• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Starter Soelnoid Testing

jxg

jxg

Husqvarna
AA Class
I have seen this in another thread, but I need to ask this question because I am electrically illiterate.

I am trying to determine why my fuel pump is not priming when I turn the key. I apply 12V directly to the pump, and it does run. when i turn the key, i get a click at the starter soelnoid (i have always had an issue with my starter, but this just started happening with the fuel pump). Anyway, I have tested all the fuses for continuity, and they are fine.
So here is my stupid electrical questions. I followed the manual for testing the soelnoid and I DO have continuity at terminals B - M. the manual then states:



Use a multimeter to establish

Meter scale setting: Ohm
Starter relay resistance. Standard: 3-6 .

Am I supposed to check that with the 12 V applied, or just checking for ohms? and where am I actually checking this, between terminals 1 and 2?
Solenoid.jpg
 
actually i think i may have answered my own question. i just put the meter between 1 and 2 (no voltage applied) and read 4.6, so now I assume my switch is good. now i need to look elsewhere, i guess...
 
I don't know about your machine but I don't think the fuel pump is powered through the starter solenoid. If the starter works the solenoid is good. The fuel pump is probably powered from the ignition. What machine are we talking about?
 
jxg said:
actually i think i may have answered my own question. i just put the meter between 1 and 2 (no voltage applied) and read 4.6, so now I assume my switch is good. now i need to look elsewhere, i guess...
Click to expand...

You are hearing the click when you turn the key? Or when you push the start button? Mine is a TXC, but it operates this way:

Flip the fuel pump switch. Fuel pump primes.
Press the start button. Starter relay activates and turns e-starter.

You do have a relay that controls the fuel pump. There are three black boxes on the right side of the subframe. One of them goes to the fuel pump. I'd pull those and check for continuity. Or just swap them around.

Now that being said, if you're having a starter problem, my starter relay (as depicted in the original post) went bad. It would click when you pressed the start button. However, it tested good. When swapped out with a spare from a KTM, though, the starter worked once again.
 
sorry its a '10 TE250. I thought that the starter relay did control the fuel pump too, so i guess that is part of the issue :-). But I could have sworn that I blew one of the fuses on that relay once, and the fuel pump did not prime. On the TE, usually just turning the key (as long as the red button is OUT), primes the pump. My starter has been fluky since i've owned the bike (1 1/2 years, bought used). The starter relay does just click right now. I will have to check the other 3, swap them around.
 
Does the starter turn if you apply 12V to it directly? If that is good and your battery is fresh, then your starter relay might very well be bad. Mine's a 2010 and it just went out in October. Maybe they are on a self destruct cycle. lol. In its defense, though, I had the one in my KTM go out as well. Both times I was lucky to have a spare and think I am going to add this part to my list of spares to keep for the bikes.
 
yes, 12v directly to the starter does spin it. i am going to order a new relay. been working a lot lately (and my daughter who lives out your way in Flagstaff is coming to visit), so haven't gotten out to the garage to check anything in a few days.
 
looks like its one of the relays on the right hand side (one of the 3 near the battery). 1st from the left is bad. when I plugged that connector into the 3rd one, pump fired right up. now I have to see if I can do without one of the other 2, or wait to ride until I get a new one (no dealer around here) shipped.

edit: i see they are for Pump, Lights and electric fan...

2nd Edit: Swapped out the relay for the fan for now. haven't started the bike in 3 months, fresh gas, let the pump run a couple of times, cranked over on about the 3rd kick!! Yippee.
 
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