• 2 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     WR = 2st Enduro & CR = 2st Cross

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125-200cc Starting issues

rockdancer

rockdancer

Husqvarna
Pro Class
My 13 model Wr 165 runs well But is a bugger to start
Takes quite a few kicks
I've played with jetting and even swapped carbs and same issue
Almost need to start with no throttle and then feed it on when there is a slight stir /fire
did same as 125 thing or 165
Any ideas? Seems like a spark issue
Using br9eg plug
 
I've read a couple of comments here where folks chased carb prob's only to find their stator or CDI was faulty:
"...on my 2012 wr 300 the stator was replaced under warranty...and that improved starting" for instance.

Also is br9 the stock/recommended plug for Oz? Maybe a br8 would help and couldn't hurt I don't think.

Mine was starting hard cold, so I leaned out the PJ and NJ clip. Now it starts 1 kick with throttle the way a 2smoker should.

cheers
 
Others on here have said about the kick starter may need moving a spline forwards other than that I cannot offer much help.
Used mine today for the first time in 3 weeks, Turn fuel on - pull choke - one gentle kick through then a good hard boot and away it goes, Always the same and is never a issue to start hot or cold and no matter how long its left standing.
 
I wouldn't say that mine is a one kick wonder all the time, but it is reasonably easy to start.
 
Just been giving this a little more thought, My mate Trig cannot start my 165 when its hot let alone cold and I have even seen him kicking merry hell out of his 125 on occasions and you can start that thing with your hand so is it just a knack or the fact im just a big old fat knacker and its scared of me :lol:
Have you tried leaning the bike over on its side till fuel runs from the over flow when cold as I used to do this all the time on all my 2 strokes through the years and they always lit on the first kick as well.
 
Just sounds like it is not getting enough gas for it to start for some reason. Could be a weak spark. IDK but whenever I have had a starting issue it has always been a lean condition caused by something at the time.
 
My old bike always started with a kick or two - sometimes I need to this bike kick it 3 times sometimes 6 or more .
I had the RB designs carb on it and took it off and put back on the original carb . Same thing. Seems to be worse when its hotter .

(By the way it wasn't much of a difference- the standard 38mm carb probably better in the middle but that could have been the richer slide)

With choke on it doesn't help . I ve tried 30 and 35 pilots .
May try leaner again but I know it pulls stronger with the richer pilot and reduces any detonation I was getting . I also went from a 5 back to a 4 slide and it felt much better down low to mid - stronger .

I may try looking at kick start - but its not hard to kick
 
I watched the Dyno Tuner kick the snot out of our bike to no avail and after I put it in neutral, it started with a single kick. I believe there are a number of similar observations on the list and not quite sure as to why but I can attest it is accurate.
 
I found my float level @ 18mm and adjusted to @ 14mm. Mine was over flowing fuel @ 20 degree lean, but now @ 45 degree lean before it over flows.
Fine tuning today adjusted idle and AS to @ 1 1/4, adjusted the Rekluse and now it starts in gear too. Nice!
Also installed a new BR8 Iridium plug;)

Once you get your float level set, get it good and hot, set AS to stock and adjust idle and AS, ride it a little after each adjustment. Mine seems to like the idle screw out and the AS @ 1 1/4 instead of 1 1/2.

cheers
 
NCSteve said:
I found my float level @ 18mm and adjusted to @ 14mm. Mine was over flowing fuel @ 20 degree lean, but now @ 45 degree lean before it over flows.
Fine tuning today adjusted idle and AS to @ 1 1/4, adjusted the Rekluse and now it starts in gear too. Nice!
Also installed a new BR8 Iridium plug;)

Once you get your float level set, get it good and hot, set AS to stock and adjust idle and AS, ride it a little after each adjustment. Mine seems to like the idle screw out and the AS @ 1 1/4 instead of 1 1/2.

cheers
Click to expand...

What carb you talking here Float height should be more like 8mm

Mine was starting only in gear. Now its the opposite - will only start in neutral


flyingbob said:
Find a good cdi to test against. Just went through this not too long ago. One of those things...
Click to expand...

Yeh ? Did you fix issue ?

Any way you can suggest that i can test cdi?.
 
Took one out of my other bike. Don't know how to test one with instruments. I had replaced it with a KTM dual curve cdi and ruled it out too early. Plugged the other one in and back to normal.
 
rockdancer said:
What carb you talking here Float height should be more like 8mm

Mine was starting only in gear. Now its the opposite - will only start in neutral
Click to expand...

I'm talking about WR300 with a Mik TMX38. Just looked through the service manual and don't find a spec for float level! But have notes where @ 14mm is recommended. Also, carb shouldn't over flow fuel until lean angle is @ 45 degree.
 
No that's not correct dimension . Not even close
If you turn the carb upside down and lean it over approx 45 degrees. The float will be roughly parallel with the bowl
ITS PARALLEL ITS 4 TO 5MM
This may be a tad low
I am setting it at 6mm so it slightly above parallel

The old ( flat slide) tmx has a much higher float height
Maybe your carbs have been switched
Keihen is also much higher

NCSteve said:
I'm talking about WR300 with a Mik TMX38. Just looked through the service manual and don't find a spec for float level! But have notes where @ 14mm is recommended. Also, carb shouldn't over flow fuel until lean angle is @ 45 degree.
Click to expand...
 
So you're saying my 2012 will not have an "old tmx" and float height should be 6-8mm?
I adjusted from @ 18mm to 14mm when I rejetted.

rockdancer said:
No that's not correct dimension . Not even close
If you turn the carb upside down and lean it over approx 45 degrees. The float will be roughly level with bowl
That's the height around 6 to 8 mm

The old tmx is a much bigger and different float height
Click to expand...
 
I can't see how you could get float that high on a new tmx - it would be all the up or down depending on how you look at it

6mm seems to work best

Now I've adjusted that and. Giving it a big kick with nearly wide open throttle it starts much better
 
Starting issue was simple ---- a weak ignition spark caused by leaving the light switch on
Ducati = ducrappy

So dont leave lights on when starting with Ducati ignitions - same for 250/300s
will start but much harder


Having said that it is starting much easier most times with switch off but sometimes its still difficult so could still be an issue
 
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