• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

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swingarm bearing sleeve damage question

motojason

motojason

Husqvarna
AA Class
Rebuilding my 83 CR 250 for next race season. Discovered that my drive side swingarm roller bearings were completely destroyed (pin retainers disintegrated, pins worn and missing, and races smashed). I was able to get the races out of the swingarm -in pieces- , but the steel sleeve the bearings press into is worn and pitted.

Anyone have experience / suggestions for repairing the sleeve?

Was thinking about quick steel or JB weld, but not sure if they have enough compressive strength to use as filler? Loctite makes 660 retaining compound for this application, but says it is only good up to a .5 mm gap. Not sure that is thick enough. And a little 50ml tube of it costs $60.00!

I don't want to replace the bearings only to have them fail because they are not seating properly.
IMG_20151219_2125323071_zps7cogwos1.jpg
 
may be cheaper to just get another swinger off ebay but a decent machine shop should be able to install a hardened sleeve, and you could give them a new bearing to use for a reference.
 
You can get things to repair the surface for a lip seal called a speedy sleeve, possible you could get one for your swing arm.. But you deffo need to put it right before more bearings.
That wheel must of been slapping around like a dic in a bucket.
 
Prob get nother off ebay? Other option is to carefully grind that out and weld in new one.
But you will need guy to tig weld and use chromoly compatable filler rod. Prob ER80S filler rod.
I might have good end I could cut off one of my old ones.
 
A bodgers repair ( like me) use emery paper on electric drill to smooth rough, machine up a brass bush interference fit, add a grease nipple for regular maintenance.
 
Thanks guys. I was hoping to be able to fix it myself with some sort of super metallic goop but, it sounds like it is going to take more than that to do right. This bike will get raced at least 12 times next season between AHRMA and AMA D-14 and I need dependable!

Bearings (two bearings per side with double row seals 2016RS) had been replaced by the previous owner before I purchased the bike in late 2014. They looked fine when I repacked them in March of 2015. 14 races later they were toast. I am guessing most of the sleeve damage was there before the bearings were replaced previously since the bearings on the left side were completely fine and that sleeve is in good condition. Both sides had new o rings, so seals were good.

I will show it to my father in law today, he was in the tool and die business before he retired and still has a mill and other tools in his home shop.
 
dartyppyt inspired me to do a "resto mod" on my 83 rebuild. Will post pictures as the parts come back from the various suppliers. Frame out for powder coat...blue! swingarm will get nickel chrome plated after repair, forks stripped and buffed.

Thinking blue powder coated hubs and silver rims, but have not decided yet.

Anybody ever use a Clarke 2.2 gal plastic tank? For a bike that will get a lot of race use it seems like a good choice.
 
The profile on the Clark tanks for Husqvarna look very close to the factory tanks. I have seen perforated decals used on them to make them look authentic.

As far as your swingarm situation I would consider having bronze sleeves pressed in with a 16mm id to run directly on the steel inner sleeve. This would solve the problem of the swingarm and save $60 to replace the 4 needle bearings this will replace
 
No! Never chrome anything that takes stresses you ever hear of hydrogen embrittlement? No well read this http://www.nmfrc.org/crarchive/jun06a.cfm

It mostly causes cracking to the base metal and if the base metal has to be slightly ductile like a swing arm or has high carbon content like your swing arm then stay the EFF away from chrome.

Sorry it is of course your choice but was giving you my opinion.
 
Got the frame back from powder coat shop:
IMG_20160106_174849686_zpsoervfgfm.jpg


Decided to do swingarm, fork legs, shock bodies, brake arm, and chain guide plates in a satin black powder coat.

Still waiting on the swingarm to return from the machine shop before I can send it out for finishing.
 
Yup that should be good, i got loval machinest to make phosphor bronze inserts for my kmx, worked a treat no slop an had it for atleast 3 year.
 
Had the swingarm welded, bored, and faced for the correct diameter for the original sized bearings. With new bearings, steel sleeves, and o-rings it's as good as new! Got some of the spacer washers too. Now there is no play and it doesn't stress the frame when the swingarm pivot bolt is at the correct torque.
IMG_20160506_123654003_zpsa2n1ntxq.jpg

Fork tubes, swingarm and shock bodies are powder coated black
 
nice thumper case! those are a nice upgrade..and for a racer it makes for quick clutch access. plus you can fit the big 6 spring clutch if you wish..
 
justintendo said:
nice thumper case! those are a nice upgrade..and for a racer it makes for quick clutch access. plus you can fit the big 6 spring clutch if you wish..
Click to expand...


I think I will try to find a 6 spring clutch. I have a later 5 spring clutch, running 8 thin Barnett plates & steels in the one-piece steel basket and heavy duty Barnett springs. Parts from 85 I think. Works well. Getting rid of the aluminum plates and the new kevlar frictions made a huge difference in feel and progression. Longer, offset actuator arm helps leverage ratio too.
 
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