• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Te 450 stall pop and bog then die.

oneal

oneal

Husqvarna
AA Class
Ok guys and girls here's the story so far, my 07 husky te 450 euro 3 engine has recently been rebuilt new piston rod and mains the works. since break in it has got progressively worse. The carb was stripped and cleaned and the jetting remained the same as before the rebuild and the bike ran fine.
100 miles later i was getting bog at quarter throttle and then it would cut out and die and run hot and the fan would kick in for a few seconds. I stripped the carb again went from a 48 pilot jet to a 52 and reset everything.

It ran fine for about 45 minutes and then started to cut out and bog to the point of being dangerous. And now its also got a bad with decel pop when shutting down and will sometimes just die. I've also fitted a new spark plug the muffler as been repacked and the pipe as been sealed so there's no leaks. inlet manifold is not cracked or split and is nice and snug.

All of the wiring harness as been checked for bends and bear wires and nothing as been found. Anyone got any good ideas on how to solve this. the only mods i have on the bike are the sm silencer and the air smog pump as been removed with the inlet manifold being capped off.
 
Do you have an adjustable air screw? It makes dialing in the carb a lot easier. I got the flex screw and it works perfect on mine. Have you removed all of the euro piping or do you have to keep it? I disabled the recirc line and pump and caped the plug to the manifold. I have since changed out the manifold to a non euro. One other trick that you may not know of is using an oring to slow down the the linkage to the booster. There is many posts on how to do this.
 
Hi all, i have an adjustable fuel screw which is currently set a 1.75 turns out. all that as been removed is the air recirc pump and the inlet manifold as been capped off. the rest of the euro stuff i have to keep because its tied in to the electrics and helps run the lights which i need to keep to stay legal. Ill go back again and recheck the timing but sure its all OK. I haven't yet disabled the booster pump i haven't needed to but ill give it ago anything to get it running. Thanks for all the help so far.
 
I had time to give it a good look over today cam timing is fine and all the timing marks line up in the right place. The other two things i found was a hair line crack in the clutch cut off switch and a internal short on the starter switch. Parts will have to ordered but ill have to wait until January 2nd before my local dealer opens.
 
I fitted a new clutch starter switch cause the old one was cracked also i replaced the right hand starter com switch because there was tracking in the switch. And i also replaced the manifold as a precaution as i wanted to get rid of the capped off smog spigot. I also rechecked the timing and the valve clearances nothing wrong found there. I also re cleaned the carb and its spotless you can eat your dinner off it. as well fitting a new spark plug which as a strong blue spark. after working through the night to get it done this morning i went to start her and you can her trying but shes trying but shes popping back through the carb im starting to think it could be stator thats failing. any more ideas cause ive now done everything i can think of.
 
Just a quick update i can now only get the motor to run with the choke out as soon as i push the choke in the motor dies. any ideas... as you can eat from the the carb its that clean.
 
hmmmm.... sounds lean?

electrical: coil going intermittent? pickup/tigger or stator? cdi? (<--- one of these is where i'd put my money on at the moment)

have you checked for a vacuum leak (yeah, probably not w/ a new manifold, but check for loose carb, slide etc). Exhaust header okay?

full flow on the petcock? (how is the gas? got water in it?)

slap another (temporary) carb on there- I've seen carbs with hidden fractures that leaked air. Anything that you can get a reasonably tight fit on to the manifold will be fine- just as long as it idled on the donor bike, that is. use electrical tape if it's something dinky (30mm).

triple-check the cam timing. It's gotta be spot on and is apparently easy to make a mistake on this bike (no experience). wait... it ran fine for a 100 miles so unless a timing chain jumped maybe not.

compression test- burnt valve? broken ring?

very weird. let us know what you find out

good luck.
 
I've just managed to borrow an other carb off a 07 te 450 so ill let you know happens next. To answer a few questions the fuel is fresh and the flow is good from the fuel tap. All the exhaust as been sealed up copper seal. I've also rechecked the cam timing and then triple checked it everything lines up. The motor as only just over 300 miles since it was all rebuilt with no problems before other than glitter from the big end.
 
oneal said:
...The motor as only just over 300 miles since it was all rebuilt with no problems before other than glitter from the big end.
Click to expand...

I just had a small inspiration- check your stator/trigger and rotor for metal flakes which could disturb your ignition timing or damage your windings.

good luck.
 
Well i got to the bottom of it, I fitted the borrowed carb and she started and ran fine pulls fine and does everything she's supposed to. So it looks like my carb is junk and with a lectron carb being cheaper than a new FCR. So my next question is has anyone fitted a lectron to TE 450 yet ?
 
I'm not a Husky guy yet but I have had my share of woes with motorcycle carbs. In my experience, carbs really don't "break." Components wear out, jets get clogged or rubber parts fail. If I understand correctly, you said the carb was working before the motor rebuild. Did you run the loaner carb for a substantial amount of time. 100 mile ride? If you are convinced that the problem is your carb, then I would suggest opening it back up and carefully checking all of your rubber parts. Especially the little o-ring for your mixture screw and the round rubber gasket at the slide wear plate. How's your float level? Did the tang accidently get bent when you were last in there? I hate to say it but it is likely something you did unintentinally when you last worked on the carb. I learned the hard way to always remove all rubber parts before getting near the carb with carb cleaner. Just a drop of that stuff will destroy an o-ring or gasket. Check your main jet needle. Did it get reinstalled correctly? Double check everything. If the bike ran perfectly on the loaner carb and you are convinced it is your carb, then I would take the time to go back into your carb to look for the smoking gun. It's in there. I hope you didn't remove the TPS from the carb as it has to be re-callibrated when re-installe . Here is a link to a good photo tutorial on the FCR carb that I found very helpful.

http://www.dirtrider.com/features/protips/141_0707_keihin_fcr_carb_rebuild?image=0
 
just a quick update ive been through everything again stripped and cleaned the carb again for the umpteenth time. rechecked everything and then triple checked its still the same she will only run on choke. even with my buddies carb it still does the same thing. im now starting to pull my hair out or what ive got left of it.
 
I can understand your frustration. Been there before. Any chance your intake manifold boot has a split or crack in it? As often as the carb has been taken off lately, something new could have developed. I really can't wrap my head around an electric or timing issue being fixed with the choke plunger out. It has to be a fuel mixture problem. Otherwise, wouldn't it run poorly regardless of the choke position? Maybe it is time to post some video of the problem. Run it with the choke in and out so others might be able point you in the right direction. I'm really curious about your eventual solution so please keep us informed. Good Luck! Joe
 
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