• 2 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     WR = 2st Enduro & CR = 2st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

All 2st Suspension Clicker Help

Jhunter

Jhunter

Husqvarna
AA Class
I've got my suspension set pretty soft since I ride mostly tight hilly East coast single track. On my last ride, I bottomed out my forks on some high speed 4-wheeler trails. Before I start making clicker adjustments, I wanted a little feedback. I was going to start with 2 clicks + on the top of my forks. That would dial in a little more compression, correct? ('08 WR250 w Zokes).
 
The adjuster on the top is rebound, not compression. Compression adjustment is on the bottom of the fork. To combat bottoming, one thing you can do is turn the compression (bottom) clickers in (clockwise). I would turn them in like 5 clicks; you might be able to feel a smaller change, but as a starting point I feel it's important to make sure a change is noticeable. The clickers are progressively more sensitive as you get closer to fully hard (closed). Near fully open, you'll need more clicks for the change to be noticeable.

Those forks are usually valved quite soft from the factory. The setup is good for woods work, but might be too soft for faster trails or moto.

The top (rebound) adjuster should probably be set to approximately halfway out. Note that the top (rebound) adjuster is a 2-way bleed on the midvalve, so it will also have an effect on compression damping. The compression adjusters on the bottom of the fork effect compression only.

You can also give the forks some bottoming resistance without increasing early-stroke harshness by increasing the oil level. This will only impact approximately the last 1/3 of travel. Adding approximately 10mm of oil might be a good starting point, depending on what the oil level is now.

A revalve can also improve the fork's behavior in varied terrain, but that depends on how often you're going to ride faster stuff and how big the problem is, as to whether or not it's worth the money.
 
Kyle - Thank You, I'm glad I asked. I'll start with 2 clicks on the Compression (bottom) and see what I get. I had a full custom suspension rework 2 years ago and it's awesome. This is the first time I've every bottomed it out. Too much Turkey!
 
I added 3 clicks to the Compression. A very quick test ride and it feels better. The fork travel feels shorter and harder at the bottom. I need to hit some larger high speed whoops this weekend and adjust again as needed. Thanks again!
 
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