• Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

  • 2 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Austria - About 2014 & Newer
     TE = 2st Enduro & TC = 2st Cross

TE/TC Te 300 Clutch Problem

B

bicyclephil

Husqvarna
AA Class
2016 TE 300 200 plus hours lots of hare scrambles and enduro.

Where do i start....

I have just completed a rebuild on the bottom end. The crank was out of spec...axial play and was able to twist the con rod.

During disassembly:
Clutch basket showed signs of notching....visual unmistakeable, dragging a finger nail across notched surface barely detectable.

During assembly:
I used all the old clutch parts accept for new steel plates(intermediate discs)(2@1mm, 7@1.4mm)

and new friction plates(facing plates). This is a Tusk clutch pack

As noted above I am cognizant of the 2 exterior steel plates that are @1mm etc.
***The parts fiche lists two different part numbers for these 1mm steel plates???
***Is it crucial that these two plates be installed in a specific orientation?
***I installed these two 1mm plates on the interior/exterior of the pack without regard to part number....unaware at the time that their is a difference per part number in the fiche.

Also why no slave cylinder gasket?

After completing the engine installation I started the bike, second kick, and all seemed to be right.
After about a minute of idle I pulled in the clutch lever, shifted into 1st gear at which point the bike lurched forward and stalled.
Next up I completely emptied the clutch line and refilled, then bled the clutch line from bottom up.
After bleeding no bubbles seen at master cyl. reservoir, clutch lever felt normal. No leakage at the slave.
With bike still on the stand, in first gear, I pulled in the lever and was unable to spin the rear wheel with my hand. Started the bike shifted into first and same condition as above, bike lurched forward and stalled.

Thoughts on how to proceed?

Next up I will pull outer clutch cover, inspect, and if possible change the belleville spring washer with the X/Y/Z from X to Y or Z. I'm unsure of how to correctly align these marks.

Any advice or clues on how to proceed greatly appreciated.
 
Did you soak the new clutch plates in oil before fitting them? They will bind if they are installed dry.

Remove the oil fill plug on the clutch cover and then pull the clutch lever in. You should see the outer pressure plate move out about 1-2mm. This will tell you if it's an actuation or stiction problem.
 
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