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Te 630 shifting problems at 1275 miles

Scott Eldredge

Scott Eldredge

Husqvarna
B Class
I got this bike with 600 miles on it. Shifting was ok but not like a Japanese bike. Would occasionally not shift into the next gear without repeating or downshifting and coming up again. Finding neutral has always been a treasure hunt. Has 1275 miles now and has gotten worse to point that today a number of times it would not upshift from 2 to 3 or 3 to 4. I had to stop a couple of times and then start up again. Eventually it would shift and I made it home. Bike hasn't been ridden hard; it's barely broken in.

Is there anything I can check or do short without removing the engine or paying lots of $$ ?
 
Neutral takes some practice but mine has about 13000 km and is one of the slickest shifting bikes I have driven. You can check if gear selector is binding and not returning to it's center position. Just get the rear wheel off the ground and shift gears up and down while turning the wheel. The gear selector mechanism can be accessed after pulling off the clutch cover if any binding is detected. You could try a different oil but I don't think it will make any difference if sticking is excessive.
 
Thanks. I was going to go this morning and put it up and mess around to see what I might learn. When the bike shifts, it's slick. When it doesn't, the lever goes up and nothing happens. Nothing is engaged. Is it possible to lean this bike over and remove the clutch cover without having to drain the oil? (On my gas Gas, you can lay the bike over to work inside the clutch side without having to drain the oil.)

On the stand, it shifts fine up and down the gears. Clutch fluid level the same as when I just recently changed it.
 
Scott Eldredge said:
Thanks. I was going to go this morning and put it up and mess around to see what I might learn. When the bike shifts, it's slick. When it doesn't, the lever goes up and nothing happens. Nothing is engaged. Is it possible to lean this bike over and remove the clutch cover without having to drain the oil?
Click to expand...

Yes
 
Maybe this is too late,but be careful with oil pump sliding out of its place if bike is very leaned when
removing clutch cover. I would not do it that way... Draining oil is easier than putting oil pump parts back. It may not happen everytime,but there is a risk.
 
Thanks for the warning! Not too late; I haven't gotten to point of removing clutch cover yet. After it ran well on the stand, I adjusted the clutch lever and chain (because those were the only relevant things I could adjust) and went for a ride. The bike shifted perfectly, although I did take pains to shift methodically. When I got back I changed the oil to see if there were any particles or metal pieces in it, and it was the cleanest oil I've seen. I'll ride it again today and see what happens.

I removed the clutch cover when I got the bike to check the filter screen. The procedure in the manual made no mention of the oil pump. Is it sliding out just a possibility with the bike so tipped over?
 
Well,i should have said oil pump shaft,not whole pump. But no,if bike is resting in sidestand it normally does not slide out.
Just dont put cover gasket side down on table.
 
-87 750 monofaro. Not many around. Now it has 900cc engine,since original transmission broke and it was easier to update whole engine than find original gears
 
willie said:
Neutral takes some practice but mine has about 13000 km and is one of the slickest shifting bikes I have driven. You can check if gear selector is binding and not returning to it's center position. Just get the rear wheel off the ground and shift gears up and down while turning the wheel. The gear selector mechanism can be accessed after pulling off the clutch cover if any binding is detected. You could try a different oil but I don't think it will make any difference if sticking is excessive.
Click to expand...

Gear selector isn't binding. It returns to center. In upshifting from 2 to 3 it sometimes doesn't engage anything. Just moves up to its limit and stops. Never a problem on downshifts. Is there anything that can be checked/adjusted once the clutch cover is removed related to the gear selector mechanism?
 
Thanks. That would be nice, in that it can be accessed without pulling the engine. And it appears to be something I could get in to take a look at. I thought the spring (4) might be the issue, but didn't seem likely it would be a problem from new, and it feels normal, as much as I can tell without another bike to compare it to.
 
Scott Eldredge said:
Gear selector isn't binding. It returns to center. In upshifting from 2 to 3 it sometimes doesn't engage anything. Just moves up to its limit and stops. Never a problem on downshifts. Is there anything that can be checked/adjusted once the clutch cover is removed related to the gear selector mechanism?
Click to expand...

Once you get the clutch cover off you can observe the shift drum action as you move the gear lever up and down. See if you can replicate the problem and identify what is causing it.
Good Luck!
 
Not yet, but I have a workaround. I found if after shifting, put my foot under the lever and raise it gently and slowly a short distance (not until it stops) and then lower it and repeat, the first, second or third time I do this I will feel a very slight stop, indicating that the transmission will now shift into the next gear. It's becoming second nature. With this muscle memory, I can now take up tap dancing. I'm hoping whatever the issue is will work itself out. Shifting into neutral was very difficult when the bike was new, but now (1500 miles), it has become easy (best before coming to a complete stop).
 
That does not sound right. I would check that you dont have anything loose inside,shift drum star stop or whatever its called (that steel plate part in previous link) is attached with two screws,if its loose its behaving like that,and it will not tighten by itself... Bent shift fork wont drop inside engine,but loose screw could do some serious damage. Bent fork probably wouldnt mind how much you play with shifter.
 
It's not right, but it's ridable. When I described my issue to the dealer, he just said it could be a lot of things, woldn't say if there was anything I could check. Wasn't much help, and he's 105 miles away. Are you talking about the plate next to the sprocket in the diagram, parts 12 and 14? Easy to get at?
 

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