• Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

TE 511 First Oil Change * Photos*

TomGlander

TomGlander

Husqvarna
AA Class
2014 TE511. 250 miles. First oil change. Oil looks dark brown. You can see the gunk that collected on the drain plug's magnet in the photo below, and after cleaning.

Bottom line: I didn't change the oil any too soon. Will do again at the 500 mile mark. Then move to synthetic oil and change regularly.

Just in case you have a new bike... you really can't change the oil too often. And your engine will love you for it, hopefully. Or at least the moving parts won't be challenged as much.

IMG_2393.jpg


IMG_2394.jpg
 
I should add to this -- the two cylindrical screens had a relatively small amount of gunk and rubber type material on them as well. Just a few small flecks. Cleaned all and replaced. Will change filter on next change, and use the steel screen style, which I'm waiting for UPS to deliver.
 
First oil change needs to be at 30 miles, then 100 miles and at and every 300 miles. Synthetic needs to be used right away. Go ahead and pop the new stainless steel filter in as soon as it arrives, don't wait for the next change.
 
Thanks Tinken. I will do that. Hoping parts get here today or tomorrow. Bike is torn down for now. So I can use the Mobil 1 synthetic I bought right away. Next oil change, I'll do it. Since I have 250 miles on now, and just changed oil, what is the next interval you recommend?

Also, at what point should valve adjustment be considered? Follow service manual recommendations, or ??? Thanks.
 
Installed the new steel oil filter today. To make this completely mess free, I tilted the bike to the right, letting the right bar end rest on a workbench. Then I removed the oil filter cap. Absolutely no oil leaked out. Removal of the filter was simple using a small pair of needle nose pliers. Wiggle the filter while gently pulling, to work the rubber grommet free from the internal spout that it goes over. Once free, the filter pulls right out.

Replaced the paper filter with the new one, reinstalled filter cover. Photos below show the various stages and the comparison between stock paper and new stainless steel filter. Plus, the last photo shows the back of the filter card with the info about the filter. The diameter of the SS filter is smaller, allowing for more oil to fill the chamber before being forced through the filter. This may not make any real world difference, but it's at minimum a psychological adantage... maybe??? :thumbsup:

Bike leaned over to the right. Ensures no mess to clean up later. Get this filter from pcracingusa.com


IMG_2422.jpg


Empty oil chamber waiting for new filter...

IMG_2423.jpg


Filter comparison...

IMG_2427.jpg



Filter card back with info on this filter...

IMG_24282.jpg
 
TomGlander said:
Thanks Tinken. I will do that. Hoping parts get here today or tomorrow. Bike is torn down for now. So I can use the Mobil 1 synthetic I bought right away. Next oil change, I'll do it. Since I have 250 miles on now, and just changed oil, what is the next interval you recommend?

Also, at what point should valve adjustment be considered? Follow service manual recommendations, or ??? Thanks.
Click to expand...

every 1000 miles or so.
 
Appreciate the info. I'll check the valves around 500 miles, just to see where they're at. Going to add the Mobile 1 after another 100 miles. It's nice to buy the M1 in a 5 quart jug. From Walmart, it's $24.99 where I live. So it makes each oil change about a $5 affair. With the SS filter, there's no extra expense. I'd recommend this setup to anyone. I know we all have our favorite oils, but after reading the report from the oil doctor, I'm going with the Mobile 1, 0-20W in the gold jug.
 
It's not about our favorite oils, it's about matching the oil to the engine. M1 0W20 is a great oil, I run it in my hybrid, but it does not match the mechanical tolerances of the Kymco 449. Your cSt should be closer to 13@100°C. At 150°C the cSt of 0W20 drops to 2.7. On an especially hot day, your oil pressure will drop. The first thing that will start to seize on your engine will be the rod bearing and then the wrist pin, followed usually by a cylinder lock up. The good news is that we are just up the hill from you and we have rebuilt many of these seized engines.

M1 0W20
Viscosity @ 100 ºC, cSt (ASTM D445) 8.6<<
Viscosity, @ 40 ºC, cSt (ASTM D445) 44.9
 
So then for all season oil what would you use? I'll be riding this summer. I have. It put M1 in yet. What say you?
 
I don't want to see you for your engine rebuild service. Not that you aren't great at what you do. Just want to be safe and sane with lubrication. Thanks again. Now I will be checking on an insert for the Powerbomb. I know you make one.
 
I have ran M1 0W40 at near zero temperatures and as hot as 106°F weather in my 511. I would recommend it, or Rotella T6 or Torco SR5-5GDL.
 
Thanks Tinken. I will do the same. I need to return the 0W20 Mobile 1 and get the 0W40. You've saved me from having to send my engine in to be rebuilt. :D Appreciate greatly!!
 
Ok, got the proper Mobile 1. The 0W40. Put exactly one liter in the case. Rode the bike around. It may be my imagining, but it seems to shift easier, quieter, more glassy and smooth. And the motor seems to purr instead of rumble. Maybe it's just psychological. Maybe it's real. Maybe it's Maybeline. In any case, I like it. My buddy is going to do the same for his 08 TE610. I'll probably use this stuff in all my offroad and onroad toys and transportation devices.
 
One more note. I ordered parts from ZipTy - a shift lever tip and an oil drain plug for my 14 TE511. Both were not correct parts upon arrival, made to fit other bikes. So if anyone orders anything from ZipTy off their website, make sure you either call them to confirm the part will fit your bike before you order, or make sure the site says the part will fit your bike. They are making things right. But just a word of caution so you don't make the same mistakes I've made. Seems kind of dumb, doesn't it? To order stuff that's not right? Live and learn. :applause:
 
Sorry about your order Tom, did you call and get it squared away? On the shifter tip, you need to specify if you own a 449. The drain plug we have for the 449 is part of our recirculation kit. You are not imagining the effects of M1 0W40, it matches well to the 449.
 
Just a note to make sure you are using the right Mobile 1 0W40 as there are several flavors. Some have friction modifiers and you dont want that. Also how are you cleaning your SS filter and how do you know it is clean?
 
Image of the 5 qt jug of Mobil1 0W40 European Formula is on the right.

M1_0W40.jpg


Cleaning the SS oil filter is easy. Just spray off the outside with brake cleaner or solvent. Wash with hot soapy water, rinse and dry using compressed air from the inside ---> outward. This will release the tiny debris from the micronic steel cloth.
 
Tinken said:
Sorry about your order Tom, did you call and get it squared away? On the shifter tip, you need to specify if you own a 449. The drain plug we have for the 449 is part of our recirculation kit. You are not imagining the effects of M1 0W40, it matches well to the 449.
Click to expand...


TE511, 2014 year. Do they even have a drain plug and a filler cap for this bike? I'd like both, ordered both, and received both, but both were incorrect. I've told them that much, and am waiting for the correct parts.
 
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