• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
    TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

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    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

TE 449 or 511? Is there really much difference?

reaganbart

Husqvarna
When I bought my 2011 TE 449 I was tossing up whether to by the 449 or the 511.

But is there really that much difference? I find the 449 to be great around town, and plenty of power and versatility out bush. Is there much more power with the 511?
 
Having ridden both back to back the 511 has slightly more bottom and mid and the 449 revs slightly easier. Noticeable but not huge.
 
Maybe your electronics are different than the US - but here in the US, folks seem to have less issues getting the 449's dialed in. Seems odd to me as the 511 is actually a 476 or something right???

A few folks here that own both 449s and 511s have commented that the 449 is way easier to sort the bugs out. I think we are beyond anecdotal evidence on that topic as it comes up frequently.
 
When I bought my 2011 TE 449 I was tossing up whether to by the 449 or the 511.

But is there really that much difference? I find the 449 to be great around town, and plenty of power and versatility out bush. Is there much more power with the 511?
I have both, 2013's. 449 revs faster and higher, 511 torquier revs a little slower and not as much on the top end. Both great bikes, 449 needed no fiddling after fmf map 3 and smog junk removed. 511 was a bit more finicky, had to adjust brass screw to match 449, tps reset and run the quiet core in fmf for more back pressure. image.jpg
 
I have both, 2013's. 449 revs faster and higher, 511 torquier revs a little slower and not as much on the top end. Both great bikes, 449 needed no fiddling after fmf map 3 and smog junk removed. 511 was a bit more finicky, had to adjust brass screw to match 449, tps reset and run the quiet core in fmf for more back pressure. View attachment 40485


Capitalist!! :D

Nice bikes dude.
 
Thanks husky brother...I keep waiting for them to start to run crappy so I can try the BF removal, or have to tinker with them but so far so good. 449 has 1600 miles and 511 1100 miles
 
Thanks husky brother...I keep waiting for them to start to run crappy so I can try the BF removal, or have to tinker with them but so far so good. 449 has 1600 miles and 511 1100 miles

Ha ha.
Why wait?:)
Do one & it will become your favorite overnight....
 
I know I know we will see they're getting ready for oil changes again so maybe this weekend. Once I get the lower air box off there's the velocity stack, I assume that just pulls off then pull the tube off the tps and I should see the BF correct? 2 screws remove plate and replace air box parts.
 
You don't have to do the mod if you are happy, just teasing, but I think you'll be surprised by the change.

Once the lower airbox is off & the air-boot clamp is undone, the boot squeezes in at the sides where it goes into the airbox to pull forward into the box.
This MUST be 100% sealed when reinstalling, there's a lip either side of the plastic when seated correctly. It is fiddly, but do-able.
With the fwb motor & shaft, try not to force it around any more than needed to access the screw heads, motors like these don't like external pressure.

It may run fine, but you may also need some small fueling changes. Especially with the pipes you have there.
Not sure if you have a piggyback to tune with, but i was able to add enough extra fuel for mine by moving my tps sensor slightly so it runs on a different richer part of the maps.
Small movements are key, too far & it won't run in the range of idle voltages, I adjusted mine idling & warmed up.
 
Oh trust me I know I don't have to do it...lol...but more power is never a bad thing. I'm not running any piggyback programmers and that's why I haven't played with it yet. As they sit now they run great and because I have 2 bikes the cost of programmers double. I, like you didn't want to spend a bunch of money on programmers etc....for some reason my bikes don't push any oil in the air box either and I run 1150 cc of oil in them. It's funny cause after reading a lot of posts on CF I'm either lucky or they will both blow up 100 miles apart.
 
Oh trust me I know I don't have to do it...lol...but more power is never a bad thing. I'm not running any piggyback programmers and that's why I haven't played with it yet. As they sit now they run great and because I have 2 bikes the cost of programmers double. I, like you didn't want to spend a bunch of money on programmers etc....for some reason my bikes don't push any oil in the air box either and I run 1150 cc of oil in them. It's funny cause after reading a lot of posts on CF I'm either lucky or they will both blow up 100 miles apart.

Same here on the oil. I've always run 1150cc and never had a problem.
 
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