• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
    TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

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TE-511 spoke size and parts suggestions

Freekman

Husqvarna
AA Class
Hey guys I just got a brand new 511 and I am trying to make sure I keep up on the maintenance. I haven't found any info on the spoke sizes for the stock excel rims. All I know is that the Rowe USA 6 in 1 spoke wrench didn't fit.

I also want to know what kind of barkbuster/handguards and footpegs you guys suggest. I have a decent amount to spend on the, but I also don't want to get in to the diminishing returns side of things. I am look for best for the money. If there is a jump in quality that comes with a jump in price I am all ears, but if it isn't necessary that is fine too. I am new to the Supermoto/DS/Dirt world, so I don't really know how things work around here.
 
Spokes, I think are 7mm open end wrench. I am using enduro engineering bark busters, with sicass deflectors/turn signals.
Told Hall's I wanted what they suggest for bark busters and that' s what they sent, fit great, easy install.
Others will have their favorites I am sure. I am fine with the stock footpegs, someone else can chime in,
 
Spokes, I think are 7mm open end wrench. I am using enduro engineering bark busters, with sicass deflectors/turn signals.
Told Hall's I wanted what they suggest for bark busters and that' s what they sent, fit great, easy install.
Others will have their favorites I am sure. I am fine with the stock footpegs, someone else can chime in,

thanks. I already bent my left footpeg so it is kinda mandatory to replace haha. I found one from a 2000 TE610 that looks similar, but I am not sure if it will fit. I figured if people have some they like it
 
I installed the G2 hand guards and they fit perfect as well. They have saved me on 3 tip overs so far, one was hard, no damage to the controls. I do not like their deflectors, but I believe other brands would fit these guards. I'm also interested in a spoke wrench, and spoke weights that will fit.
 
If money is no object... :D
This is what I run, only white, and with Highwaydirtbikes.com anti-vibration inserts to totally eliminate vibration. Flexx handle bars are like pre-springs and take out small bumps, washboard, reduce rider fatigue etc.


http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/brp-fasst-co-flexx-mounts.2899/

I certainly like the sound of no vibes, but that is a little out of my range haha I would want to get both handguards and pegs for under 300. How strong are those bars anyways? Also does anybody have any experience with the acerbix rally pro x strongs. I really like the look of them, but I want something strong.
 
Hey I have another quick question. I broke the lens off my tail light. Does anybody know where to find a replacement? I am just worried about water getting in there and shorting something out.
 
They are led, doubt they will short out
Great, I guess my packaging tape solution will suffice for now. I should know more about this stuff being an engineering student haha. Also anybody that is curios I ordered that 2000 te610 footpeg. Same model numbers so I should be good. I may just use the 100 bucks I saved on a new fender or that badass bar set up
 
OK so more spoke problems. I tightened them all to what seemed appropriate using a 7mm spoke wrench. I didn't think it was too tight and definitely not too loose, but I was riding and one spoke broke right near the nipple. So now I am trying to order a replacement spoke, but I need to know this info
EFFECTIVE SPOKE LENGTH - EFFECTIVE THROAT LENGTH - DEGREE OF BEND

If anybody can help me out with this it would be greatly appreciated. Also does this mean I overtightened for sure or just unlucky? I had them pretty snug, but none of the spokes were a really high pitched tone. I clearly just don't know what is going on haha
 
Here are the P/Ns, you can order them from Halls or other dealer. They list the P/N plain and with a "-S", same price either way.
Front wheel 8000H1362 $2.25
Rear Wheel Sprocket side 8000H1534 $2.25
Rear Wheel Brake Side 8000H1533 $2.25
 
Here are the P/Ns, you can order them from Halls or other dealer. They list the P/N plain and with a "-S", same price either way.
Front wheel 8000H1362 $2.25
Rear Wheel Sprocket side 8000H1534 $2.25
Rear Wheel Brake Side 8000H1533 $2.25

thanks I found the part number, but I didn't know what to do with that part number haha.

Do you guys think I should back off the other spokes. They really didn't seem that tight, but this is a brand new wheel and I really don't want to be buying a bunch of spokes
 
Tap the spoke. It should have a bright sound. Back the tight ones off until the sound it dull then tighten only
Till it is bright.
 
also it looks like there is a little peice of the spoke stuck in the nipple. Is my only option to take the tire off to get the broken piece out, because there isn't any of the broken spoke sticking out?
 
Front Nipple P/N 8000A6208 $1.50
Rear Nipple P/N 8000A6209 $1.50
You will need to take the tire off. It sounds as if you made them all too tight.
 
Front Nipple P/N 8000A6208 $1.50
Rear Nipple P/N 8000A6209 $1.50
You will need to take the tire off. It sounds as if you made them all too tight.

Damn, I guess you learn from mistakes. I just wish I was spending more time riding right now.
 
I only tighten when they sound totally dull, and then only enough to get a "ring". You have to sneak up on them too, because when you tighten the opposite spoke, that will increase the tension on the original. Then you also have to spin the wheel and adjust for "true", which is going to further tighten not only the spoke you are on, but again, the one opposite.
 
I only tighten when they sound totally dull, and then only enough to get a "ring". You have to sneak up on them too, because when you tighten the opposite spoke, that will increase the tension on the original. Then you also have to spin the wheel and adjust for "true", which is going to further tighten not only the spoke you are on, but again, the one opposite.

wish I would have known that before haha. I watched a bunch of videos and read a bunch of stuff. I definitley was tightening tightening them in a good pattern and everything, but I was really looking for the high pitched "ping" everybody talks about.
 
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