• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Steering head bearings on a Mag

halffast

halffast

Husqvarna
B Class
Has anyone ever replaced the loose ball type bearings on an MK framed Mag/WR with tapered roller bearings ? I seem to remember a kit for that floating around on the " auction site " a few years back but have not seen it on there for a while . I've replaced the balls a couple of times but the races are getting worn and wears them out pretty fast . They are also a pain to deal with . Is there a source for new loose ball bearing/races if the tapered bearings aren't an option ?
 
I have a '73 125 that I've shattered the bearings in the lower race a couple of times. I replaced the caged bicycle bearing with all loose bearings minus one and had no more problems. I got loose bearings from McMaster-Carr, they're an inch size - maybe 3/16" from memory. Good quality and cheap. I got extras for the ones that roll down the driveway.
I remember seeing a kit too, so you're not imagining things. I don't recall who does it though. Huskyjunk has tapered bearings for their super fancy triple clamps, but not for stock.
 
bearings are bearings when it comes to sizes, get the size spec of your oem ball bearings (outer/inner race size) and match it up to a roller bearing set, there are mega choices for sizes there should be a match.
 
robertaccio said:
bearings are bearings when it comes to sizes, get the size spec of your oem ball bearings (outer/inner race size) and match it up to a roller bearing set, there are mega choices for sizes there should be a match.
Click to expand...

I really don't think it is that easy. I have these 1955-1969 bmw bikes which use the total balls all the way full minus one like noted above. One dealer offered me some tapered roller bearings to replace them and I bought two sets, he either got un marked bearings or removed the markings and I never was able to figure out what they were. They also have very timy tapered rollers and I doubt they really are much if any better than what they replaced as far as any property except staying in tact upon disassembly. I expect basically any swap of a loose ball type for another design will not be all that robust.

Usually with bearings you start with the bore then there are different series basically how much larger the outer diameter is and you can't just pick and choose all your dimentions. Yes some have multiple choices larger of one of the races but I think more space for the rollers not less is what is desired. I have altered bearings both with essentially a tool post grinder and carbide cutters in either a vertical mill or a metal working lathe and it isn't as bad as you might think but of course it is your own safety you play with. If someone has a bearing number for the oigional poster it would simplify matters for them.

fran
 
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