• Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Stuck brake rotor bolts

J

John_L

Husqvarna
AA Class
Hi all,

Looking for words of wisdom.

The front brake rotor on my 06 610 is slightly warped and while I straightened it to the point of no annoying pulsing, I decided to get another rotor finally. Tasky's hooked me up very quickly.

Took the wheel off and went to remove bolts, one slipped right away, the others not so much. Heads starting to strip so thought I would post up here to see if there is any best advice.

thanks
john
 
John, posted similar on SMJ with my 09 510 SMR. They were seized SOLID with what seemed like factory applied bearing lock. I started by soaking them and using impact driver. No go. Then tried heat on hub with driver. No go. Finally had to drill through the screw centres CAREFULLY so not to wreck the hub thread, then really heat the hub, then hammer the screw heads round with a cold chisel. It was a p i g PIG to do do but it got them out.
 
Usually a propane torch and a really good bit on a regular impact driver will get them all out. Need lots of heat and start off with the good bit before any rounding of the hardware occurs. That's been my experience with most hubs and rotors.
 
Yeah, looks like I am in for a bit of a battle but will give it a go again tomorrow, thanks for the responses. john
 
Here's what you should get out
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Cool, so you used the chisel angled on the heads it looks like and beat on them? I might end up doing the same soon.
 
Yeah! I was going to use a centre punch but was in fear of slipping at scratching the disc - rotor you call it? - so got a start biting into the head, then at an angle and after heating the hub flange until it was real hot, used chisel and lump hammer for more kinetic energy until the first one started moving. Then oil, then hit more etc etc... then next one...
 
you can use your dremel with a cut off wheel and cut a slot in them then use a slotted screwdriver, the type with the hex built into the shaft (snap-on and others make them) and hold it(the screwdriver) with the associated fit wrench for twisting leverage. on aircraft we use this method for stripped phillips and torque type head screws. Adding some heat helps too especially if the OEM used threadlocker.
 
Appreciate all the help but have to admit I feel like I am running out of options. Don't know what they used for thread locker but i cannot get them to budge at all. I've soaked and heated, repeat, repeat, repeat with wrenches. Now chisels and tried the slotted mention as well and no movement at all. Starting to piss me off but keeping the patience. Gonna let it sit some more with PB Blaster on it.
 
I used impact driver, never failed on anything before but the prob here is that the screws are SO soft and the threadlocker I think was a bearing lock - permanent. The driver just chews the steel. In the end drilling through the screws with a 4mm sharp bit allows the material to 'give' a bit and makes the heat more effective. Honestly, I was where you are and totally pissed off but they did come out and will for you. Drill, heat, hit - with heavy hammer, repeat....PROCEED!!
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And don't just warm the hub flanges, get them real hot. And concentrate on one screw at a time. I could hear the oil fizzing as the gap opened up. When it started to move I shouted out something unrepeatable. You will do it
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The best way I have found to remove stubborn allen heads is to weld nut on the top so you can put a socket or box end on and even use an air wrench, if you like.
A mig welder works really well for small fasteners, because you can really concentrate the weld inside the nut. The side effect of welding on the nut, is the heat that is concentrated to the bolt to soften the thread locker. I don't even think about an easyout if I can get a nut welded on a stuck fastener.
 
Xcuvator said:
The best way I have found to remove stubborn allen heads is to weld nut on the top so you can put a socket or box end on and even use an air wrench, if you like.
A mig welder works really well for small fasteners, because you can really concentrate the weld inside the nut. The side effect of welding on the nut, is the heat that is concentrated to the bolt to soften the thread locker. I don't even think about an easyout if I can get a nut welded on a stuck fastener.
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yup, if you have a mig you can weld a cheap allen key in there. the mig heat will allow it to pull right out.
 
So have you got the buggers out yet John or is the front wheel in pieces. Nervous silence..
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moto66 said:
So have you got the buggers out yet John or is the front wheel in pieces. Nervous silence.. :D
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sorry guys. I haven't gotten back to it yet. Hoping to find some time tomorrow to give it another go. I've been soaking them in a lot of PB Blaster though when I can. Work has just gotten to busy. I'll update soon.
 
Figure I'll throw my 2 cents in the mix. Same issue with me. Drilled through the bolt centers, keeping my hex intact. This still allowed me to use an allen to bust them loose. Yes, PB blaster for a day.

I tried the weld trick with my tig. Have done it many times at work with positive results. No luck here. Just not enough surface area for the amount of torque required to bust these bolts loose. Sheared the nut off.
 
oldskool63 said:
Figure I'll throw my 2 cents in the mix. Same issue with me. Drilled through the bolt centers, keeping my hex intact. This still allowed me to use an allen to bust them loose. Yes, PB blaster for a day.

I tried the weld trick with my tig. Have done it many times at work with positive results. No luck here. Just not enough surface area for the amount of torque required to bust these bolts loose. Sheared the nut off.
Click to expand...

Hey oldskool, think it might have been your post on SMJ that inspired me to drill mine through. It was the fix it needed. In response to other good thoughts re welding, I did take mine to engineering shop but was more worried about weld spatter/damage to the disc face. My first Brembo disc, couldn't see it in pain
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Damn, what challenge this has been. Hour and half on one bolt and not out yet. Broke a couple drill bits too. Heated the hell out of it, struck it with the hand help impact and still nothing. Just doesn't want to budge. Contemplating getting an electric impact driver and trying to break them loose that way. Any thoughts on that? On the good side of things, my rotor is actually becoming more true believe it or not. Don't know if it is extra heat getting to it or what but it is.
 
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