• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Tapered C/S sprockets

toolguy1

toolguy1

Husqvarna
AA Class
HI guys, I recently acquired a '74 250WR with the tapered countershaft. Is there a source for these sprockets? It came with 3 new ones that the guy had but I'm wondering if I need to go to a spline output shaft.
 
If you have 3 new ones...that should last a few decades of daily use.
They wear like...well...like the highest quality Swedish steel!

That being said, if anyone has a spare 12 tooth large taper...please let me know.
 
Correct, the older "small taper" has a keyway, the later "large taper" does not.
A quick measure with calipers shows the large taper bore at about 19.8mm at the inside and about 18.2 mm at the outside.
The 74 WR would have the large taper.

A few other hints:
> Make sure both countershaft taper and sprocket taper surfaces are smooth and squeeky clean before installation.
> Torque to 50 lbs (flywheel nut also...). It doesn't hurt to re-torque after a ride...
> Use the Husky puller to remove the sprocket...other methods may fail or cause damage.
> Use the Husky special tool (it hooks between sprocket teeth) to hold the sprocket to loosen and tighten the nut. Or a special vise-grip like gear holder that can brace against the frame or footpeg. Do not try to hold the c/s from turning by putting the bike in gear...you risk transferring too much force and breaking expensive transmission parts!
> There is another Husky tool...a rod with 2 bent ends that should be used when loosening or tightening the flywheel nut. It transfers the force to the frame where the rod hooks into a hole near the footpeg.

-Richard
 
I have a client whose 74 250WR I'm rebuilding. The clip end of the countershaft was for some reason ground away so that the normal spring clip would not hold the sprocket on. After spending a considerable amount of time looking for a 16-12-473-01, I decided to try to add filler metal to the end of the shaft and then using a grinder and dremmel tool, shave the serrations and cut a new groove for the spring clip. It turned out pretty good if I do say so myself. After: get-attachment.jpg Before: Prior to Rejunivation.jpg
 
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