• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Sticking Clutch on 1988 WR250.

C

ChrisC

Husqvarna
B Class
Hi all,

Next question re my 1988 WR250, due to a failed SEM stator, it has been sitting for some 10 months, it is now running thanks to duccman and a china made CDI.

Due to sitting, the clutch plates are now "stuck" and wont release, it used to stick a lttle before, but after a few mins of riding, it would release and be fine, I even had a small steel rod made up to hold the clutch in the released position when parking up for extended times, but forgot to do it and now wont release.

I tried riding along with clutch pulled in and locking the rear brakes, this normally makes it release, no good, rode for 10 mins with the clutch in and popped wheelies, slide into corners etc, no release, so it looks like I have to go in to fix.

What oil should I be running, I dont know whats in there at the moment, never changed it.

Is there anything else I will need besides a gasket to fix?

Bike is starting great, first or second kick, every time, I even kicked it in bare feet yesterday, it is too easy to start now, it will roll start in an instant, just need a clutch that works.

Thanks
 
Have you been watching this group last week or so and seen this thread?

http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/husky-wr430-1987-stick-clutch-question.20742/

I am not so sure the oil is all that important the four stroke models must use engine oil and mine hasn't this problem at all. I do use red cap mobil 1 for automotive. The plates are very similar to sureflex ones I use to replace the sintered bronze ones origional to Norton and that never had any issues back to se or some way earlier second letter than now exists. Don't misunderstand me it will never disengage like a single plate dry clutch.

I kind of glue or cement the gasket to the cover and usually don't replace it. It couldn't hurt to see if the slots between the segments in the friciton discs are clogged. Sometimes I drain the coolant and sometimes I use metal blocks or even coins and clamps or vice grips to pinch the hoses flat and tie the water pump housing out of the way.

When I tried the screwdriver through the oil fill port it semed the outer piece and the first friction plate were the only (and first) one that took much force to seperate.

I meant to imply the type of oil might not be as important as all the discussion might lead you to believe. Changing it and examining how much stuff sticks to the magnet is pretty important. The worn off friciton matrial and the aluminum from the non friction plates of course are suspended in the oil or caked on the bottom of the inside.

Fran
 
Hold clutch released, go through oil fill hole and see if you can seperate the plates, 88 should have big diameter clutch. My 87 430 was really bad for that also, oil didnt matter.
 
Hi guys,

Thanks for the replies, I will have a look through the oil fill port and see what I can do, it normally releases fine after a couple of minutes or less, just been sitting a long time I suppose, I had an old RM125 suzuki years ago that had a sticky clutch, it was the clutch basket was worn and would not allow the plates to slide easilly to seperate, I dont think this is the issue here, just a thought.

I will have to get back in the habit of holding the clutch released when stored for any lenght of time it seems.

Thanks again.
 
Yer Chris that can be a problem.
Changed mine to steel which fixed it sorta.
If you check some Jap steel plates you will see dimples pressed into them and I think that this is their answer to this problem.
Before photos.
clutch1002.jpg

clutch1001.jpg
 
Update,

I ran the bike for a few minutes yesterday with the clucth lever held in to maybe warm it a little, then went in through the oil fill hole for a look, I used a small 90 degree o'ring pick, (snap-on http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item_Lg.asp?picFile=/58500/58484.JPG )

It worked like a treat, it was small and pointy enough to seperate each disc fom the plates, just went round once seperating each plate, spin the basket enough to get to next plate set, repeat.

Started again, in and out of gear perfect, took for aquick ride, all good, now to change the oil a few times as oil is yukko, I will try a trans oil (10w cat) and see how I go, it will take afew changes to clean her out.

So far so good.
 
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