• 2 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     WR = 2st Enduro & CR = 2st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

All 2st speedbleeders for 50mm zokes?

M

motosapiens

Husqvarna
A Class
It looks like the bleed holes might be too close to the wrench flats on the fork caps to use speed bleeders, but I couldn't find any discussion on the topic, so maybe there are some that work?
 
In my experince its best to use the std. screws, we always have someone coming in that knocked one of the quick bleeds off and squirted oil all over, leaving them unsure of oil level. bleed them before you ride (while the bike is cool) if you notice frequent build up of air the fork seals may be redy for changing they will start to suck a bit of air long before they will leak oil
 
I've got the Motion Pro M4X0.7 for KTM's on my 50mm zokes.
I will tell you that they do clear the wrench flats.
They do not however fit down in the recess where they belong.
They are only catching 3 or 4 threads before the base of the bleeder wedges in the cap. It's not going down far enough to compress the o-ring seal. So you may want to find some that are made for our forks if you decide to install them.

Drew any chance of you coming up with a lower profile bleeder?
I do agree with you, everytime I think about them I think how easy they can snap off and ruin a good day of riding.
My forks get very harsh after they warm up, untill I bleed them.
They've been like that since new, what would cause that.
I always assumed it was due to the 50mm forks having more leverage as pressure rises.
 

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I didn't like the extensions because they can break easier. I filed a flat on the button so that it cleared the cap nut. Mine are 45's. In this picture they don't hit but on my forks they hit.


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I agree with Drew. I wont sell them at my place. I know 2 guys who have broken them off and ruined a day of riding.
 
I went with these. Got 'em from Stealth. They're not speed bleeders,...you gotta unscrew 'em to bleed off air,...but they're solid stainless steel, not that thin flimsy brittle alloy.
 

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I have the STR style on my KTM and the anodized cap on it has gotten bent a little and I thought for sure we were going to destroy them during the last fork seal job. I like that Stealth one.
 
Hi Flyin!
How much time do you have on your bike? If the F.F. are feeling harsher through out yuor ride the seals may need replacement how long since last service, STD. F.F. oil or other? I need more info to answer your question. You can always give me a call.
 
They've never been serviced, they probably have less than 20 hrs of real riding.
If I bleed them before a ride they are fine for a little while then they start deflecting off of every thing. Then I'll bleed them again and they're good.
I've been wanting to reduce the oil volume, would this help?
 
I'm no Drew (NOWHERE CLOSE! LOL), but following the inner chamber bleed procedure along with a 5wt oil made a HUGE difference in mine.
 
andyman;82355 said:
I'm no Drew (NOWHERE CLOSE! LOL), but following the inner chamber bleed procedure along with a 5wt oil made a HUGE difference in mine.
Click to expand...

That's with stock springs? I'm curious as I had softer springs and 5wt oil put in my fork at the same time and it made a huge difference. Between me and a couple of riding buddies I lean towards thinking the oil made the biggest difference while they are of the mindset that oil weight doesn't change things that much and it's all about the springs. I have been tempted to go back to stock springs, or at least slightly stiffer springs and it sounds like that is working well for you.

Did it get rid of the jackhammer compression spiking feel?
 
Hi Flyin
I still suspect the quick bleeds they work like a valve with a very light spring keeping it closed may be sucking some air on quick rebound. Go back to the std screw and bleed before you ride (on stand wheels off the ground) dont bother to bleed again until the next day when temp returns to normal.
 
All the huskys i have had build air up too. New, old, 45mm, 50mm, does not seem to matter. Gets harsh and I know I need to bleed them.
 
Motosportz;82501 said:
Gets harsh and I know I need to bleed them.
Click to expand...
Yes, that's how i feel.

Drew, thats why I went for the speed bleeders.
I got tired of bothering my riding buds for a screwdriver.

Motosapiens, I'm sorry for hijacking your thread :cheers:
but we have a professional helping us out :notworthy:
 
Flyin;82539 said:
Motosapiens, I'm sorry for hijacking your thread :cheers:
but we have a professional helping us out :notworthy:
Click to expand...

no worries. this is exactly the info i'm looking for.

going without bleeders in idaho is a really inconvenient option since a normal ride has such large variations in altitude and temperature (as much as 50 degrees, as much as 5000', sometimes several times). I agree with Drew that they are a bit vulnerable, but i've had good luck with them so far (i turn the forks so as to protect the bleeders). I like LTR's recessed option, especially considering how little room there is to work with around the stock bleed hole. If i have him work on my forks at some point, i'll have him do that too. If not, i'll just send him my fork caps at some point when i don't need to ride that bike for a week.

otoh, i have seen folks get a cheap small phillips screwdriver and just ziptie the display gizmo to a control cable. then the screwdriver can snap in and out of its point-of-sale display piece and be easily accessible for a quick bleed at a rest stop. not as quick as pressing a button tho, and one of my riding pals did manage to drop one of his screws at the start line of a national enduro. he finally found it seconds before our number flipped. :eek:
 
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