• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

TE Brake Pedal Free Play

Cosmokenney

Cosmokenney

Husqvarna
Pro Class
I've got a '13 TE 511. Trying to get the brake pedal as low as possible. But but it's causing brake drag if I move the eccentric cam so it's as [thick] as possible, thus moving the pedal down. I've loosened the jamb nut (there's plenty of thread visible above the nut) and cannot figure out how to get the back of the pedal to slide further up the plunger.

All the workshop manual says is:

Before staring the braking action, rear brake pedal shall have a free play (B) of
5 mm (0.2 in). Should this not happen, operate as follows:
- Loosen the nut (3);
- Operate the master cylinder linkage (4) to increase or decrease free play;
- Tighten the nut (3) at the end of the operation.


"Operate the master cylinder linkage"
What the heck does that mean?
All I can think of is that they expect you to press on the lever a few times with the nut loose. But that doesn't do anything.

Suggestions?
 
((just guessing that yours looks like this, if it doesn't , sorry))
This is where you are trying to get to, the fattest part of the cam pushing the lever down as far as it's gonna go. The jam nut is all the way down, and the collared nut is also all the way down, covering all the available threads. Your goal to make the junction of the collared nut and the rubber sleeve be the same before and after your adjustment.

01-410-0118-0_i_01.jpg
 
OlderHuskyRider said:
((just guessing that yours looks like this, if it doesn't , sorry))
This is where you are trying to get to, the fattest part of the cam pushing the lever down as far as it's gonna go. The jam nut is all the way down, and the collared nut is also all the way down, covering all the available threads. Your goal to make the junction of the collared nut and the rubber sleeve be the same before and after your adjustment.

01-410-0118-0_i_01.jpg
Click to expand...


Exactly. I've got my came in pretty much the same position. But I cannot get any more "slack" from the plunger. What I mean by slack is that the even if I loosen the jam nut on the plunger I don't get any free play. I'm thinking that even though there are threads left, the plunger is fully seated in the back of the pedal. Usually when there's a jam nut, you'd think that it's there to prevent the bolt (or plunger in this case) from spinning. Like the way cable actuated brake levers are adjusted?
 
when you loosen the jamb nut you should be able to turn (screw) the plunger into the lever u clevis. I know on one my bikes either 449 ot the 610 i had to take the pluger completly out and cut of a few threads, cause it was bottoming out and i could not get free play as you are describing
 
That's what happens on the 449/511.
Need to cut some thread off the plunger where it goes through the clevis otherwise it hits the brake lever.
 
Cut 1/4 inch or so off of the threaded shaft, then you can thread it in further and lower the pedal more.
 
I took another look at this while I wasn't in such a hurry. The replies above are correct. All I needed to do was thread the shaft/plunger further into the clevis. What got me tripped up originally was that the rubber dust boot was bound on the shaft. So I didn't think I should turn the shaft. I shot it with some silicone spray and that released the boot.

This has gotten rid of the drag, but I the shaft is threaded in so far that it is now bound against the back of the pedal. So I need to do as suggested above and remove some of the threads. And I may even take a little material out of the pedal at that spot.

Unfortunately with my gorilla hands and inadequate tools I managed to pinch the rubber boot and it's got a tiny tear in it. I wonder how hard that would be to replace?
 
The rubber boot is more for protection than it is for sealing anything important. You can probably put a bit of epoxy on it to cover the hole or just leave it as is.
 
Nice post. I've got the same problem. A little cutting on the plunger ought to do the trick. No problem with my Gaerne boots but my Sidis push the pedal down till the brake's dragging.
 
Just wondering has anyone had to replace their triangle tip? Or does anyone know an alternative brake pedal to use? Full one from Husqvarna is rather pricey.

Thanks
 
Indorider said:
Nice post. I've got the same problem. A little cutting on the plunger ought to do the trick. No problem with my Gaerne boots but my Sidis push the pedal down till the brake's dragging.
Click to expand...

This is what I did. I cut a bit more than I thought I'd need to in order to get it to work for me. Now the spacer is at the full down position and the pedal is pretty much in the perfect position. I'm able to hit it without thinking about it now.
 
Zip ty have them listed, but i cant see how it would work as the tips dont screw in on the TE511. Most other bikes its screws from the top down into the lever itself.
 
You have to drill out the stock rivets and remove the steel tip.
The ZipTy tip is adjustable length wise to cater for smaller/larger boots.

It is considerably better feeling than the stock tip. Sad I destroyed mine when coming off on the Tarmac :(
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top