• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

smr449 - chain snapped and broke guide

G

gopie

Husqvarna
A Class
So I was riding along the other day and my chain randomly snapped. It lasted for almost 13k kms so didn't really owe me anything. However, after finally disentangling the chain from the frame, I realised that the chain guide had been damaged and the lower screw hole had snapped away from the case (see pics). Wondering if anyone can suggest the best way to reattach the broken part? Or is it fine to run the bike without the guide? cheers in advance for the help
20140528_165323.jpg 20140528_165314.jpg
 
sorry it broke. Could have been worse/ Could have been better.
I'd be nervous about not running a case saver at all. Some might say this would be the end result no matter what though.
my plan would be-
find a competent professional welder and repair to put things back to normal- looks possible from the parts and break.​
new DID VT2 xring chain.​
case saver made with Delrin- if they exist for the 449/511​
​
I lost my chain- 3 times in a year. Never had this happen: no damage- its luck. good or bad.
Every time it was the clip master link. This was becoming annoying and too frequent.
I went to a DID VT2 chain. No problems since, haven't thrown the chain and no signs of wear.
 
You not going to be able to weld that unless you completely disassemble the engine. Is there enough threads to put a longer bolt in and grab whats left in the case? If so get it really clean, put some JB weld on there and bolt it on. never going to be as strong as stock but it will at least still be there. Unfortunately might cause deeper damage the next time.

As for chains I had a master come off about a month ago. Buddy had one come off a week after. Now I read all this. I bought a SRT chain the other day (really nice stuff for the money) and it came with both the stake on link and master clip type. I ordered the tool to smash the rivets and am going to install the rivet link and eliminate this issue.
 
From the photos it appears that there is still quite a bit of threads remaining in both of engine case bolt holes. I'm not familiar with the 449 so curious if those are the original bolts - they seem rather short given the thread depth on those holes and I wonder if this would have happened at all if the bolts were longer and gone deepen into the case.

If it were me...
  • I would remove to two broken bolts
  • Temporarily put everything back together (including the broken upper and lower broken bits) by just holding it all with one hand.
  • Push a ty-wrap through each hole and note the length
  • Buy or cut two bolts to those lengths (less a few mm).
  • Thoroughly degrease and clean the effected parts and the area around the engine case
  • Glue the broken bits back to the engine case with J-B Weld using your new longer bolts to clamp everything down whilst the glue sets.
I would use the J-B Weld original formula as its the strongest (4K PSI Tensile Strength) and has the highest temperature tolerance (550F). Sets in 20-25 minutes, full cure 15-24 hours.

One note of caution: Before final assembly I would slather the new bolts down with anti-seize and try to avoid getting J-B Weld in the bolt holes. At the 15 and 45-minute mark I would slightly loosen and tighten the new bolts to ensure that they're not being permanently welded to your engine case! So long as you use lots of anti-seize this will not be an issue.

After cure you can remove everything, mix up some more J-B Weld and trowel it over the breaks to reinforce them further - using a Dremel to clean things up afterwards. However, I don't think this is step is necessary.

The steps above and new longer bolts will not only fix your bike, it will likely prevent this type of damage occurring again should you have another catastrophic chain failure.

As mentioned above, a DID VT2 would be an excellent replacement for the old chain. Best of luck on your repairs!
 
Just toss a new bolt in with a spacer to takeup the missing space and get a nice case saver/call it good. Next time dont be shy on replacing the chain. I replace my chains/sprockets everytime with the best money can buy because its scary as hell when stuff like this happens....I also change my oil and checkover the bike every couple rides.
 
I actually had the exact same thing happen on my TE 511, but with under 1000 km's on it. The answer from the shop was to use metal mate. He happily gave me a tube and sent me on my way. I wasn't particularly pleased at all. I'm just living with it currently until I figure out a better solution. Although i've put a top notch chain on replace the standard.

Just of note, my chain actually peeled open a link and separated. The connecting link was still intact. Smashed the chain guide too.
 
Of course, the factory te chain is the worst piece of crai chain I have ever seen. Tight sloppy loose tight sloppy loose tight too tight way too tight sloppy loose.....I put a 120$ red en chain with rivet link...set it and forget it!

Anyone reading this with a stock chain, junk it! Into the bin! Now!
 
Wow- I didn't mention it- But I am using a rivet master link (pressed) too (came with DID chain). Guess its getting more common.....
 
Even if you disassemble that, you cannot weld it. It's made out of some super crappy magnesium alloy from used Chinese imported Italian coffee cans. You can braze it though and that is good to 35,000 psi. And it can be brazed with only minor disassembly.
 
Thanks for the feedback everyone, much appreciated. I tried to use a chem-weld product (I forget who makes it) but it didnt work, after leaving it to set for 6 hrs it came off as soon as i started to thread the bolt. This was despite ensuring the area was clean and dry. Ive had to put the case saver back on using only the top bolt, I figure its got to be better than nothing. I also got a DID chain.

Tinken - what disassembly do you think would be required to braze the part back on?
 
I'd take off the stator cover and move the wires away. Sprocket removal and wrap with a damp cloth so you didn't over heat the seal. They are cheap heat sinks and you only have a small spot to heat here. A competent welder will be able to braze that in just a few minutes.
 
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