• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Stuck Motoplat?

IMvintage

IMvintage

Husqvarna
AA Class
Any techniques for removing a flywheel when that end of the crankshaft has been wrung off?
I'm using the appropriate puller but it's not getting the job done!
Tried penetrating oil, tried heat gun (didn't try a torch yet).
Any suggestions?
 
The puller is designed to press against the end of the crank before the threaded portion with the dimple in the center was broken off. The one I did broke on kind of an angle so I drilled in the center of what was left as best as I could. Don't recall if I used some form of spacer or shim between the crank end and the puller. As for the heat, The last normal undamaged one I did I used an electric heat gun but the actual taper is pretty far from what you can heat. There is a temperature at which magnetism is lost so you don't want to heat too much. Whether it was more twisting force or the heat that did the trick can't say.

I guess if one wanted to go kind to the extreme, take the clutch cover off and mount the engine with blocks under it to a drill press or milling machine. Center up on the crank end and drill it out as big as you can before hitting the rotor. Continue drilling deeper so some of the taper forces would be relieved, install a rod with dimple in the hole, use puller as normal.

The crank end is junk already, chances are the rotors are in surplus as the stators probably are the things which go bad.

Fran
 
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