causes rich conditions though. btw, your era of xlite has a cts that has a semi-infamous reputation. $20 in the USA.
 
Take off your fuel supply hose to the injector and ensure it sprays fuel when you turn on the bike, this is my current problem, and when I was looking into the tank, it appears that the hose has broken in the tank, thus no fuel to the injector. I have a new pump too, but I didn't install it, I'll update with full breakdown once I get the pump out of the tank.
 
Bike is going again, valve clearances were the issue.
Does anyone have valve sizes? I am going to try and get some made.
Down here in Aus over $1000 for a GENUINE set of valves, (RIDICULOUS).
 
My observations, from a 2800km trip I completed 3 weeks ago from a fresh rebuild, and more recently a couple of day rides. I ride a 2010 TE250.

1) I've found that after awhile (4-8hrs after an air filter cleaning and oiling of hard riding or lots of KMs at low rpms, like my trip) my bike would sputter on initial throttle application and not idle very well if at all. So I checked all the usual suspects, and have concluded that air filter oil and/or engine oil from the crankcase ventilation had contaminated my throttle body sensors for the MAQS (I think that's what husky calls it - MAP/MAF/TPS). This caused it to gummed up, so I sprayed carb cleaner down my throttle body with the bike running, and this cleared up a lot of the idling and initial throttle sputtering issues.

2) The air bypass screw had backed out slightly thus lowering my idle speed and caused hard cold starting, so I reset it, to ~3 turns out, and my bike very well now.

I would suggest checking these two things first and then go from there, pending you spark, and fuel, is good. hope this helps.
 
With my bike it was definately valves, I got them shimmed now the bike runs fine. How long for I don't know.
I would like to buy new valves but they cost a small fortune.
 
Bike is starting and running fine although I haven't used it much since I started this topic.
I bit the bullet and bought a genuine set of valves, just waiting for my mechanic to install.
 
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