So... I guess I'll start with a noob supermoto question.

[MotorCade]

Ok, besides being new to Husky, I'm new to sumos. I picked up a 2012 TE511, and I plan to do it all on this bike (except freeway). I'd like to be able to swap on the supermoto wheels for daily stuff and occasional track session, but have the dirt tires in reserve for the camping trips and such.

Freeway and big-bike off road are left to my pair of Cagiva/Ducati Elefants.

So here's the noob question - besides wheels and tires, what else do I need to convert over? I'm assuming a brake relocation bracket for the bigger front rotor, and a different size chain for the different gearing. Anything else? How can I make it easier to do swaps back and forth?

Any recommends for gearing on these bikes?

Cheers,

Cade

 

[R-J van Hulst]

standard brakes size would do already pretty OK with motar wheels its only the track situation you wish to have more breaking capacity.

you might consider a rear brake lever on your handle bars (again more required when you are on the track)

Robert-Jan

 

[Caiman]

You can compromise on gearing, eg push the rear axle to the end of the adjuster and run road gearing, then push it to the front stop to run offroad gearing, saves changing the chain, but is a compromise on gearing.

Brakes wise, the stock caliper and a bracket is fine for the street, but you'll cook it stopping repeatedly from speed on track. If you have more dollars than sense you could get a whole new motard oriented caliper/master/line and just swap the whole thing across when you swap the wheels :P

 

[K5PL5]

With some wheel sets you get the disc relocation bracket for the front brake to match the oversized disc mounted on the 17" wheel. I would recommend if youre just starting out and dont want to get too deep $ wise is go with the Warp 9 wheel set. Theyre pretty nice for the price.
When going that route you should do the following:
A front caliper pin and brake pad locater (little brass bale looking thing) from your Husky dealer. Mount those on your extra bracket. Brake caliper swaps will be quicker and easier.
Get yourself another chain with a master link to work with the shorter distance/smaller rear sprocket. 2 chains is much better and safer than 2 mast links with a short bit of chain to swap back and forth between setups.
Get a Zip Ty crankase breather because at high revs in supermoto mode, the motor will be pumpin a little bit of oil out of the breather. Its a fact of life with these models. Just deal with it and do the breather.
Make sure all of your bolts etc which do not require loc tite get a nice helping of anti-seize on them. You'll thank yourself later.
For race setups, a 16.5 front and 17" rear is optimal but obviously more costly and cuts down on your front tire selection. The rear width from racers Ive talked to is good with a 4" wide rim rather than the 3.25" that many street going motards run. This will prevent wider tires like a 160 or 165 from being squashed in on the sidewalls which will affect the angle of your grip surface and the overall shape of the tire profile.
On the subject of wider tires, I get a slight amount of chain rub with a 160 Michelin Pilot Pure race compound. Others may rub more or less, despite being listed as the same size.
If you get more serious, the suspension is def gonna need to be tuned. That goes for any kind of racing anyway.
Oh very important...! Change out the brake fluid with a high temp race brake fluid. Ive boiled up standard fluid and the front lever dropped to the grip. That was a scary moment.
Lastly, good luck avoiding tickets on the street in motard setup haha!
My wheezy little DRZ400SM I had 2 years ago got my in handcuffs at Deals Gap. Well...I guess I did that to myself haha.
Good luck with your TE and enjoy it.

 

[vetxracer]

With some wheel sets you get the disc relocation bracket for the front brake to match the oversized disc mounted on the 17" wheel. I would recommend if youre just starting out and dont want to get too deep $ wise is go with the Warp 9 wheel set. Theyre pretty nice for the price.
When going that route you should do the following:
A front caliper pin and brake pad locater (little brass bale looking thing) from your Husky dealer. Mount those on your extra bracket. Brake caliper swaps will be quicker and easier.
Get yourself another chain with a master link to work with the shorter distance/smaller rear sprocket. 2 chains is much better and safer than 2 mast links with a short bit of chain to swap back and forth between setups.
Get a Zip Ty crankase breather because at high revs in supermoto mode, the motor will be pumpin a little bit of oil out of the breather. Its a fact of life with these models. Just deal with it and do the breather.
Make sure all of your bolts etc which do not require loc tite get a nice helping of anti-seize on them. You'll thank yourself later.
For race setups, a 16.5 front and 17" rear is optimal but obviously more costly and cuts down on your front tire selection. The rear width from racers Ive talked to is good with a 4" wide rim rather than the 3.25" that many street going motards run. This will prevent wider tires like a 160 or 165 from being squashed in on the sidewalls which will affect the angle of your grip surface and the overall shape of the tire profile.
On the subject of wider tires, I get a slight amount of chain rub with a 160 Michelin Pilot Pure race compound. Others may rub more or less, despite being listed as the same size.
If you get more serious, the suspension is def gonna need to be tuned. That goes for any kind of racing anyway.
Oh very important...! Change out the brake fluid with a high temp race brake fluid. Ive boiled up standard fluid and the front lever dropped to the grip. That was a scary moment.
Lastly, good luck avoiding tickets on the street in motard setup haha!
My wheezy little DRZ400SM I had 2 years ago got my in handcuffs at Deals Gap. Well...I guess I did that to myself haha.
Good luck with your TE and enjoy it.

I have to agree about Warp 9 wheel set. With a 44 tooth sprocket the freeway isn't so bad. Was in Vegas for a week and everyday after work I hit the local sights (Hoover dam and bridge, Red Rock/Bonnie springs, Mt Charleston and more) with all rides being at east 20 or 30 miles to get to the location then rode around each place for hours. Bike worked great and no oil puke with the Zipty oil bypass. Can't wait for the can for worry free riding.

 

[vetxracer]

View attachment 33242View attachment 33243 I have to agree about Warp 9 wheel set. With a 44 tooth sprocket the freeway isn't so bad. Was in Vegas for a week and everyday after work I hit the local sights (Hoover dam and bridge, Red Rock/Bonnie springs, Mt Charleston and more) with all rides being at east 20 or 30 miles to get to the location then rode around each place for hours. Bike worked great and no oil puke with the Zipty oil bypass. Can't wait for the can for worry free riding.

Just plan on canyon riding at the most so I went minimal with stock rotor and a chain for proper wheel placement. Remove dirt wheels and chain and replace with street wheels and chain. Piece of cake. Man I love this bike. So much fun on street as well as dirt.

 

[Theo]

I'd like to be able to swap on the supermoto wheels for daily stuff and occasional track session

Oh very important...! Change out the brake fluid with a high temp race brake fluid. Ive boiled up standard fluid and the front lever dropped to the grip. That was a scary moment.

I agree: the first time I went to a track, I used this: http://www.linkint.com.au/motul_dot_4_brake_fluid.html (whose dry boiling boint is 245°C) and after two or three laps, including the warm up lap, I had front brake fading.
Then, I told the mechanic to put a high temp fluid into the brake and to bleed it well; he put this: http://www.motul.com/it/en/products/169 (dry boiling point: 325°C) and the problem vanished.

The rear width from racers Ive talked to is good with a 4" wide rim rather than the 3.25" that many street going motards run. This will prevent wider tires like a 160 or 165 from being squashed in on the sidewalls which will affect the angle of your grip surface and the overall shape of the tire profile.
On the subject of wider tires, I get a slight amount of chain rub with a 160 Michelin Pilot Pure race compound. Others may rub more or less, despite being listed as the same size.

Actually, this sounds odd to me: I knew that usually road motards have 4.25" rear rims (like mine) and that racers use 5" rims.
There are some solutions for chain rub. Sometimes a chain slider which prevents the chain from wiggling is enough:

If that's not enough, you could misalign the rim (I don't like that solution) or the front and the rear sprockets, but maybe that could cause leverage on the secondary shaft and I don't know whether it's possible to do it to the unusual 511 front sprocket.

 

[K5PL5]

You are correct. I was off by an inch. Damn. Maybe too many beers last night haha. Thanks for the correction. Dont wana give bad info.

 

[Theo]

Haha no problem: oversights occur

 

[mtne]

If you are going to swap back and forth consider getting a whole system to swap that includes a different (higher capacity) master cylinder. I have that and it allows me to swap everything and not have to worry about overheating the TE fluid system, gives the better stopping power of the SM calipers and no having to bleed anything. Also, when I take the unit off I just keep the master cylinder supported above the wheel and no air gets into the system.

 

[MotorCade]

Wow, a lot more to think about that I'd thought. I've got no problem running high temp brake fluid, I've got about a half-case of Motul hi-temp racing stuff on the shelves right now. I hate brake fade...

As for the rest, I think it makes sense to have the second chain, and the brake relocation bracket. Changing those out won't take but a couple more minutes.

Zipty oil catch can is already on order. My bike loves to spit oil everywhere.

 

[K5PL5]

Map 3 rocks by the way. I rode the other night for about 2 hours and not a single flameout, stall, etc. Shes in dirt mode right now.
Sumo-mode

 

[MotorCade]

Awesomeness. My bike is in map II. jumpered and stock exhaust. I've heard good things about FMF... I think it's the power core 4 that was best? Someone tell me if I'm wrong. How do I get into Map III? Is that the one that requires dealer reflash?

I put first mods on today (the Sicass ignition switch, zeta hand guards and Sicass led turn signal/barkbusters) and went for a ride up at the Divide OHV trail in Santa Barbara. Nothing too crazy, had my 8 year old son with me on his KLX110. Camino Cielo (the paved road to get up there) is pretty much the perfect supermoto road, as far as I can tell. It's tight and windy, mixed surfaces (super smooth and fast in places, and potholed nastiness in others) and oh yeah, it's right on the friggin top of the mountain with unbelievable views down both sides simultaneously. Don't slide off. Today, most of the ride was above the cloud layer over SB, with lower peaks poking through. As fun as it was with the dirt tires on, I can't wait to try that road with something grippy.

Cheers,

Cade

 

[K5PL5]

Zip Ty does the map 3. Gotta send it out to them. Check out their site.

 

[Coffee]

View attachment 33244 Just plan on canyon riding at the most so I went minimal with stock rotor and a chain for proper wheel placement. Remove dirt wheels and chain and replace with street wheels and chain. Piece of cake. Man I love this bike. So much fun on street as well as dirt.

I know nothing about super moto, but how does a picture of a bathtub fit in?

 

[vetxracer]

I know nothing about super moto, but how does a picture of a bathtub fit in?

Bonny Springs urinal. I've never seen one like it and wanted to share.

 

[Helgar]

the term map three is just a name for the ecu program loaded that replaces the current race map program it will still have the same notification on the lcd screen. My local dealer calls it the Akro map I guess because its the map they install when they sell you an Akropovic exhaust system I put the akro map, fmf power core 4, removed the o2 sensor and added my own oil reservoir bypass and when I run my offroad set up 13/51 sprockets and trials tire and super moto 15/40 sprockets I love my bike I can change from dirt to supermpoto in about 20 minutes

 

[Kyle Tarry]

I run 1 chain with both setups, you just need to beware the combinations. For dirt I run 14/45 (or 13/45 for the gnarly stuff), and I run 15/42 on the supermoto. I have to slide the wheel all the way forward on dirt and back for supermoto.

 

[Helgar]

I have been using 2 chains with mine since my super moto kit came with a chain but when I changed my dirt set up from stock to 13/51 I had to start using 3rd gear on a lot of the up hill double track I use to link single tracks together and it seems almost to high of a gear for me but I have gotten use to it but I might try 13/45 since I have a spare 45 tooth anyway and give it a go.