• 2 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     WR = 2st Enduro & CR = 2st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

250-500cc Starts but Immediately Dies

P

placelast

Husqvarna
AA Class
My son's 1996 250 WXC starts but dies instantly; more kicking brings little to no run time until it absolutely won't even fire. Ran fine up to now, on our last ride, when after a rest it did this: would start but then died, popped once or twice thereafter, then never again. We use the lean-it-over-until-it-leaks and just-past-TDC-method which worked so well before.
  • Compression is as strong as ever; low hours on top end. Check
  • Plug looks fine (not fouled, carbon or oily); bright spark seen in strong sunlight. Check
  • Fuel flows out of overflow as usual; carb internals (float height and movement) good. Check
  • No jetting changes from before. Check
  • Reeds look new and seal well. Check
  • Everything else tight and snug. Check
What to check next?
 
Thanks for the suggestions.

Yes, the plug shows signs of fuel being present.
I can see through the pilot jet and side-spray nozzles, and nothing came with it when it was removed. Air pressure can be blown though the circuit. Same with the main.
Fly wheel looks tight on from never having been removed or loosened. The key pin cannot be seen; if it in the correct position on the crank - I need a flywheel puller to get it off. There is corrosion on the surfaces from not seeing air/being washed though since it has adequate spark I might discount the condition but the position - exaggerated advance/retard - would produce spark though at the wrong point; enough for it to initially fire up?
 
Pulled the fly wheel and cleaned up the surfaces. Reassembled. No start.

Next step was disassemble to replace the CDI. In the process I saw in the harness where one of the female leads had backed out of the connector. Light bulb!

Pushed it back in and it fired/ran great on the second kick.
 
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