• Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

synthetic oil for a new engine?

M

mimosa

Husqvarna
AA Class
My brand new bike came with motul 300v 15w50*, according to the little sticker beside the oil cap. This is a fully synthetic oil.

Some people (whose experience/expertise suggest they should know their oils) tell me this is a no-no for new engines because the stuff is so good it won't allow high spots on the piston ring to wear away.

Other people of seemingly equal authority on the subject, recommend synthetic oil even during engine break-in.

who is right?

*I trust the mechanic used the oil labelled "300V 4T FACTORYLINE 15W50" on motul's website, as this one is made for bikes while "300V COMPETITION 15W50" is for cars.
 
mimosa;84261 said:
My brand new bike came with motul 300v 15w50*, according to the little sticker beside the oil cap. This is a fully synthetic oil.

Some people (whose experience/expertise suggest they should know their oils) tell me this is a no-no for new engines because the stuff is so good it won't allow high spots on the piston ring to wear away.

Other people of seemingly equal authority on the subject, recommend synthetic oil even during engine break-in.

who is right?

*I trust the mechanic used the oil labelled "300V 4T FACTORYLINE 15W50" on motul's website, as this one is made for bikes while "300V COMPETITION 15W50" is for cars.
Click to expand...

Holy cow Batman! Another oil thread! We gotta nail this sucker :banana:

This is another place where you will not get any thing other than ' I was told' or 'don't do this' and 'my brother found out' answers because their is no proof or evidence that a GRP IV or GRP V oil harms an engine when it is new ... and you will find the owner of a product trying to sell his product saying you need his break-in oil ...

If you have any real proof , please post it here, OK?

Do you really think a manufacture of thousands of bikes wants to put $18 a QTR (x2 per bike) oil in all those bikes it pushes out the door? ESP when that oil is going to be changed quickly due to the engine being new? I think not as most like to cut corners as much as possible..

PS -- 99.99% of these oil threads have one thing in common ... No failures... No one has ever say my oil failed out of all the times this topic has come up .. over and over again...no failures reported ... W .. T .. F.. does that tell you?
 
Many modern engines come with high quality full syn. oil right from the factory.

It's not the oil that won't let the rings seat properly, it's being too easy on the throttle for the first 20 miles.
You need to get those cylinder pressures up early in the engines life, so that they'll force the rings out against the fresh sharp cross-hatch on the cyl. wall.
Once the sharp edges on the cross-hatch are worn& dulled down a bit, you're done and the rings will go no farther in the seating process. So if they haven't seated properly by the first 20 miles or so, you'll have an engine that will never quite live up to it's potential and will use more oil than one that has fully seated rings.
 
Thanks rayray and slowpoke. What you say makes sense, but it was disconcerting, as my 'friend of a friend', seemingly so full of knowledge/experience had such conviction in his break-in method.
 
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